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I don't know, but does an auto have the clutch linkage frame mount already on the frame.

Thank you. Will check it out

Not at all, but one rarely does when doing a custom vehicle for their spouse/family. I usually do everything first class which is expensive but worth it in my eye. The buyer will end up with a really nice car and won't be saddled with tons of repairs like most usually do. It's time for me to realize that I need to slow down a bit too. (we will see about that :^D )

As long as the change doesn't really show, like a transmission wouldn't, I think changing the transmission is fine. I would rather a transmission change than an engine change in an Avanti. I must confess that I did change an engine in a 63 Hawk when I was in school. I still have it but will change it back to a Studebaker engine (modified).

Are you sure Ya wanna sell off that beauty? Gotta say, I hate to see a member sell off an old prized model. I'm in a similar situation with the Newer version, ''02' and a '63' R2. I still have issues with the '63' but when finished I doubt I could let it go. Both the New and Old have their separate qualities. and though I like the '02' Model better, it tends to be a techie headache, the engine is too far back in the compartment for easy maintenance. But... the '63' , most everything is accessible. Your pricing is spot on for a vehicle with the work done. Still will you recoup after considering all time spent?

To hold padded fill neck cover in place, at least thats how both of my avantis are

I bought this 1982 Avanti II for my wife 2 years ago and did a complete restoration to make it a solid car, we are the 3rd owner. We have now bought another Avanti and decided to sell this one. The car has spent its entire life in the south, so the main rust issues that many have is not a problem. The car has every option that was available at the time and here are the repairs/upgrades that have been done: EXTERIOR: Added front spoiler, replaced fog lights, replaced all bulbs with LEDs. TRUNK: Replaced all the carpet to match the interior, new spare tire and jack. INTERIOR: Replaced all the carpet, had some upholstery replaced and dyed to match interior. Replace front door window track guides. Replaced Sunroof weatherstripping. DASH/CONSOLE: Replaced all of the wood dash and console trim, installed all new gauges and installed new dash indicator lights with modern LED lights. New 2 spoke custom steering wheel. AUDIO: Replaced the radio with a modern style Kenwood, replaced all four speakers with JL Audio and installed an amplifier. AIR CONDITIONER: Replaced compressor, receiver dryer, and inside fan speed switch. ENGINE: 305 GM V-8, Replaced spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Replaced all hoses in engine compartment. Had radiator flushed, Installed electric fan with new high output alternator. Rebuilt carburetor, replaced intake manifold, replaced timing chain while replacing front seal and cover gasket, replaced water pump, replaced oil pan gasket and rear main seal. TRANSMISSION: 4 speed 200R4, Performed a full transmission service. EXHAUST: Complete new true dual exhaust system. BRAKES: New brake hoses, new rear wheel cylinders, flushed brake fluid, the master cylinder and brake pads had just been replaced by previous owner. SUSPENSION: Rebuilt the front suspension, new rubber arm bushings, new kingpins, new center pivot bushings, new front shocks, rebuilt power steering control valve, 2 new hoses. Rebuilt the rear end, new ring and pinion, all new bearings, new rear shocks. Installed new American Racing Aluminum Magnum 500 wheels and tires. This car is ready to be enjoyed by a new owner who doesn’t want to spend money and time repairing everything that these older cars need. It has been a 2-year project with over $10,000 in parts replaced, not including my labor time. (Note, front and rear seats match in color, image are off a little. Asking $25,995, cash or verified bank check only. 512-788-1136 cell.

One sort of pain in the neck thing that has to be done is removing engine oil pan, oil pump, and rear main bearing cap & rear seal in order to swap the short torque converter mounting bolts for the longer stick shift flywheel mounting bolts… a MUST DO!….. Also…I think it’s much easier to remove the engine/transmission as a unit, and do most of the conversion work in the open, as opposed to working under the car…. Good luck!..Ed

Wide fluctuation sounds to me like a bad ground. The first thing I'd try is running a separate ground to the gauge 'casing'. There are two main wires leading to the gauge, one from the ignition and the other from the tank sending unit. Good luck.

