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On my 72 there's a plate on the roll bar that is held in place by two 3/8" bolts. This plate is what the upper pivot of the shoulder strap attaches to. One of the bolts was stripped. I got it out, but apparantly there's a nut inside the roll bar and it fell down inside! Does anyone have and suggestions for a workaround to secure the bottom of this plate?

I have three chances to be wrong and one chance to be right, gulp. It's a big book with a lot of pages & many blurry black and white pictures. The had to have spent $14,337.00 if they spent a dime.

No ‘bookworms’ out there??

and another recent post with JPEG/JPG images in a different forum post here:

I see them... here is a post from March with a couple JPEG/JPG image:

That makes sense …. I assumed the Granatellis painted those two roofs, but now It sounds like the two tone was done at the factory…. Interesting!

The wiring up to the overhead panel carries all the load for the headlights and instrument lights. You can put relays in the wiring from the dimmer switch so that the main (headlamp) load passes through the secondary of the relays, taking a lot of the load off the overhead switches. The relays mount directly under the fuse block. I wrote up the procedure in issue 170, pg. 47 of AOAI magazine. An aside: The overhead panel and the heat/vent control panel are both lit with two 12 volt instrument lamps wired in SERIES. Wiring them in parallel would be a bit of a chore. I purchased 6 volt bulbs and replaced them all. Much brighter, but not too much. Don't mix 6 and 12 volt bulbs in the same area.

Knock sensors are generally in the valley of a Vee engine up high in the water jacket closer to the combustion process. It should be away from exhaust noise. It is a piezeo-electric device that makes a tiny voltage that the computer interprets and in clost to real time reduces the timing. Just having a sensor that tells you it's knocking doesn't prevent damage.

Do you still have these frames for sale?

Thank you mfg 👍

Leo…. Your emails weren’t coming through till today, but I have them now …. Didn’t realize you lived in Finland…. Will take parts to PO tomorrow and figure out shipping cost.

Factory production data from the Studebaker Museum indicate the two Bonneville Hawks were the only 1964 Hawks with the factory painted Sport Roof.

Looks like a good solution. Seems like it would help the air conditioning be more effective. Mike

Nelson Are you still looking. I have one, cracked on one side. Steve

Yes, that's what I had in mind. I know that a knock sensor detects the ping and can be tested by tapping something metal near the sensor with a hammer, but I'm not familiar with how the "signal" is read, or if a computer must be used to read it.

Randy Bohanon is selling a 1963 Avanti R2 automatic he recently had restored at NW Avanti. I saw the car in 2024 just after the restoration was finished. It's a beautiful car. Turquoise over turquoise. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/sale-want-found-cars/2067012-1963-avanti-r2-for-sale

You’re going to have to spend more nickels to get to the correct answer Mark!!! Any other thoughts on this one?

I will guess $29,885.00 and not a nickel more.

I sprayed consol both side totally 2 layer Lizars Skin. Actually I used this total body front area inside and underside + firewall inside. https://lizardskin.com/heat-protection/ 4-speed shifter, console and firewall are no longer hot.

Now we just need something to cool off the shifter!

RQB3263/81/305.... FYI

THE COOLING TUBES HAVE LONG SINCE BEEN REPLACED WITH A FULL WIDTH FIBERGLASS SPOILER/SCOOP... ALL GOOD

RQB3263/81/305 .... PICS OF MY AUX TRANS COOLER INSTALLATION DONE TEN YRS AGO ... IN FLORIDA ... DOUBLE PASS (BOTH IN AND OUT FITTINGS ON THE SAME END)....KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK .....BILL IN FLORIDA

I'm looking for best offer on all the parts. Some are used. Some look new. They were in the trunk of the car when I bought it.

Definitely different shroud ……Avanti factory used standard Chevy fan & fan clutch.