Avanti83
-
Posts
1,282 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Avanti83
-
-
Good question on the temperature with the original engine. My 83 355 SBC roller engine runs a steady 200 give or take on the gauge running in 90 deg temps with a 195 thermostat.
First, be sure that the temps are accurate. If so, is the radiator in good shape and the water pump circulating the cooling fluid? If that's ok, I start looking at the engine timing. One thing that can help under hood temps is wrapping the exhaust pipes with insulation but that shouldn't change engine temp. Lastly, be sure you don't have an air pocket in the system.
And yes, It's hot under there. Good luck, Bob
-
BRitz
That's not out of line for the work you are describing. A thought, the rear wing window gaskets have become unobtanium so if you purchase a complete Trim/Body gasket kit they will probably be missing. Be sure the body shop saves yours. It sounds like they are going to take all the finish off, which is correct, so they can do the body work you noted.
Secondly, I just finished two years of stripping, repairing and painting my 74, Be sure to ask the body shop how many fiberglass cars they have repainted. If they have a history of working with them, great. If not, see if you can get a quote from a local shop that does a lot of Corvettes, older body styles.
Lastly, the Go To parts guy for Avanti is Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Michigan. I know there are other competent vendors but Dan has most anything that's available and he will talk you through issues.
One last thought, again. There is a forum member, Brad, in the St Louis area that has done several high dollar restos on Avanti's. At that price point, it may be worth while to contact him about your needs. He would handle everything, although I might be putting words in his mouth. http://bezautoalchemy.com/
Bob
-
And a Harmonic Balancer change is also required by your definition of an engine change. You can't use the 350 heads on the 400 either, but those parts we are discussing are part of the engine and IMHO when you swap the "engine" those are parts that come with the engine. If the question was short block then I'll agree with you but that was not the question.
When Nate Altman changed the 400 to a 350 in my 74, one engine came out and another went in. No exchange of parts just what came with each engine. The T10 was removed from the one and bolted to the other so we'll need to agree to disagree on the correct answer to this one.
-
Yes, everything bolts to either one. Nate put a 350 in my 74 for the OP replacing the 400.
-
RQB3263...will be out of commission for the foreseeable future..It will be delivered to Steven Cade (local Stude/Avanti guru) in Gainesville Fl to have the glass removed in prep for interior and custom body and paint...BMW 330 gray leather seats and belt install is complete and interior will be gray vinyl....exterior will be "Diamond Blue metallic" same as original after mild customizing body work...I hope to have it back by Thanksgiving....is that too much to ask ??.....RQB3263 BILL
Bill
I guess it's hard to tell about schedules. It's best to watch the progress and see if it's tracking. My experience with the locals here is generally that they shoot for a target date but things get in the way and it drags on. I usually just show up occasionally and if it looks like progress is being made, I'm happy. Holding most of the independents to a hard schedule is usually bad Ju Ju.
Regular body shops usually deliver on time but around here the independents are usually slower. The pay back is usually nice work at reduced prices.
Just be done by February so I can see it.
Bob
-
2 - Choke issues
-
Thanks Bob, the picture might help a lot.
The part under the throwout fork mounts to the frame on one side. Do you recall where the other side (engine side) mounted?
On the top picture upper left just under the shifter is the engine side bracket for the bar. The bracket mounts IIRC on two engine to trans bolts and a bolt on the engine block around the oil filter. The ball mounts to the bracket about middle. you can see the hole for the ball mount just right of the shifter lever bottom arms. Bob
-
I sold my entire 1974 setup to another owner when I converted to a T56 with hydraulic clutch. These are a couple of the pictures of the parts if it helps any.
Bob
-
Ron
If you haven't found Bob Johnstone's site here is a link. He has documented about anything to repair/modify Studebakers and Avanti's of all eras. Here is a link, I use it quite a bit on my 74 and 83 Avanti's. http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechoct2014p1.html#DBRAKES
As Bruce said, the most popular Front Disc Brake setup is Jim Turners, the other one is Steeltek by Dave lavesque. I have Jim's on my 74 and Dave's on my 83. The rears are possibly a Caprice shoe and maybe a Chrysler drum but my memory fades. Dave is essentially out of the business but his website may remain on the great byte bucket in the sky. Tom sbca96 on this and the SDC website also makes adapters to adapt larger Mustang discs to Avanti's. He has a lot of pictures of his mods also.
