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64studeavanti

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Everything posted by 64studeavanti

  1. I have just finished cleaning the hog troughs on R4551. After removing a bit of undercoating and surface rust, they look like new. I did break off one of the body mount bolts and one of the seat belt nuts came loose. Both have been repaired. FWIW, this car spent most of its life in Los Angeles before coming to FL, according to the past registration receipts in the glove box. In any case, they appear to have been painted black from the factory. The only other color on them is some over spray from the body (turquoise). While I not a big fan, I am considering POR 15. Since I cleaned them up with a wire brush on a drill, I am sure I did not remove all the rust. Any recommendations as to color? POR 15? The Authenticity Manual does not address hog trough color.
  2. Tried a heat gun today. Need surprisingly little heat to soften it up. Kept a fire extinguisher handy just in case. Was able to clean some undercoating from the torque boxes and floor pan. It is thicker in the fender areas so may require more effort.
  3. I am doing body off and need to re-bond some panels, for example the door outer skin to the door frame. What are you using for glue? I am leaning toward Evercoat Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler.
  4. Have used one on steel bodys as well. Used cowl mounts and rear trunk area. First time on fiberglass. Some of the glass is very thin, especially in the rear floor area. This area is usually supported by the frame.
  5. The three points under discussion would require quite a bit of fabrication as the widths of those three points are different as well as height. Like Brad, I have been using the hogs as they are the strongest part of the body.
  6. Leaning toward firewall mounts for front. IMO, using the radiator support mounts leaves a lot of unsupported fiberglass. I am afraid it would at least crack if not worse. Will investigate the trunk floor. For now, I have the shell resting on a pair of 4x4 spanning the front and rear of the hogs.
  7. Saw that on Corvette forum. They suggested plastic scraper. Also suggested several petroleum distillates such as kerosene. Has anybody had any success with a method?
  8. If you are looking for spares, there is a complete setup from a 62 GT Hawk on ebay for $150. The reach rod and steering box would be different and you could not use the column, but the rest of the parts are usable.
  9. I am looking for suggestions as to where to mount body shell on rotisserie. The hog troughs seem to be good. Any other ideas?
  10. Any suggestions on a good way to remove undercoating? I am doing body off and would like to get this done. Some of it is very dry and scrapes easily. Most of it l, not so easy. I don't want to use anything too aggressive for fear of damaging the fiberglass.
  11. If the O.P. does not, I have a couple of spares.
  12. Don't know about the first, but the one I have is dated December 63. That should be late enough to have most, if not all, the running changes.
  13. You should get a copy of Stan Gundry's book "What the Shop Manual Won't Tell You". It has info on this as well as many other useful bits. I believe you can order it from his web site. http://talkshop.blogs.com/avantipublishing/
  14. There is a pair for sale on ebay. The picture shows that they are 17" center to center.
  15. New ones are available at a reasonable price.
  16. You either need to raise the body a little or cut a little off the inner fenders. The support was installed before body was mounted to frame.
  17. They look like pins. I will post a picture if I can figure out how.
  18. Maybe we are discussing different things. Standard AFBs have 4 external vents, one at each corner. This carb has them plugged. Where is the vent you indicate located?
  19. The floats are removable - not part of the airhorn. The external vents are indeed plugged on my model 3507S airhorn with the "sealed" carb tag. Yes, the accelerator pump seal is staked in a recess - non-sealed AFBs have the same recess. The seal could be staked on non-sealed airhorns as well. If you bother to look at the base (the part that mounts to manifold) you would observe a substantial difference in the machining to control leakage via the throttle shafts under boost. In short, a non-sealed airhorn can easily become sealed by plugging the external vent holes and installing the pump seal in the existing recess as was done at the factory. The floats, not a permanent part of the airhorn would need to be used as well. If you are looking for authenticity, you would also need to install the "sealed carb" label. A non-sealed carb base requires significant machining to resemble a sealed one. Adding the seals for the idle screws is also trivial. Of course, you would need to use sealer on the screws as per the shop manual.
  20. I do not recall any special machining for the sealed accelerator pump. However, I will check in the morning. The 4 external vents just have small plugs driven into them. The base is what requires the machining not the airhorn!
  21. The seal for the accelerator pump is not part of the airhorn. The four vents are just plugged on the sealed airhorn. Any AFB airhorn could be similarly plugged. It would take quite a bit of machining to convert a regular AFB base to match the function of the sealed one. I believe that Bob Johnstone's site has instructions for the conversion.
  22. The body is quite a bit different from "generic" AFBs. The base of the R2 carb has slots to keep fuel from leaking around the shafts under boost. The body also contains the special non-collapsible floats and seals on the idle screws. Other than the tag, any air horn could be used.
  23. Do you have the L&R knuckles/spindles? Are they in good condition?
  24. I believe viscous fan drives were filled with silicone fluid.
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