All Activity

Screw on service valves are for R12. Most anyone who does a 134 conversion replaces those and the dryer at a minimum when doing a conversion. In a lot of cases the rubber lines need to be replaced as well. Now, that's not to say that some person came up with an adapter to charge 134 through those fittings but I sure wouldn't. R12 and R134 don't mix, you use different A/C gauges to prevent mixing the refrigerant, use the correct fittings and gauge pressures. There use to be some R12 replacement refrigerants available but I don't think those are available anymore. You'd have to call a local parts store and see what they have.

The 5 mph crash requirement was reduced to 2-1/2 mph in 1982 so I believe the original bumper was able to pass that requirement.

I believe it started in 1973, when the 5 mph bumper law became effective. My 74 still has one, though it has been shortened so it doesn't stick out so far. I left it on because at one time I was parking the car on the street pretty frequently. I believe Avanti Motors eventually got a waiver from some of the safety and emissions standards.

Qty 4. 15" x 6" wide. Came off a 1982 Avanti with 9,670 original miles. Extremely nice, includes immaculate Avanti knock off caps and all correct lug nuts. Photos available. Old tires removed and wheels boxed and ready to go. Can deliver to Spring Jefferson or delivery may be available. Current Dayton comparable NEW wheels are $895 each plus caps, plus lugs nuts. My current price on all 4 with caps and lug nuts is $1,200. ashie1@charter.net or 507-282-2679 Rochester MN

Well done. I agree with your assessment about the dash looking too Mustang for an Avanti. I also am not crazy about the shifter and the large steering wheel hub that houses an airbag. Having owned a 2006 Mustang GT, I wasn't too crazy about the latter two either! You did a great job 👍 👍

I bought a 64 Avanti project at an auction a little over a year ago for $4500. R1 with A/C and auto. Engine and transmission supposed to be rebuilt. Came with extras such as new dash pad, rubber kit, etc.

Very nice upgrades you did, makes the car look to me, more modern.

Awesome information. I’ll try the link you sent to hopefully talk to someone. Keith

Why not contact someone in the Keystone Region Chapter. You's are right in the middle of a lot of Studebaker owners. I'm sure they would be glad to help... https://sdc.cornerstonereg.com/Chapter/ViewChapters?loc=PA

I paid up for a used replacement from a well known vendor and got one that doesn't have chrome as nice as this one does. This bumper is for the guy looking for an inexpensive one for a nice driver- it has an area by the passenger side bracket that has a ripple. If you have hammer and dolly skills you can probably make it near perfect, except for the tiny rub on the chrome seen in the photo. Glad to take more photos of certain areas as requested. $175 plus actual shipping, which won't be too bad, they are very light.

So can I assume that since there are screw on connectors that it was never converted and the R134A note on the invoice was an error? Are there any economical replacement refrigerants for R12? Don't want to invest too much, not knowing if the existing system will even function. Might make more sense to install a modern compressor, etc.

1-2) It could have been installed back at the factory after purchase, a recommended repair shop that they used at the time or a repair shop that did it for the owner. 3 & 5) Your concept is correct. Replace the dryer, replace the service valve "stems" on the 2 hose fittings, vacuum it down for 30+ minutes and then recharge. The service valves will require snap-on connectors if the system has been converted to R134A 4) There isn't one from the factory. 5) Leak check the system once recharged

1) Today I got the production order for my 63 R1 (4223) and air conditioning was missing from the option list. I assume this means it was dealer installed later? 2) Found an embossed aluminum tag in the glovebox that was at some point installed under the hood (I assume) with "Studebaker Air Conditioning" and info about the system. Where would it have been installed? 3) When I was a teenager in the 70's, if I got a car that with air that wasn't working or out of freon, I would simply pump down the system with a vacuum pump (maybe replacing the receiver/drier), recharge the system and usually that got it working. Any reason that won't work today, assuming I can find refrigerant? 4) Does the Avanti AC system have a pressure switch to keep the compressor from running if there is no freon? 5) How can I tell if the system has been converted over to R134A? (a service invoice from 2005 says that they added R134A to the system at that time)

All brake parts except for shoes are new, and the shoes look recently replaced. I tried slamming on the brakes in a parking lot and looked at the tire stipes. The left rear was nowhere near as strong, barely there. So I'll try re adjusting it.

Great article. Please keep them coming. I agree that raising the rotary knob controls makes for a much better layout.

Thank you I’ll do that

You may also want to consider buying the Shop Manual. Although you don't have a '63 - '64 a lot of the mechanisms remained the same!

Anthony: I am still waiting to hear back from you.

My Avanti II 1981 model had the Kelsey-Hayes Proportioning valve on it and orignal Bendix Calipers when I broke the car down for frame off resto. Because the K-H unit is a bit of a rarity and hard to replace parts for, I decided to go with a brass GM PV2 proportioning valve . This valve is specifically for Disk & Drum combination and is a bolt-up replacement for the K-H valve. From what I have researched, a proportioning/combination valve is there for the purpose of allowing the rear brake drums to apply just ahead of the front Discs- that's all. This is to prevent the front brakes propping, and causing the rear end to 'come around'. For this reason, I wouldn't fob off the idea of using a combination/ proportioning valve. I wonder whether you might have a an issue with the right rear brake applying with more gusto- causing a right hand veer. May I suggest checking the orientation of the Shoes, adjustment of the shoes, the condition of the rear Flexible brake line (they are often blocked- like mine were), the condition of the brake lines along the rear Axle (I found mine crushed !) and condition of the rear brake cylinders. After that, maybe look at utilising a propvalve?

I have a metric gauge that I'm going to fit in my Avanti. I'm assuming that I put in the appropriate speedo gear to suit the diff ratio and it should work accurately or am I missing something ? Peter

The "window stop" for its maximum height is adjustable. Remove the door panel; towards the rear of the door (latch side) and close to the top, there is a bolt that holds the adjustable stop in place. Lower the window and look down into the cavity from the top of the door and you will see the "stop". It's just a flat piece of metal attached to a bracket that you move up and down. Loosen the bolt, lower the stop a little. tighten, raise the window and check the new maximum window height. Once you have it where you want it then tighten the bolt and install the door panel.

Oops only should read On My …. Sorry

Only 1983 AVANTI when I raise the power window all the way up it hits the vent window chrome and pushes it up off the glass a little bit How can I properly correct this ? All advice appreciated thank you A83

Finally new sending unit was installed by mechanic and seems to be working fine . Thanks everyone for all your help and advice. Regards Kevin

That CHMSL looks like the ones used on the roll hoop of C4 Corvettes (1986-1991, plus all ZR-1). There are 'vette owners whom have swapped those halogen bulbs for cheaper and modern LED solutions. Search the Internet for C4 ZR-1 CHMSL LED and that should get all the necessary information to make the conversion.