mfg

Nope Mel… has to come apart… but that isn’t too difficult if you place it face down on table and carefully pry the crimped down outer chromed retainer up…. Then the retainer, seal, and glass can be removed.

I’m convinced… pedal location is FINE!!

Yes… that was the magazine road testers results!

With the A/C off and in good tune ( and, as you say, a light foot) I would have guessed that… however, the magazine road testers said different!

According to a (then) major auto magazine, a new Studebaker Avanti equipped with R1 engine, auto trans, p/s, and air conditioning…..In ‘normal’ driving, averaged …..?….. miles per gallon of gasoline. 1) 10-12…..2) 13-16…...3) 15-18…..or…..4) 17-22

I’d guess minor door striker, hood latch and deck lid adjustments were done on Avantis during production… but as we all know it’s impossible to bend/twist fiberglass parts the way metal items can be ‘tweaked’.

Yes… I’ve driven a few stick shift Lark types with suspended pedals and haven’t ever felt the clutch/brake pedals were in an awkward position…. I believe the driver’s height, weight, and seat position have a lot to do with this issue…….Also, period Studebaker steering wheels, on models other than the Avanti, were somewhat large in diameter.

Just an awesome historic vehicle!!! And YES Nels….. Mr Carroll felt the pedals were too far to the left of steering column for his comfort….… May I ask… do you notice that as you drive your Daytona?

Ha ha….. Yes!

That’s what the man said!!

Ha ha Ho ho!!!!!!!

Perhaps… but not answer I was looking for… Allow me to ‘tweak’ question….. “Interior driving comfort”

You are ‘spot on’!

Andy Granatelli once stated that a ‘64 Studebaker Daytona (Super Lark) R3 convertible “Handles like a …..?…..”. 1) Corvette…..2) Jaguar…..3) Ferrari….. or…..4) Greyhound Bus

Fitting & adjusting of the doors, hood, and deck lid of Studebaker Avanti bodies assembled in Ohio was done at the MFG plant…… True?

During Bill Carroll’s road test of a 1964 R3 powered Stude Daytona convertible in January of 1964, he complained of being somewhat uncomfortable driving the car….. What was the source of Mr. Carroll’s complaint?

And those wheels!!!!!!!!!!!

That color… That interior…That engine…. WOW!!!!!!!!!!! X2 !!!!!!!!!

As an aside… 400 CI small block Chevy engines are becoming quite valuable, with some folks considering the two bolt main cap version of the engine superior in strength to the four bolt version.

Your ‘91 Avanti Convertible was really never meant to be a ‘fast’ car… An LS swap would, in my opinion, increase the value of your car… but you’ll spend quite a bit doing it, and the huge increase in power may cause other issues (adequate brakes?) If the car were mine I’d probably overhaul the good old 305, if it’s getting tired, and enjoy the car for what it is…. Good luck! Ed

All depends on condition… check out frame for any serious rot and also reinforcement subfloor boxes for weakness… also, if the interior has damage from a leaky moonroof, which is quite common, you may want to pass… Best of luck!

Studebaker ‘proportioned’ the Avanti brake system, front to rear, in two ways…. 1) By using a non self energizing type of rear brake…. and…2) Dialing in the internal diameter of the rear brake cylinders.

Just to be clear … The distribution block (or brake line union) in the original Stude Avanti brake system simply directed the brake fluid into the (front / rear) brake lines… It did not in any way proportion the amount of brake pressure front to rear.

Good man!!

The extra weight of the power window assy seems to exasperate the broken door hinge area issue… which is unfortunately somewhat common on Studebaker Avantis…. Personally, I would attempt repair of the original door.. I have done this job before.. The trick is to cut away the fiberglass area with the access holes to put your socket wrench through to access hinge- to-door bolts… Then make the actual repair by roughing up the fiberglass and adding a layer of fiberglass cloth over damaged area… To make repair ‘bulletproof’, rivet a piece of thin sheet metal over repaired area….(holes drilled in metal)…Then fiberglass the outer piece back on.