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Zedman - any part numbers for these engine mounts?

Good Morning Y'all.... It has been a little while since I have checked in. Much is going on w/ RQB 3616. I decided to rework my front suspension and rework the engine compartment before I put the engine & transmission back in. I degreased, scrubbed, and pressure washed the engine compartment. and frame. Removed the steering gear, scrubbed, painted, and it is awaiting reinstallation to include a new rag joint. I pulled and rebuilt the power steering solenoid and it is awaiting reinstallation. Received my order of Eastwood rust converter, encapsulaor, & internal frame coating. I have removed the driver side control arms and kingpin. The kingpin got new bearings, a solid, scrubbing, and a paintjob. The control arms and associated parts have also been scrubbed, painted, and are awaiting me to press in the new bushings. I have also started the rust converter / encapsulator effort on the driver side of the frame in the engine compartment..... I have tons of pictures and will them get posted later. I did fail to get the lockup kit installed on the transmission when I got it rebuilt but have picked up a Edelbrock Painless Performance 60109 Torque Converter Lock-Up Kit and will be installing sometime in the near future.... I also picked up the HD sway bar kit and will be replacing the front during all of this. With Fall being here I am pushing to get the suspension and engine compartment work done to include paint before the temps drop to much..... Any recommendation on exhaust manifolds... I was thinking a set of engine hugging ram horns but am open for ideas.... Blessings Y'all

Thanks for that idea and the TC lockup info, MFG.

Agree with You both, since I'm not generally a purist. And as said, ""Love the Changes!"" As far as my '63' R2, however, ''I am'', and the only anticipated change is Turner Brakes which will show a dual master under the hood. Also Ron... I have seen the valuation go up substantially in Our '01-06' cars just in the last 1 1/2 years I've owned mine. I see the prices meet and exceed the Av1's and mores over the AV2's What really got me started on all Avanti's was when Alice Cooper did a Retro of His Av1... with a Ford Smallblock and suspension upgrades (amongst other changes) by Counts Custom (TV Show). It triggered a long held respect I've had for decades for these cars.

This 2006 Avanti shows me well thought out, VERY well done IMPROVEMENTS !

I don't think there are many purists on the 2000s cars. Even if there are, it doesn't make any difference to me. Valuation of these cars doesn't compare to the 63-64 Studebaker models. I know without a doubt that they will increase the value of the car based on comment made to me at the AOAI - SDC dual meet a couple of weeks ago. My car received a First Place award with 98.33 points out of 100. I also received the Longest Distance Traveled award for 1375 miles driven one way. Since back home, I replaced the windshield since there were tons of small paint chips in it. Final work is a new top due to wear and tear.

How deep is the clock body? Would it be possible to mount a quartz movement with a long shaft on the back of the body? I have a volt meter in the clock location so I’m just kind of speculating. Mike

I have a complete package to convert to standard from automatic, all original parts. Any interest, contact me. Also have complete R1 motor, rear differential, doors w/ manual windows, brake parts, etc.

I'm just wondering if there's a small enough quartz clock mechanism available form a hobby supplier that would fit inside the clock body and use the factory clock face...and the AA-battery could be mounted outside of the clock body under the dash. The factory illumination could be retained...just the guts of the clock replaced.

I'm in the process of converting to a mechanical switch mounted under the dash that is actuated by the brake pedal arm. I had to cut, bend, and drill two holes in a piece of metal. One hole holds the switch. The other is where it's bolted to the dashboard. I'll add some photographs when I get a chance.

If you do install a backup battery, you may need to wire it in such a way that it doesn't try to also power the rest of the electrical system. Otherwise, it might drain quickly if something gets left turned on.

So, you're measuring 9V at this wire while the engine is cranking, correct? If so, that may be OK. Verify by checking the Voltage at the battery while the engine is cranking. You'll probably see a similar drop.

Dear Dwight, I haven't found a booster yet. If you still have one, I'd be happy to buy it from you. I've already purchased many missing parts from Stephen-Allen's and Studebaker International. I prefer to send the booster to Studebaker International, as I can also order other missing parts. Like to hear from you. Regards, Paul

I completed that stage. Now the wire from the starter to the distributor that supplies voltage during cranking is now hooked up. I measured that voltage and it is only 9 volts. How can that be? It's the green wire with black stripe. Is it a resistance wire as well?

I LOVE the changes as well, but I'm not a ''Purist'' and I welcome most tasteful Mods that are done on a personal automobile (or vehicle) . A "Purist" might take offense or even disgust with the things being done.. How do these things affect overall end $$$ value? Eye of the Beholder, I guess.

Hi, Paul, Did you find a booster? I may have one; not sure at this point. I don't know if there are any rebuilders in Nederland or Europe, but there are in the U.S. Stephen-Allen's in Florida and Studebaker International in Indiana (& probably others) sell them, but require a rebuildable core in hand before they will ship a rebuilt booster. I bought a rebuilt one from S-A and it works well and looks good. If I, or someone else, come up with a core, I assume that either SI or S-A will ship to you. The rest is obvious. I'll let you know if I find one here. --Dwight

DobbM, your idea is sound. I suspect that the electro-mechanical clocks in our Studebakers would last longer if always powered up. There are small 12-volt rechargeable or non-rechargeable batteries on the market--just search. --Dwight

Point taken. I did another search and this was discussed over here: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/80418-clock-ideas-replace-or-convert Sounds like a good winter project.

It will take more than a button battery to run a mechanical clock designed for 12v. Average button 1.5v and even if you put 8 in series to get 12v it wouldnt have the amp/hr capacity to run very long.

https://aoai.org/forums/topic/11446-outside-rear-view-mirror-placement/ If the bottom of the mirror is "open", the clamping rubbers will not tighten well. Tip: Place 2 suitably high nuts underneath the mirror leg and between the rubbers, against which the rubbers will tighten. (screws through the nuts).

Yeah, that would be good. I would love to know how many cars survived the last decades. We can get he production numbers but the actual numbers of survivors? Unknown So, My question was never addressed. ''So the numbers,....are we referring to 63-64's, or all, including Avanti 2's?.''

@Dunkin Did you find the correct template?

Minor thought process here and wanted to see if anyone has tried this. I have a negative battery terminal disconnect, and when used, obviously, the clock stops. I was thinking of keeping the power to the instrument for illumination of the clock face, but to get the mechanism (minute and hour hands) to run off a button battery. Stupid idea? Why didn't I think of that? Comments/Suggestions/Thoughts always welcomed.

I literally just found this in another post of yours. Thanks for the resource!

This is a colorized version that has the different system's separated. Scroll down to the 63-64 Avanti. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eSSmIKiSS8lzc9kPYRm4Uk3yeu72TIlj This is a link to a post from a SDC member on the SDC message board. Steve.