If your car is nice and original/ stock, Why butcher it. Look for an abortion to beat. Only so many original cars out there. Just sayin

Thanks guy, Thanks for responding. What screw would go into it, for what.

Thanks very much I will have that checked out. Hope its not the guage as I don't see many out there. Appreciate your help.

If Myers can’t help, contact Dave Thibeault at Studebaker Parts & Services… He can provide every last nut & bolt for the transmission conversion you desire.

Talk to Michael at Meyers Studebaker he has a 6 speed in his.

Hi all.. I have a 63 Avanti that does ok..The powershift does ok but .. well it isn't what I want. I have always lusted for a R@ (Which I have) and a 4 speed. Drove many at my dads dealership back in the day.Theyare really like 2 different cars. Does anyone know of a vendor who sells a complete kit or perhaps does it? My motor and all id fresh as Jim Maxey overhauled it before i bought it. Also has ERB go through the supercharger andThe carb gone through... Also.. How hard was it for you folks who have done it to gather all the parts... Just in thinking stages so far but really leaning that way.. Thanks in advance.. Ron Husak 63 R2

Apologies- I've posted this thread in the wrong group.. Thanks for the replies Gunslinger and MFG. It has been hinted to me that the colour is actually a Cadillac line.

If you go with mechanical throttle linkage… Nostalgic sells the special bracket assy that fits onto the rear of Chevy engine.

Looks like StudeRich on the SDC website back in April of 2022. He says that Studebaker of California (NOS Stude parts) and a repair shop Studebaker Parts & Repair were in the same building but not affiliated. Studebaker of California then sold/moved to Indiana while the repair shop continued. According to his post the owner of the repair shop retired with the shop continuing but moving to its new location and changing its name to Studebaker Restoration LTD.

I would like to see how the clutch and throttle linkages were done on the later Avanti, did they have mechanical or hydraulic clutch? Throttle was it cable or rods/bellcrank?

I sat through a seminar last year and watched Dan Booth from Nostalgic do a dash pad installation on a dash. He had other dash pads from competitors and showed the differences, including how competitors' pads don't usually fit as they should. The ease of installation is about not spending a bunch of time trying to get the fitment right where it looks good. If you get a cheaper pad and it doesn't fit properly, they will tell you that you just need to make it work. One of the vendors won't take it back, another will, but you'll pay return shipping and a restock fee. With that being said, you have to decide if you just want something that will work $1000 or something that looks and feels like it came with the car when new $2200.

I’ll check that out… Thanks very much!

Sorry I'm too computer illiterate to post pics.. Web site is Studebaker-info.org for a Youtube video on how to replace on a 89 convertible. Google Avanti Window sweep Replacement and it will probably come up if you dont go to the website. The window sweeps come from a company called Precision Weatherstripping. Its called a beltline kit for 88 Monte Carlo 2 door. There are two variations, one with the outer stainless as shown in the You tube video , needed for convertible. I went with the non stainless ridge for my coupe. I did not need to match a stainless strip on my stationary rear quarter windows. Hope this helps

That's a very interesting aftermarket option, Ron. .... A good ''keeper''.

The sending unit provides a variable ground for the gauge action, but there is also a standard ground wire on the sending unit as well. The gauge also has a "white ground wire" on it which either connects to another gauge ground or to the dash frame. Since the car is fiberglass, the grounds are extremely important. An ohm meter can be used to check each of the grounds to see if that is the problem. Lastly, the gauge can also be failing if everything else tests good.

The sending unit is mounted from the top of the tank and the float points sideways, so starts and stops shouldn't affect the gauge reading much at all. It's possible the sender is bad, but the gauge or wiring may also be the problem. The only way to know for sure, is to remove the sending unit, hook up an ohm meter to it and move the float up and down through its range. It the readings are good, then the next place to go is the gauge and wiring connection. The wiring runs from the sending unit, under the back seat and up to the dash. The same ohm meter test could be run at the wiring where it connects to the gauge. (disconnected from the gauge). If it checks out there, then the gauge has gone bad.