mfg

I’d go easy when doing this .. but it’s the bracket itself taking the strain... You don’t want the bumper too close to body, as shown in photo, as a possible side impact will mean certain fiberglass damage….. Also, those bumper sides come in fairly easy when tightening the side bolts… just go slowly… Trying to straighten the bumper off the car can be done, however that’s unfortunately a good way to crack the chrome plate.

You thought CORRECT!

There’s a 1/4” rubber shim that fits in between the bumper and the fiberglass body which will fill some of that gap. The gap on your Avanti does look excessive. I’d add a second rubber shim, then tighten the bolt to crank it in.

Studebaker recommended replacing the disc brake pads on their 1963 and 1964 passenger cars equipped with Bendix disc brakes when the pad thickness wore down to……?……. 1) 3/16”…..2) 1/4”…..3) 5/16”…..or…..4) 3/8”

I have no documentation to support this, but I recall seeing early round light Studebaker Avanti‘s with a gold ‘S’ on the hood, and silver ‘S’s’ on the cars earmuffs!

Mopar ‘B’ body….. A 1969 Dodge Charger for example.

Bought mine from our old friend Dave Thibeault…Always on top of Avanti specific items!

The heat/defrost diverter is inside the heater box itself.

That was the claim!!

I remember Lou Carini. (the fellow that wrote the above article on Avanti mirror repair) Lou was a real ‘spark plug’ for the (then) Mass-RI Chapter of SDC (now called Ocean Bay Chapter) Lou was very proud of his beautiful Studebaker Avanti, which he had installed real wire wheels and ‘Vogue type’ tires on. Lou’s sadly missed!

Reproduction Avanti Stratoview mirrors are notorious for this problem… The mirror head itself is very heavy, and there is no easy way to correct the looseness without removing the mirror glass…. and even with the glass removed, there may not be a really permanent way to tighten up the ball stud.

Good thought… but not today’s answer!

The 1963 Studebaker Avanti built in roll bar was considered, at that time, to be…..?…. stronger than the minimum requirement set by USAC for roll bars. 1) 75%……2) 140%……3) 175%…..or……4) 200%

Great car … with an excellent description!

I’ve about ‘had it’ with hydraulic brake light switches! Around four months ago the hydraulic switch quit in my Speedster… The guy behind me in traffic was good enough to stop me and let me know that I didn’t have brake lights… Bad switch!……Today, I took my ‘63 Avanti in for an inspection sticker… and once again had no stop lights due to a failed hydraulic switch…... I replaced the hydraulic switches in both cars… however, if this happens again, I’m going with a modern mechanical brake light switch, as used in later Avantis and many other cars.

A bit odd those mounting bolts don’t slide right out…. And no, a press isn’t needed to change the starter bendix.

I’d call Dave Thibeault… Be assured he will sell you the correct part… Tel# 978 897 3158

That’s odd… on my ‘83 (RQB3655), the fuel outlet is bottom dead center of the fuel tank… exactly like earlier Avantis .., There is also a factory drain plug in the fuel line located approximately under center of passenger door.

Perfect!

Good for you and your son… And your Avanti looks great… Just be sure that the brakes feel OK!

I always use them with no problems…Thr correct install is shown in your second photo. I tighten the pal nuts by feel… Once they rub against rod nut I give them about another 1/3 turn.

ANSWER… ‘Model C’ !

ANSWER….Prestolite!

I thought the lines looked too big for it to be an electric fuel pump.

Avanti side glass can be a challenge… Worse yet if the doors themselves are slightly misaligned, worn hinges, etc.