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Sorry, but I must once again disagree…. Auto paint camera technology is indeed amazing… however, the accuracy of these scanners is, in all honesty, only ‘decent’. And ‘Avanti Turquoise’ is far from easy to match… Did you know that from day one there were at least TWO entirely different shades of ‘Avanti Turquoise’?……. The DuPont (Axalta) color was quite different from the Ditzler (PPG) color… both based on the same Studebaker factory (P-6332) paint code!

Yep…. ‘63 & ‘83 radio faceplate are basically same item.

Can’t help you on your first question… As far as the radio goes, I purchased a Custom Autosound AM-FM stereo for my ‘83 Avanti ‘everyday driver’ a few years ago which I have been very happy with… I called the company and told them it was going in a ‘63 (which they had a pattern for… same dash as ‘83) It fit perfectly .. no cutting… and yes, there is definitely room for a dash speaker above radio. (on my ‘83 I kept the two kick panel and the two rear shelf speakers.) And ask all the questions you want!!

The suppliers you’ve mentioned would no doubt supply you with a quality product… However, to me anyway, getting the ORIGINAL brake booster back, properly overhauled, means ‘drop in’, ‘connect up’ and GO…. without possibly having to source new fittings, hose adapters, etc. (Don’t ask me how I know!!)

I accept your apology…….. Also, until Mr. Hull determines if 54 is the accurate count or not, do not use the word “misinformation”.

In my opinion real wire wheels complement an Avanti like no other type of wheel can…. Really classy!!

Misinformation?…. Re-read the answer choices which I posted

I don’t think working the clutch pedal would cause any movement of the engine/trans, no matter how ‘tired’ the engine mounts were. (unless maybe if you were using an EXTREMELY strong pressure plate, but even then I doubt it) Also, there is so much ‘wiggle room’ between the frame release shaft bracket and the clutch housing that any forward movement of the engine/trans wouldn’t effect that welded on frame bracket. It’s the strain on that bracket from you pushing the clutch pedal down that sometimes causes it to fail.

And that is exactly how a “two hour” spot & blend can sometimes turn into a complete refinish job!

(Square light)… top dead center gap between chrome outer rim and fiberglass body… 3/16” Gap between middle of chrome outer rim (next to Avanti logo) and fiberglass body …1/4”

To me, there are three main reasons for making this battery modification….. 1) Taking weight off the front end of an Avanti, and placing it in the trunk…..improving weight distribution 2) Removing the stress of supporting a very heavy battery from a rather fragile and breakable fiberglass inner fender skirt 3) Leaving an obsolete and cumbersome 3EE battery with the John Deere folks, and moving to a much more common (and in my opinion more reliable) Group 24 style

I know what you mean… I haven’t completely trusted ‘Turning Wheels’ since the powers that be changed the beautiful old Studebaker script SDC Wheel emblem to that ‘modern’ (??) abomination!

On my own vehicles I always had a bit more paint mixed than I thought would be needed for the job….That way possible future ‘spot’ repairs could be performed with the exact color on the car…. This philosophy has paid off for me over the years!

It’s neither here nor there… but for Studebaker to have to change over a ‘near bulletproof’ clutch release system, as found on, for example, a ‘63 G.T. Hawk, to a ‘complicated mousetrap’, as the Stude suspended clutch pedal system really is, was too bad…. I realize, of course, that the ‘thru the floor’ clutch pedal was considered ancient history and VERY dated by 1961!

Relay located under hood beside voltage regulator

I would love to have been a ‘fly on the wall’ watching THAT conversion!!

The type of shifter to be used would have a lot to do with effort and feel… A Hurst shifter is much superior to the factory Ansen type…… Certainly a for speed manual is more ‘sporty’, however, the stock Avanti Powershift is really an excellent transmission… and I hate to say this.. but I think that us Avanti owners over 70 would probably be happier without having to deal with a clutch pedal!

Some colors are much more forgiving as far as blending paint goes than others… ‘Avanti Turquoise’, which the subject car is, can be a ‘toughy!

Good move!… The ventilated discs and the modern sliding calipers with larger pads are all DEFINITE improvements.

Probably the biggest culprit is the adjustable clutch push rod which connects the clutch linkage bellcrank to the clutch operating shaft… proven to be too weak and actually bendable under compression when in regular use… even with a ‘normal’ pressure plate.. Another Achilles Heel is the clutch operating shaft’s outer support bracket, which is welded to the frame side rail…. That part has been known to weaken over time and tear off of the frame. (sometimes weld fails) This failure has shown up with normal and high performance pressure plates….. Not unique to the suspended system, but sometimes showing up in all Studebaker clutch release systems are the pressed on release fingers, which are located on the release shaft and press against the release bearing, loosening and rotating out of position… These two release fingers should ALWAYS be electric welded to the release shaft whenever a clutch job is done on these cars. (as a bulletproof supplement to the factory press fit)

Wow!… Owned since new! I’ll bet you have some interesting Studebaker dealership stories you could share? I also like the mirrors mounted on the doors… although I must admit that on my own ‘63 they are up on the fenders, where they were when I purchased the car thirty years ago….. (still trying to grow those four foot arms!!)

I can tell you that when Studebaker went to a suspended clutch pedal, beginning with their 1961 Lark models, it wasn’t a great system… it unfortunately has a few weak points which have shown up over the years….. I’d go with the lighter spring pressure plate if you don’t plan on drag racing… The clutch linkage in your Avanti will thank you and your left leg will thank you!! Good luck!

Easy to say “a two hour fix” however, as a former auto body shop technician & manager, I know how fussy folks can be about even the smallest details… and this askew Avanti nameplate IS NOT a small detail to a collector car owner… You should be able to comprehend that…. I’ve seen minor spot repair jobs on vehicles sometimes turn into complete repaints due to color variations that even an expert auto painter, who has mastered the art of tinting & blending, can’t overcome…. So please do not write off the work it would take to correct this nameplate error as a simple two hour job…. because you never know!….Thank you my friend!

I believe that the lower crossbar on the shocks Dave Thibeault sells to fit ‘57 - ‘ 66 Studes have the correct ‘spread’.

I hear you… however, removing the original flange/rubber from old shock for a re- install into the new shock is easier said than done. (but not impossible!)