brad
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Posts posted by brad
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The reason for putting the flat washers under the mirror is the surface underneath is not flush with the bottom. Since the rubber well nuts need to be compressed first to expand, they will just pull up into the void and not expand, and the mirror will flop around. By having the washers preventing the well nuts from pulling up they expand fully below the level of the fiberglass and hold properly.
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I'll put my work up against any corvette people anywhere. Since the Avanti was a pressed body, and not a laid up chopped mold, the fibers are much much drier.
99% of all the repairs I have seen were done with a wet layup and is the wrong way to go. It makes for a much harder repair that does not expand and contract the same as the surrounding material. My repairs won't suddenly show in the hot sun!
SMC (sheet molded compound) adhesives are a good repair filler.
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It means built for stock,....not pre-sold for order of a customer.
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No, the very rare R3 tachs were green line 8000 RPM with a telltale pointer.
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I personally know a few that have sold for more than that. A 63 customized R3 without the engine went for 84K and a true R3 (one of the 9) went for 129K including fees, at auction. I always say if you want to get the money, then advertise where money hangs out. One may have many more people looking at places like Ebay, but they are the Walmart crowd.
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Not if it is sealed properly by not using lacquer. You don't have to worry about moisture if one uses urethane.
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Actually, the 52 or so gear drive experimental GSS blowers with the Vr-4 impeller is the highest output that shares the same SN-60 case.
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Jim McCuan does for his 64 GT Hawk he's building for Bonneville.
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Sure, any "lark type" from 61 on will work
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It is an Epoxy resin. There are several different resins available however, including polyester. Evercoat has lots of waxes and other modifiers for flow that do not promote good adhesion for subsequent coats. One must be diligent and first wipe down the surface with a good wax and grease remover before sanding it to remove all traces, then you can add a second coat to whatever you are repairing. West Systems is a much better product. Also to prevent shrinkage and show through of sand scratches it's a good idea to add colloidial silica.
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Vince....my first guess.
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I have never measured them , but they are pretty long.
I do know they are dwarfed by the Olds Toronado doors! Them suckers are huge!
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No, it was sold several years ago.
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true, there is nothing "directional" in the guts. The ball drive, and oil pump work in either direction, and the impellers are straight,
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You have to take off the "R3" emblem/ cover to get at the idle adjustment screws. The fuel line passes through a white rubber stopper instead of a threaded fitting. no provision for fuel spillage either.
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I was told they actually forgot! and only added them after getting complaints of people getting soaked.
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So the adjusting bolts don't hit the oil pan
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True, even though it is a wider band the adjustment is the same.
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True, it is driven by the INPUT shaft......not the output
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True. They are the same
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You must have the Avanti specific shop manual. The 59-64 Studebaker shop manual did not cover it unless you have the green Jet Thrust section.
Also the standard Avanti shop manual does cover it in the fuel section.
For lubrication, use B&M Trick Shift transmission fluid (NOT SYNTHETIC). The level should be between the dots on the dipstick.
True good type F is almost impossible to find. B&M is a type F and will work excellent.
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Even though the idle adjustments were made tamper proof in the mid 70's, they were a better base for a performance carb. The float chamber and primary boosters were tweaked. Look for carbs with the dual venturi boosters on the primary side Some larger Buicks and Pontiacs had single boosters, and don't have as good low speed throttle response. Smaller engines have stops in the secondary air valve, and don't open fully. These can be reworked to open all the way. It's mostly moot as the smaller engines can't pull enough air to open them anyways. It is usually good practice to replace the float when rebuiding these carbs, as they saturate with gas over time, and no longer float properly. Check for leakage between the base, and main body of the carb, as the well plugs in the center (underneath) can leak. Seal them with JB Weld and let it set up. You must use new gaskets between the base and main body. Also the manifold base gasket has anti crush washers built in, and won't reseal properly, so replace that every time you remove from the car. Late electronic carbs have to usually have the throttle position sensor replaced. The mixture solenoid has to have 1/8" movement of the main metering rods. Also you have to adjust the carb with a dwell meter hooked up, and the solenoid adjusted to get 30 degrees, as it affects the computer settings.....hence the timing. If you remove the idle adjustment plugs to set the idle screws, they are not the same as Carter or Edelbrock settings, and take 4 turns out from seated.
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R3's were installed in 64 only, They didn't have the hood brace. Also they used thinner motor mounts, AND shimmed the body higher for hood clearance!
So the quick answer is yes, it will hit.
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False is correct