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And that slight valve noise is part of the ‘charm’ of the Studebaker V8 !!!

Something I’ve seen on Avantis when the bond between the hood skin and its inner construction releases (at the front) …Water gets inside, and creates rust and corrosion between the hood bolts and their respective nuts…. Sometimes making it impossible to unbolt the hood from the hinge.

Although I’ve never done it, I don’t see why an identical hood support couldn’t be installed on the driver’s side, However, I think a better solution would be to remove hood from car and repair it with a good clean out & rebond.

Avantis are generally quite rare everywhere. Yes, there might be more in North America, but even in the United States and Canada, many people have never seen one.

True, but if the knock sensor is detecting a knock and the timing is retarded, doesn't that mean a knock has occurred and the engine is already toast? The answer is 'no', because if that was true, the computer would also set the check engine light and the owner's manual would tell you to have the engine checked. I believe most automotive gas engines are designed to withstand a certain amout of light detonation without being damaged. Severe detonation over a "long" period would be a bigger problem. That leads me back to my original thought. I was taught that an engine can have light detonation and a knock sensor will pick it up before a driver will hear it. The computer will retard the ignition to elimimate the detonation and the driver will probably never notice anything was amiss. If a simple circuit to drive a light on the dashboard could be created that was sensitive enough to detect the voltage created by the knock sensor, it seems that it would be a helpful addition to a high compression, non-computer classic car, at least to let the driver know detonation has been detected. I wonder, though, if all the valve noise on a properly adjusted Studebaker engine with solid lifters would create false positive detections. The fameous sewing machine ticking comes from the tiny valve lash being taken up by each moving valve train.

My hood is separating at the front for the second time in recent years. There is noticeable dip in the hood on the driver side when the hood is open as the hood support is on the passenger side. Could the hinge be weakening and cause this? Is there a way to install a support on the driver side? Thanks for any help and advice. Kevin A83

Thank you for the info! I had already a short call with him.

Well regnalbob, you asked politely this time, and it pleases me that your manners seem to be improving! The cost info concerning the ‘63 Avanti Shop manuals was provided by Dr. Bert Lamberti, in an expense review dated 12/11/62.

Please post the source of the correct answer.

Good deduction… and you are CORRECT!

John sold you a 1963 unit because 1964 units are impossible to find. I've been searching all avenues for a 1964 stylefor several years with no luck.

On my 72 there's a plate on the roll bar that is held in place by two 3/8" bolts. This plate is what the upper pivot of the shoulder strap attaches to. One of the bolts was stripped. I got it out, but apparantly there's a nut inside the roll bar and it fell down inside! Does anyone have and suggestions for a workaround to secure the bottom of this plate?

I have three chances to be wrong and one chance to be right, gulp. It's a big book with a lot of pages & many blurry black and white pictures. The had to have spent $14,337.00 if they spent a dime.

No ‘bookworms’ out there??

and another recent post with JPEG/JPG images in a different forum post here:

I see them... here is a post from March with a couple JPEG/JPG image:

That makes sense …. I assumed the Granatellis painted those two roofs, but now It sounds like the two tone was done at the factory…. Interesting!

The wiring up to the overhead panel carries all the load for the headlights and instrument lights. You can put relays in the wiring from the dimmer switch so that the main (headlamp) load passes through the secondary of the relays, taking a lot of the load off the overhead switches. The relays mount directly under the fuse block. I wrote up the procedure in issue 170, pg. 47 of AOAI magazine. An aside: The overhead panel and the heat/vent control panel are both lit with two 12 volt instrument lamps wired in SERIES. Wiring them in parallel would be a bit of a chore. I purchased 6 volt bulbs and replaced them all. Much brighter, but not too much. Don't mix 6 and 12 volt bulbs in the same area.

Knock sensors are generally in the valley of a Vee engine up high in the water jacket closer to the combustion process. It should be away from exhaust noise. It is a piezeo-electric device that makes a tiny voltage that the computer interprets and in clost to real time reduces the timing. Just having a sensor that tells you it's knocking doesn't prevent damage.

Do you still have these frames for sale?

Thank you mfg 👍

Leo…. Your emails weren’t coming through till today, but I have them now …. Didn’t realize you lived in Finland…. Will take parts to PO tomorrow and figure out shipping cost.

Factory production data from the Studebaker Museum indicate the two Bonneville Hawks were the only 1964 Hawks with the factory painted Sport Roof.

Looks like a good solution. Seems like it would help the air conditioning be more effective. Mike

Nelson Are you still looking. I have one, cracked on one side. Steve