64studeavanti

Here is a link to a discussion of different heads and gaskets. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Heads/Headcasting.html This web site, maintained by Bob Johnstone, is a great resource. Best gaskets used to supply a gasket that was about .040 compressed. For my R1 4spd, I had the block zero decked, bored .060 over with flat top pistons. This gives excellent quench. With an Isky ST5 cam installed, it runs very well on pump premium gas. Some did not care for the best gaskets. I do not believe they are available any longer.

Later Studes used the shim gasket. If you use the thick gasket on R1, the compression will drop about half a point to 9.75:1 instead of 10.25:1. This is good for today's gasoline. If you have the block decked and heads milled to ensure they are flat, the shim gasket will seal. Otherwise, use the composite.

The shop manual clearly states to use Sealer and bedding on the windshield and butyl tape and Sealer on the rear window.

Ernie loga @ http://www.studebakervendors.com/loga/ can make you any panel you need.

the picture that was posted sure looks weird. what were they thinking.

There should be two vertical bumpers labeled as 1807-3 with rubber cushions on rear bumper.

The shims are identified as 1805-3 for the rear bumper and 1805-9 for the front.

Not sure we are on the same page, but rubber shims between the body and bumper are normal to fill the gaps for both front and rear bumpers on the sides.

My concern is that I have 3 square headlight Avantis. Two 64s and a 78. all measure differently, and it looks like all have had work done to that area of the body. The parking lights fit snug against the body on all 3, so I assumed the headlight gap should be narrow as well. As you indicate, not likely a precision fit.

thanks, I thought it would be a narrower gap and the same all around.

As the title indicates, I am looking for info on the gap between the body and headlight rim for a 64 square enclosure. The Avanti I am working on has had repairs and I would like to make sure that I repair it correctly before new paint. Thanks

Try Ernie Loga. https://www.studebakervendors.com/loga/

yes, I deleted older attachments just as you described.

I had to go into each individual post and delete images in order to post more. Lots of good information lost. There needs to be a better way as it took quite a bit of time to delete the prior image postings.

This is serial R5408. It only has 4 carpet pieces: left floor, right floor, spare tire, and lock. I also have R4551 and R5423. All have the same carpet pieces and the entire area is painted black. I agree that it does not appear to be gloss black. I was suprised about the lacquer paint.

Answered part of the question. The black paint is easily removed with lacquer thinner. Checked several locations. Am sure it is factory since I was able to get down to primer. Going with semi gloss unless I hear otherwise.

If you can, inspect the windshield frame and A pillars. These areas are prone to rust out. You can check the A pillars by removing the reveal moulding.

Pix of spacers for manual trans. They go between rear mount and bell housing and are 1/2". In a pinch, a stack of washers would likely work.

I know the trunk area is black. Any ideas as to gloss? Maybe semi gloss? Originally enamel or lacquer?

I believe they are 1/2" thick and were also on other manual transmission Studebakers. I have a couple of spares. If I can clear off enough space, I will post a picture. On my 64 4spd, I had vibration issues. I saw another car had them, so put some on mine. Vibration gone. I assume it was enough to throw the driveline angles off.

there are also 4 spacers between the brake booster and mounting bracket.

There are 2 spacers between the transmission and mount on manual transmissions. The parts manual calls them washer, spacing. part number 1548406.

spacers used with transmission mounts. one for automatics, 2 for manual.

Painfully deleted some of my attachments. There has to be a better way!

I have the same issue. any answer?