For reference, I'm sweetolbob on the SDC website and have a fair amount of Avanti stuff there. The above info could keep you out of trouble for a while as there's a ton of info on those sites.
Bottom line, I'd scrap the setup you have and just use the Turner setup unless Tom has produced more brackets. Personally I don't see much worth saving on yours, brake wise, which is why my 74 has a new setup.
Bob
-
Sorry, I already got hold of Bill and the seats and rear bumper are headed to Maine. Sorry i missed the front bumper, still looking.
Ron, Check your forum PM's Bob
-
I have uploaded pictures a time or two, but it looks like Bob is a master. Perhaps he can give us both a lesson.
A lot of forums are really sensitive to picture size, possibly due to storage capability. I just use photobucket. It seems to download a lot of different size photos and when I post them on forums the size is usually what you see posted in this thread.
-
RQB3263....I called Wedge Engineering this afternoon ....no help....they only adapt "aftermarket" seats....so much for engineering...Ill fab my own ...adios RQB3263
Shots of Bill's installation. Looks good
Bob
-
Bill
If the front bumper is available, I'll take it. I left you my cell phone # to discuss details, Thanks. Bob
nine-eight-nine / three two seven / 3851
-
Just for the record, the deluxe Turner Kit is $660 with $48 added for shipping. The economy kit is $240 plus $13 shipping and included the adapters and shipping with some other miscellaneous parts. Judicious shopping could keep the total cost in the $500 or so range.
Bob
-
Depends on how much you want to use the originals. At $360 for the calipers and about $200/ea for the rotors you are arriving at the point a Turner brake system could make sense. http://www.turnerbrake.com/carkits.html
Another choice is SBCA96, Tom is a forum member. He builds brackets to adapt a larger Mustang setup to Avanti's. Search under his forum name, this post should give you a start. http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=345&hl=%2Bdisc+%2Bbrake+%2Bbracket
Both will give you a better setup than the originals and you'll be able to buy more modern parts from most Auto stores.
Bob
-
RQB3263........BOB THANKS FOR THE PICS HERE ......the more i measure the more it looks like I will fab my seat brackets to look much like yours...Cutting the hump out of the floor is still probably out of the q..(Ive been dreaming)....ill know more Monday when i get it stripped out and can take better measurements...but 4 pieces of 1/4 in. steel flat bar is beginning to make more sense for my installation....Ill call Wedge Engineering Monday but i doubt the will have anything i cant make ....keep in touch ...rqb3263 ....bill
Removing the hump will probably take a lot of rigidity out of the floor. A 1/4 in plate should put some/all of that back but I don't know. I'll assume that the BMW seat belt mounts to the inner side of the seat, if so I'd use a more substantial mount than the OEM mounting at the rear of the seat. It's a small 3"? square bonded under the floor which isn't that thick to start with.
There is a mounting hole for the OEM seat belt that threads into the X-member portion of the frame. My guess is it's a lot more substantial that the seat mount. I'm going to use it to mount the rear inner side of my seats, the side with the belt attached.
I'll help further if I can but my seats are in the mockup mode also as I'm fully engaged in final sanding and painting the exterior of the car. I'll polish off the mounts after that. Post a few shots as you progress for the forum.
Bob
-
I'm reaching here a bit my 73 radiator leaks and before I take it to radiator shop, I have a radiator form a "67 Pontiac GTO 400 with Turbo 400, could this be fitted?? As I said I'm reaching. Thanks, Dave
If you own a welder, metal brake, a gallon of fiberglass resin and cloth then anything will fit. Realistically, it's hard to make the radiator opening a different size so I'd do what Warren suggests and sell the radiator to GTO guy.
Stopleak works usually but the problem you are trying to solve is a weak radiator and they usually don't get better with age. You'll just keep following the problem around and then the whole thing will dump the radiator contents on a remote highway just outside of cell phone service ruining the head gasket and possibly worse.
Unless you have an aversion to aluminum, you can replace yours for under $250 and never need to worry about it again.
and it's a lot easier than adapting something that doesn't fit.
