mfg

I’ve removed regular exhaust manifolds from above without too much trouble… Easier on right side… I’d guess the headers would be about the same amount of work… Loosening the exhaust pipe-to-manifold nuts can be a challenge though!

Awesome!

I still like the Gillig bus magnetic hood locks….. Very crafty!!!

If you feel the source of fuel leak is concealed, I’d pull out the rear seat and fiberglass back plate to reveal fuel tank and it’s connections.

To be honest with you Dwight, I think the exposed carb on the R2’s actually look better than sealed in a box… however the ‘boxed’ carb is considerably safer!

I’ve always thought that Studebaker should have equipped all their R2 equipped vehicles with a carb pressure box (as all ‘57-‘58 Golden Hawks were equipped) Although current owners carefully maintain the factory pressurized carb, back in the day, when many used these vehicles for everyday transportation and hoods weren’t lifted very often, gasoline leaks were somewhat common!

The check engine light comes on after you turn the engine off … keys out of ignition switch?

I think I’d put two extra screws to hold rear cover in place, soak actual screws in paint stripper to clean them down to bare steel… then hit them with a self etching primer for good adhesion … then spray them silver and install on freshly painted supercharger…. Nice detail!

Dwight, if you’re referring to the screws which retain the rear scroll cover to the scroll housing, they were definitely painted, along with the rest of the blower, as a complete assembly… however, leaving them unpainted or cad plated sure looks nice!!

By the way the motors will run a minute or two before the breaker trips is good… it indicates there is no ‘dead short’ in the wiring…. As I said previously, before you start throwing money & time at this problem.. lube the motors.

I’d guess motors need lube.

My ‘83 is like that…. on not so often used passenger side.

Pinion seal generic part # National 5778 Available any local parts store under $20. PS …. I hear you…. It’s wonderful to have a dedicated Avanti parts supplier…. But $80 for a radio knob??????

I know very little about those late model Avanti’s, but I would imagine very few parts specific to the Avanti body were stock piled….. and if a few were stock piled, who is holding them at this point? Problems such as this can be a real challenge when you own a very limited production car……. Too bad they made a stressed part like that out of fiberglass or plastic, and I agree replacing it is probably going to be a custom job……. Good luck.

Ha ha… I’ll have to remember that one!

Factory wheel covers can still become frisbees…. (don’t ask how I know!!)

6’ Advanced from TDC. PS…. Go with true dual exhaust, but avoid the headers… too many negatives to make them worthwhile!

Hardly a “major mistake” Dwight! The supercharger on my fairly early ‘63 is painted Orange… and it looks nice…. however, if I was an authenticity nut it would be painted black!

Orange definitely ‘shows’ better under the hood… but for my money black is definitely correct, at least for an early Studebaker Avanti like yours!

Try a dab of silicone caulking on every fourth tab and slam the covers on… Don’t drive car for several hours until silicone sets up…. This has worked for me for years… Wheel covers still can be removed when necessary… then just pull off old silicone residue and re apply.

Yes…..Exactly!

Saw the car… very solid for a Northeast Studebaker… however, not maintained for those 45+ years and in need of bumper to bumper restoration… Expensive car to restore! Great project for the right hobbyist, however, that’s not me!

Now THAT’S interesting!

Fascinating thread.

SDC forum administrator still saying… ”WE WILL BE RETURN SHORTLY!!!