mfg

Looks to be quite a project in both time & $$$$$$…. However, if you decide to purchase this Avanti, starting with a factory R2 four speed car is definitely the way to go!… Best of luck…. Ed

Well, one thing in your favor (assuming the R2 engine is still with the car), is that it would have the correct lower compression cylinder heads, which are fairly scarce these days!

The Avanti Register on the internet gives a good account of surviving Avantis of all model years… however… I would think that there are MANY more unreported ones here and there in various conditions.

Whew!….I’m exhausted just thinking about all that work… Sherwood Egbert and Raymond Loewy would have been very proud of you! Hopefully, we will see photos of the eventual finished product!

Interesting Stude decided to make that 1563110 pulley out of aluminum… I imagine the excessive weight of that original cast iron pulley had something to do with it… That custom pulley I got from Thibeault weighs about 1/3 the weight of the iron part.

I see…. I thought the aluminum water pump pulley was part of the A/C setup from the get go… Now I understand that it was introduced later on…Thanks!

A lot of work but ultimately we’ll worth it I think! There’s something very special, after the fact, to know that you did it yourself!!

Above is a good description of the inner workings & differences between standard and Avanti specific Stude V8 water pumps. I’d mention that the fact an Avanti R1-R2 water pump pulley is made of cast iron always bothered me…TOO MUCH WEIGHT!! Years ago I installed an aftermarket aluminum pulley I obtained from Dave Thibeault…. I don’t really know if the water pump on my R2 ‘cares’ either way, but I sure feel better about it!!! Studebaker engineers may have been thinking about this, as I believe they made the factory water pump pulley for an Avanti R1 (with A/C) out of aluminum.

Wow! … you have about 4 1/2 weeks.. Any chance of getting some assistance?

Skip … I think you meant to put this info into ‘65-‘83 Avanti section… SBC into ‘63 Avanti.

EXACTLY!!….For whatever reason Studebaker installed early ‘59-‘61 leaf springs in the ‘63 Lark ‘Standard’…. This spring has a 20” front ‘leg’….. The’ ‘64 Commander utilized a leaf spring with a 20 1/2” front leg… Which accounts for a slightly longer wheelbase….. This 1/2” change improves down force or ‘planting’ of the rear tires… thereby improving traction and acceleration times.

I agree with psdenno… and I’d like to add that to some folks, a Stude Avanti with ‘dead straight’ body panels might be considered ‘over restored’ !!

Everything you mention would indeed aid acceleration/handling, however, consider all those things to be the same between these two Studebaker models. BIG HINT!!….. wheelbase

I understand.. a person would REALLY have to know the Lark type chassis layout inside out to get this one…. I myself learned this basic difference “ the hard way”!!

You’re on the right track with your #2 guess! Now…. what would be different between the two’s suspension? PS… Not that it matters, but let’s call it a 1/4 mile drag race!

Sorry no…… Weight being equal is mentioned in the question.

Assuming the same engine, (R2?), transmission, tires, rear end ratio, driver, weight, etc…. Why would a ‘63 Studebaker Lark Standard 2 dr sedan have an advantage in an acceleration contest over a ‘64 Studebaker Commander 2 dr sedan?

I would think that even the 6 cyl models would be close if not same!

What you’re looking for isn’t exclusively Avanti ll…. ‘65-‘66 Canadian Lark types with Chevy engine and standard shift would have same setup.

Made production easier.

Your Avanti ll has to be one of the nicest around!…..With spring around the corner it’s a good time of year to sell…Best of luck with the sale! PS… Love that steering wheel!!

Yes… All Stude Avanti frames have that.

One sort of pain in the neck thing that has to be done is removing engine oil pan, oil pump, and rear main bearing cap & rear seal in order to swap the short torque converter mounting bolts for the longer stick shift flywheel mounting bolts… a MUST DO!….. Also…I think it’s much easier to remove the engine/transmission as a unit, and do most of the conversion work in the open, as opposed to working under the car…. Good luck!..Ed

If Myers can’t help, contact Dave Thibeault at Studebaker Parts & Services… He can provide every last nut & bolt for the transmission conversion you desire.