Speedway sells a radiator of the correct size for $129 and your local shop can TIG the correct brackets on for probably $100. You'll need to find a different lower hose but we can help with that.
BTW,. Welcome, Bob
-
Ron
G6? If that's a question they are from a Pontiac G6 in leather. As far as the Vette seats, it all depends on the mounting. The mount I built just uses the original front bolts and extends the rear mounts further back. It let's me use the OEM seat belt mount that is part of the cross member and much stronger than the original location. Because my front mounts were cr@p I installed a bar across the inside of the front rise and added a nut welded to the rear to house both bolts. Hopefully it's much stronger than the original.
In reality, it looks like a bit of work but it's just an upgrade of what's there and not all that invasive unless one want's to adhere to the original mounts.
Most anything would be better than the 74's original seats although the seats in the 83 are much better that the 74 and they will stay as is.
Bob
-
Depends on the definition of reasonable but there's no way my 72 YO 6'3" frame is going to set in those early Avanti seats.
Let cogitate for a minute. These are the G6 seats going into my 74.
This is the side view of the mounting frame mocked up, it needs a lot more work to be pretty/pretty but this is what it looks like. Instead of going directly back from the floor hump at an angle, one could just drop the frame down on the back side of the hump and be near the floor again.
This the top view and you can see the location of the front mounting hole which is well back from the mounting hump.
While my mount is directly over the front to back raised section of the floor, there is no reason the mount couldn't be made more narrow to clear the hump and a tab added to bolt the seat track too.
I not only will have a more comfortable six way power seat but heated too.
Good luck, Bob
-
There's nothing to keep you from doing it although I'll bet it adds some strength to the floor. As an alternative, why not just remove the portions you need for the installation and bridge the opening with a steel plate to mount the seat. Otherwise, I'd probably use 3/16" or heavier plate under the fiberglass floor and re-glass the floor section that was removed for strength. Bob
-
RQB3263...Please look at the pic in the registry page ....can anyone tell me what the paint color is ...the tag is missing from the glove box....and the car has been re-painted...??...I call it "Ice blue"....but...and the carpet kit is $800+ not include the trunk......custom mats are another $175 approx.....from Auto Mat Industries 516-938-7373.......RQB3263....BILL
Don't know jack about them but they are a lot less than $800. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARPET-STUDEBAKER-AVANTI-AVANTI-2-SAVE-UP-TO-160-/271366489166?hash=item3f2eb4044e&vxp=mtr and if they don't work, how about these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STUDEBAKER-AVANTI-1965-1985-BLACK-LOOP-15-PC-CARPET-KIT-with-20-oz-padding-/400609708288?hash=item5d46330900&vxp=mtr
-
As others have asked, what do you mean by overheating? At idle, or road speed and the indicated temperature. My 83 has a fairly strong 355 and it runs all day about 190 -200 on the gauge, 190 thermostat and temps as high as 95. It has a SS flex fan in the shroud for cooling.
Do the fans work?
It could also be a bubble of air in the new engines cooling system, one thing that can help is to drill about a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange to let the air bleed out.
You may want to replace the thermostat.
BUT!!!! If it's a 400, be sure they used the correct head gaskets. The 400 needs to bleed off the steam created by enlarging the bore and the correct head gaskets have the holes to allow that to happen.
Bob
-
83's came with the 700R4 from the factory. I don't see any evidence of modifications. Bob
-
RQB3263...1981 Avanti II...I installed 2007-2009 Mustang aluminum wheels 16x7 inch ...They look great but required 1 1/4 inch spacer/adapter to Ford 4.5 inch bolt spacing.. in front and ! inch in rear...they are relative cheap and plentiful at salvage yard or ebay...about 80$ each....rqb3263 BILL
I like them, they set nicely in the wheel wells. What tire dimensions are you running? Bob
New Magnum 500 wheels rubbing upper steering arm
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
Take a few washers and determine the minimum thickness needed to eliminate the interference. You can buy spacers from 1/8" and up. It took 1/8" to space the 2000 Mustang Bullitt wheels on the front my 74. The rear was fine. Be sure to pay attention to your stud length. Usually more than 1/4" will require longer studs unless you go to the thicker ones like Bill did that, I'll assume, mounted using the original studs but had a second set of studs for mounting the wheels.
Bob