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64studeavanti

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Everything posted by 64studeavanti

  1. Went to the auction today, it was rescheduled from November 18th. Bought R5423 for $4520 including buyer premium and credit card fee. As near as I can tell, the hogs are intact (they have been sprayed with bedliner). I tested several areas with an ice pick. The 'A' pillars and window frame look great. The body is in very good condition with no evidence of wrecks. The frame is solid except for the brace under the spare tire well, an inexpensive fix. The paint is pretty bad and a non stock color, so will need a respray. Glass is good. Engine and transmission were supposedly rebuilt a while ago. Both will need disassembly and inspection before use. Quite a few of the missing parts are in boxes with the car. Will know more when I get a chance to do an inventory. So far, looks like a good buy. Thanks to Dale for bringing this to our attention.
  2. I have 63 round headlight Avanti R4551. It has the hood prop on the left side, the long battery, and no brace on the hood.
  3. The change after 4892 is likely relocating the support bracket from left to right.
  4. Often, the zerk is broken off when pivot is removed without removing the zerk first.
  5. True is correct. According to parts book: 3spd - 45 25/32" Auto - 46 9/32" 4spd - 51 29/32"
  6. Closer inspection indicates that you may have incorrect lifter cover. The one you are showing has a road draft tube. Not used on Avanti. If you like, I am willing to assess what you have. As I stated earlier, I live about an hour away, just south of Tampa.
  7. I have made many purchases. Bob is a great guy to do business with.
  8. Don't forget to remove the grease fitting first.
  9. One of my 63s, R4551, has the 813 BKV option according to the build sheet. It was slated for the Las Vegas drive away. The dash panels etc. are covered in woodgrain vinyl, I assume it is di-noc. The the steering wheel is woodgrain tenite. It also has round knobs. The interior is solid black vinyl with black carpet.
  10. The number on the housing is the casting number. For Studebakers, the part number is not necessarily the same as the casting number. For replacement, the best you can do is find a good used one for sale. Being a Avanti only part, they are quite rare. FWIW, the R1, R2, and R3 are the same part number.
  11. 526956 is the casting number for all rods odd or even. There should be a stamped cylinder number, 1, 2, 3 etc on the rod and cap where they fasten together. As long as you install them in the correct cylinders and orientation, you should be good.
  12. Should be 527114 for odd and 527115 for even. I will go out to the shop and check on casting numbers.
  13. Likely casting numbers vs part numbers. They are usually not the same.
  14. A valid concern. If one was worried about that, they could purchase an extra set of pads. In 5-10 years, the original Dunlop pistons may no longer be available. The Sumitomo version is getting scarce, if not already NLA. Brakes are a wear item, so replacing the pistons after 5-10 years should not be a real concern. The good news for Avanti owners is that the Dunlop design was used by many British, Japanese, and other makes. Parts will be available in some form or another.
  15. Thanks for doing this. It is good to know there is a more affordable alternative.
  16. Would be good to know if we have another source.
  17. The original Dunlop caliper pistons (and the ones licensed such as Bendix, Sumitomo, etc) were SAE. It would make no sense if these were metric. FWIW, before I discovered these, I was able to purchase Sumitomo from Parts Geek. They are SAE and fit perfectly. Unfortunately, Parts Geek and others that sell the Sumitomo are out of stock.
  18. The picture shows the crossover tubes. Since the original Jaguar caliper pistons do not have the pins in question, I am assuming that they are part of the improved design and should not be removed. The original parts had a mechanism to pull back the pads slightly. Cannot tell if these have similar, or if they are even necessary as "modern" calipers do not have this mechanism and rely on runout to provide the same function.
  19. I use compressed air to push the pistons out.
  20. I have not tried these, but the price is right. https://mossmotors.com/8777-2-cp-cobalt-brake-cylinder-axle-set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzaqmz_-s_wIVgZqGCh2kYwuqEAQYFSABEgJSg_D_BwE#829=2405?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=shopping
  21. I assume you cleaned and painted engine, starter, etc. How about scraping off some of the paint where the starter mounts to the engine. Ensure that you are grounding to a clean, bare area and that the cables you are using are of the correct guage. Inexpensive jumper cables may not be able to handle the load, and paint is not a good conductor. One more thing to check, is the valve lash on spec? If valves are not opening correctly, that could be an issue.
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