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  • My Avanti
    1972 RQB-1831

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  1. Are the caliper pistons installed properly in the cylinder bores? Do the pads fit properly without binding in the caliper? (I've had some pad sets that were slightly too large and had to be sanded down on the sides to fit properly) Are the brake calipers properly shimmed so they are centered on the rotor? It's normal for the caliper to drag on a bit after the brakes are released but it should be fairly free after a few revolutions of the wheel. As mentioned above, if the booster pushrod is out of adjustment this will also cause the brakes to drag. If you feel that the brakes are dragging, one way to check this is to loosen the nuts between the booster and the master cylinder to separate them. (with the car on jack stands, do not drive it like this) If the dragging goes away the pushrod is too long and needs to be adjusted.
  2. An update on this old topic~ The fan-speed rheostat in my Avanti quit working recently and is beyond repair. (it only lasted 50 years!). I searched for a bit and could not find the replacement P/N 35700 mentioned above. They seem to be no longer available. Luckily, I found the P/N 35701 switch for $22 at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. It's not a rheostat; it just has off-low-med-high but it gets the job done. I'll keep looking for a proper rheostat replacement and if I find one I'll post an update.
  3. 1. TV Cable and mounting bracket. Anywhere special to get this? They are available at TCI (tciauto.com) Bowtie overdrives (bowtieoverdrives), Summit Racing and JEGS 2. TH200-4R flex plate stone guard. Not sure what this is. Are you talking about the bottom cover under the torque converter? Yes, it's just a cover to keep debris out of the ring gear. 3. Dipstick & tube. I have a 200-4R from another car. Can I use the one that came with it? Yes, that should work. 4. PRND321 shifter lens and linkage (available from Nostalgic Motors). Pricey but I have talked to him about this. 5. Lock-Up torque converter system (several ways of doing this, from a simple toggle switch to full electronic. I designed my own and will be happy to share the idea if you're interested) Would love to know about your idea and design. I'll work on a write up with a description and drawings. Basically it uses two vacuum switches and a relay. Another thing you will need to check are the speedometer gears in your TH200-4R transmission. You may need to change one or both of them to get your speedometer to read correctly. Here's a link that should help: https://www.tciauto.com/speedometer-gear-calculator#2004R
  4. Did the bell housing bolt up the same? Yes, the TH200-4R transmission will bolt to your Chevrolet engine without a problem. No change of starter or flywheel/flex plate? I had to change the flex plate because the mounting holes for the TH200-4R torque converter did not line up with where the TH400 converter was mounted. I bought the correct flex plate at NAPA and was able to reuse my original starter. What about the the drive shaft? The transmission length is very close to the same. Are the splines different? The TH400 and TH200-4R tailshaft splines are not the same. At minimum, you will need to replace the yoke. In my case, I had to have a new driveshaft made. In addition, you will also need: 1. TV Cable and mounting bracket 2. TH200-4R flex plate stone guard 3. Dipstick & tube 4. PRND321 shifter lens and linkage (available from Nostalgic Motors) 5. Lock-Up torque converter system (several ways of doing this, from a simple toggle switch to full electronic. I designed my own and will be happy to share the idea if you're interested)
  5. I believe there's been articles in Avanti Magazine about doing this, and it's been discussed on this forum many times. I converted my own '72 Avanti from the TH400 to the TH200-4R many years ago, and while I did not document the process I'd be happy to answer any question that I can.
  6. Could you post a picture of the hose you're trying to remove?
  7. I've had to add a few additional pieces of weather seal on mine at a few places. Use a strip of paper about 3" wide and about 12" long, and put it in the door opening at various places and close the door. If you can easily pull the paper out with no resistance, you don't have a tight seal in that area.
  8. Check to see if you have a small seal at the top of the vent window frame, where the door glass slides up to the top. If it missing you'll get a leak. It's P/N 1328454. These leaks can be hard to find as the water doesn't always drip straight in; it tends to run along for a ways and then drip. Another thing that can happen is that leaks can develop between the sunroof drain channel and the roof panel. So, even though water drains out through the drain tubes, some water can make its way from the sunroof drain channel to the underside of the roof, where it will then drip off at some other location. If the drain channel looks at all rusty, probe around with a pick and see if you poke through anywhere. If you do you'll have to remove the rust, clean the metal, treat and seal.
  9. If the Avanti parts vendors cannot supply you with a replacement, you can probably adapt a similar switch and make it work. Here's a variety I found at Ace Hardware:
  10. Wow that is really cool! Can you share some more pictures? I'd like to see how the Corvette suspension was attached to the frame.
  11. NAPA lists Part #: PGB PBR2 for the outer bearing, and Part #: PGB PBR6 for the inner bearing. Bring your old one with to the store to make sure they match up. Ihttps://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=wheel bearing&referer=v2 f your Avanti has the original Dunlop / Bendix brake calipers make sure you keep track of the shims on the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts when you take things apart. You'll save yourself a lot of time when you go to put things back together. If the shims get mixed up you'll have to go through the procedure as per page 6 of the Brakes section of the shop manual to get the caliper centered on the rotor.
  12. Find another tint shop. When I moved to AZ I discovered I needed to get my Avanti's windows tinted. The first few tint shops I went to told me they wouldn't do it because the rear window would be too difficult. One told me they would do it only if I removed the window and brought it to them. (umm, no thanks). Finally I found a shop that would do the job at a reasonable price. It turned out great but they did say it was difficult.
  13. Zedman, I was just doing some service work today on my "72 Avanti and I noticed a similar plate inside the right inner fender. The charcoal canister mounts to the other side under the hood. Could this be what you're looking for?
  14. Take a look at Vintage Air. They will have everything you need. https://www.vintageair.com/
  15. I agree with what Avanti83 said above; it's probably best to rip out the mess you have and neatly run new wires. But, if you want to figure out what you have now, a 9V battery is useful in sorting out speaker wires. Just touch the two speaker wires in question to the terminals of a 9V battery, and you'll hear a noise from whatever speaker the wires go to. As for the three speaker wires going to the back, many older stereos didn't run a separate pair of wires for each speaker. They use an independent + for each speak and a shared - (negative). So you'd have a L+, a R+, and one - that runs to both speakers.
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