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mfg

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Everything posted by mfg

  1. The alternator looks to be rebuilt… Trouble could be in the voltage regulator.
  2. Good thought!
  3. That’s odd!…. It’s usually the driver’s side that runs ‘hotter’ due to the heat riser valve, located in the exhaust system directly under the passenger side exhaust manifold, diverting exhaust through the intake manifold and into the driver’s side exhaust manifold. This would remain true until the valve fully opens and then the exhaust temps basically equalize. Did someone install the heat riser valve on the wrong side? Short of that, there must be a restriction of some sort somewhere in the driver’s side of the exhaust system.
  4. mfg

    Black Paxton!

    I believe that black is what Studebaker engineers originally had in mind for the superchargers… however, since the blower is the ‘star’ of the engine compartment, they decided orange stood out much better. (and I agree with that!)
  5. Very odd upper radiator hose set up…. The plate you were asking about must be there just to support the upper hose. If it was my car, I’d make some changes there. (Looks like a lot of $$$ was spent on your Avanti by the prior owner!)
  6. That makes two of us!!
  7. I noticed in the latest issue of AVANTI MAGAZINE (213) that the Paxton supercharger on 63R1001 (first production Studebaker Avanti) was refinished in the color black….. I’m certain that the restorers of this particular Avanti were striving for authenticity, and I found that interesting.
  8. mfg

    Avanti Magazine!

    Hopefully soon! I mentioned this because a ‘follow up’ story about the Due Cento (hopefully with more pics!) was mentioned in the last AVANTI MAGAZINE (Issue 212)…. Perhaps next issue?
  9. mfg

    R3 vs.R4

    I would think that a 1955 Studebaker Commander super-short stroke 224 CI V8 engine would be a good starting point for an 8,000 RPM Stude engine… with some expectation of reliability!
  10. mfg

    Avanti Magazine!

    Yes, Issue 213….. winter/spring 2026
  11. Your flyer must have been printed between the time ‘Avanti Black’ was discontinued and replaced with ‘Avanti Grey’….. and before ‘Avanti Black’ was offered again as an extra cost option. PS…. Your black Avanti is a nice ‘stable mate’ with your all black ‘51 Commander!….Ed
  12. Beautiful Avanti….Enjoy!
  13. Received the latest issue of ‘AVANTI MAGAZINE’…. Great reading, as usual, however I was a bit disappointed in not seeing the follow up story about the ‘Due Cento’ Studebaker Avanti…. Perhaps next issue?
  14. You got it! (actually, the factory bulletin stated this may happen at any engine speed over 1500 RPM.)
  15. One thing I forgot to mention while we’re on this subject….I’ve had good luck with the factory Stude Avanti R1&R2 automatic choke system…HOWEVER!… There are two adjustments that need to be made at the plastic choke cover… a summer adjustment and then a winter adjustment…. (At least for those of us living in hot/cold climates) My ‘63 R2 works best with the choke cover rotated to the ‘three lean’ position for winter operation… and then to the index mark or one rich for summer start up….. of course, all engines/carbs behave slightly different… but my Avanti seems to run best using those settings!
  16. Suggestion… don’t remove/alter any of that original wiring… just tie it back using wire ties….. Unless you are going to ‘show’ your Avanti and do it for esthetics, I believe you’re better off leaving it all intact…. Just unplug and remove the electronic control module….and either manually (or through the use of the many aftermarket kits available) activate your lockup torque converter. I did the above when eliminating electronic engine controls on my own ‘83 Avanti, which I use for everyday transportation, many years ago… and have had no problems whatsoever! (also…remove the fuse at fuse box sending power to the ECM…. and, of course, you will need a non electronic controlled distributor and carburetor)
  17. Wow!!!… Really, really nice !!!!!
  18. I installed that same Ford type power steering pump cover on my ‘63.. Very convenient! You’re probably thinking of updating to a dual brake master cylinder?
  19. mfg

    Avanti Chokes!

    Exactly Correct!!
  20. Hi Paul… someone more knowledgeable may chime in on this, but in my opinion ‘Avanti Black’ was a legitimate option from the ‘get go’…. only to be discontinued, and then brought back as an extra cost option. If you’re asking what was the serial # of the first production Stude Avanti painted black… I haven’t a clue! Paul S, by the way, owns a gorgeous ‘Avanti Black’ ‘63 Avanti R1
  21. Studebaker engineers identified an occasional ‘flat spot’ when throttle pedal was floored on some of the supercharged (only) Avanti engines at engine speeds above …..?…… RPM. 1) 900……2) 1500……3) 2000….or….. 4) 2500
  22. Carburetor choke thermostatic springs & housings are not the same on R1 and the R2 Studebaker Avanti engines…..True?
  23. I would add that the evaluation of this poster’s choke problem, and my thoughts on how to properly correct that problem, are based on the assumption that the carb itself is in good adjustable condition…… If the carb is ‘worn out’ (sixty+ years old!), and the throttle shafts are loose in their bores, etc., it would be better, in my opinion, to ship the carb to a qualified rebuilder… or, go the modern Edelbrock route.
  24. As most of us Stude Avanti (and early Avanti ll) owners already know, many of the Carter AFB carbs on these cars have been ‘tinkered’ with over the years. That fact is why some owners replace these factory carbs with new production Edelbrock versions… and call it good. However, for those of us who prefer to keep the original carb on our Avanti’s, it’s a good idea to obtain a relevant shop manual, and adjust that carb back to spec… Pay careful attention to the side linkage rods, as some folks tend to bend them when attempting to make adjustments, throwing everything off. In colder climates, make sure you have an exhaust heat riser valve in place and working… and that the proper intake manifold gaskets are installed…. Also, internal vacuum passage in these AFB’s must be open for heat to be drawn up into the choke housing.. normally happening rather quickly.
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