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Mark, I hadn't seen anything on this since you last wrote on 11/10/24. So I too have just run into this issue. I'm hoping you found an answer. My story is similar. The original dual master cylinder was leaking and some fluid was getting into the booster. So I replaced the master cylinder. However, my mistake, I extended the booster push rod to what the manual said to 1.25 inches. Didn't take long to burn up the calipers. So replaced the calipers, had the rotors turned. Reset the push rod from the booster to match the new master cylinder, in my case 1" (actually 31/32). Then off I went and for a few rides ok. Shortly thereafter, pedal was very hard to push and brake the car. OK, videos and discussions with folks says it's a bad booster. So, sent that off to have it rebuilt. Report back was yes brake fluid got in and diaphragm was cracked and the wrong check valve. So, finally got that back. Put it all together, bench bled master cylinder, bleed the system 3 times. Now when the engine is off, brakes are hard to push as would be expected. However, like you, now when I turn the engine on, brake pedal goes to the floor! On top of that, the engine stumbles, loses some vacuum, about 5" Hg. Bleed brakes again, no change. Talking to the fellow who rebuilt the booster says it's a bad master cylinder. Damn thing is only a few hours old. I'm using DOT 3 fluid if that means anything. I'm at a loss as to what the issue is hence why I read your forum with great interest. It also appears when doing a search on the AOIA and SDC forums, this has been a familiar problem with a fair number of people.

Thank you, I had the doors closed, they both lock with the key just the passenger side worked with the lever.

Thanks much, Brad! I was wondering how that set-up might work. 👍 Jeff

Edelbrock 74-47 with the orange step up springs (4" hg) work great. order from Summit. I also use a little leaner jet, a .98 instead of the stock 101. 93 secondary jets.

The doors have to be closed for the inside lock knob to be able to lock the door. From the outside, only the key locks the doors.

Any door lock experts out there? My door locks work opposite of what the owner's manual says with the key. Also, the driver's side lever won't lock the door; the passenger side lever works as advertised. Thank you.

Thanks, Dwight! - In the car the engine number is RS2514, indeed. And the car is grey ... It is just a pity that it does noch have power steering from the beginning.

This first image is courtesy of Leo B. I saved it earlier and I'm only re-posting. The forums have undergone changes where earlier image links are no longer valid. I have the ability at this particular time (during the tear down of my 1985) to sit in and photograph the area in question. I brought this photograph into an image editor and overlaid some dimensions with text. If somebody wanted to make one of these panels to kill the vortex/eddy (I know I will at some future date) these numbers should get you close enough to trim your way into a finished project. 26-inches of width (more if you want to bend up sides to close the lower side gaps) and 17-inches of length, plus some tin snips or a rotary tool, and you'd have a *fingers crossed* weekend project. The fascia's inward lip could be a good lower mounting location. The top could either feature small U-shaped reliefs (openings on the engine bay side) so the panel slides around the radiator frame mounting bolts, or drill holes and push the bolts through.

Modern factoids: LS1 & LS2 are close bore & stroke matches to the Studebaker 342 & 364 "would'a been" blocks. LS1 was 3.898" bore by 3.622" stroke. Kinda cool those are what came in the Firebird based Avanti. LS2 was 4" bore by 3.622" stroke. It's why I'm putting a 364 LS in my Blake build, as a head-nod to Studebaker. If Lee Zeldin keeps waving his magic wand, I will eliminate the PCV system and drill 2 holes in each of my valve covers to insert breather caps with the blue Studebaker/STP sticker on them. Let freedom ring, indeed!

I notice a couple things: 1) "Engine number: S-2514" Normally Avantis' engine numbers started with "R", so your engine number should be RS2514. 2) "One quart P6335". P6335 is the code for Avanti Gray paint. That is acrylic lacquer. --Dwight

Thank you, Mel. I could not see anything on the tyres, but they are from Michelin. The forum ist really great thing - for me that is the internet als it was meant to be.

Thank you for your response and info. I’ll look them up

Studebaker international is where I bought mine, there are several suppliers of parts for your Avanti, Nostalgic Motor cars is another.

Thank you very much. I figured that out. Finally got it adjusted correctly.

A Studebaker 340CI engine build, using as many authentic parts as possible, would certainly be a HISTORIC achievement in our world of Studebakers/Avantis… I only wish Bob Palma was alive to witness this!

Newbie here. Tryin go to “straighten out” this 82 that I bought. Any of you know where I can buy the side window weatherstrip? Thanks in advance

Yes they do bolt right on the big bore engine. Hopefully we will see how that assembly goes in the near future. The engine is earmarked for a factory Super Package Commander.

There should be a hole in the movable arm, and the mounting bracket. loosen the hold down bolts, and pit a drill or pin to line up the holes, then tighten the hold down bolts. That should in theory get you there.

Looks really sharp, thanks of showing her off.

I read about a national event called Mustang Week in January and submitted our Mustang based 06 Avanti to see if they were interested. They were and we took our car there at the end of April. It was among 1500 Mustangs of all years, some from as far away as Canada and Puerto Rico. Our car won an award while there, but the most important thing were the ideas that we came up with while looking at all of cars/vendors. I now have 4 new ongoing projects with the car because of this and the first was wheels/tires. Ford originally intended that the car come with 18" wheels per the door sticker, but Avanti Motors put 2004 17" x 9" Mustang Cobra SVT wheels on the car instead. After we decided on a wheel, and we looked at dozens, we bought "Xcess 5 Flake" chrome rims, 18" x 8.5". I then purchased Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires and put 255/45 on the back and 245/40 on the front. The front tires are 1.25" inches shorter than the back and gives the car that "dropped" front end look. The speedometer is accurate when checked with a GPS and the car drives and handles extremely well. I put the original wheels/tires for sale on Facebook and sold them in 1 day. 3 more mods are coming soon.

The switch is most likely bad. You can unplug it, connect an ohm meter to it and rotate it and see if the circuit works in every position (bad) or does work correctly. If it works correctly then someone has bypassed it or the wiring harness has a problem.

It's the resolution, jpg must be 300 DPI for conversion. Standard 72 DPI isn't clear enough.

Mine should work, used it for decals, clothing etc.

Mark, that’s not the only thing we have to contend with in Washington State. A bill just passed that will require a speed limiting device be installed in the car of a habitual speeder. Not necessarily a bad idea but can you imagine having an “authorized shop” crawling around in your Avanti wiring in cameras and gps devices and some type of throttle control? Yikes. Drive responsibly! Mike