brad
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Posts posted by brad
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The one I restored had the two added gauges, Oil temperature, and fuel pressure. I believe the third one was also another [different] boost gauge.
The oddity that struck me was the fuel pressure gauge was direct reading with fuel plumbed right to the gauge.
Very unsafe and I fixed it by utilizing an isolator from Moroso, which I hid inside the pressure box
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But it's not true. I costs as much or more to restore nearly any vehicle you can name. I've seen Shelbys well into the six figures on restoration costs, and Corvettes too for that matter
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I just put a silvertone 2 1/2" exhaust on a customers car, and he opted for the loud. Needless to say, it was too loud also. He contacted them and they offered to trade mufflers, with an exchange at a later date. You cant beat his service bar none.
In my opinion, the medium was still too loud for my liking.
If I were to go with a performance muffler I would seriously consider Flowmaster HushPower II mufflers, and ALSO their HushPower Resonators just ahead of the tail pipe.
On the fan, the original, with the thermostatic coil that engaged the clutch, was very noisy, and never seemed to disengage. The replacement viscous type seem to be a little quieter
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The tension arm nylon bushings, the idler pulley bearing. The supercharger mounting bolts. The internal ball driver, the internal oil pump. The races, the impeller.........need more?
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The pulley arm tension spring. Easy
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Yes, it's not that hard, but the car must be jacked up so the tail can be tipped way down. Also a good engine leveler has to be employed as the angle needs to be straightened out as you lower it.
You do risk the firewall as it takes lots of guidence by more than one person to do it.
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That still shouldn't do it .....not with 3/4" hose to the air filter. You would have to blow a hole in a piston to have enough crankcase pressure. It will not happen unless that hose is plugged off.
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Well, it wasn't shades of Grey!
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I would also say the air cleaner housings. Especially the R1s
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Don't appologize for me, ever. Thank you. I never got removed from a forum , just sayin'
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Not in my world of body repair, We call things like the header panel the "nose" . Lets see.....you have the outer fender, the inner filler, the inner fender, the "Nose" section between the fender blades. The inner upper filler between the headlights. The headlight pockets, the inner hinge pockets. The lower scoop center.The lower scoop side pockets. Then you have on some cars, the battery tray reinforcement, Don't forget the two filler pieces under the hood latches. It doesn't matter either way , the nomenclature you decide to use, none of the numbers provided are correct.
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If you want to go back and see whom started disparaging remarks on whose work, then we can start with your nasty snarky comments on the other forum about my work several years ago. Regarding my ability to rebuild superchargers. I have the factory tools and probably have rebuilt more than you have ever seen. but hey if you like sabatoging other people without ever having met them....more power to ya. It just shows all of us what you truly are.
I don't know what you do for a living, obviously not a diplomat.
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That equates to over eight thousand dollars today
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Egbert, he was a pilot.
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It's higher than the front
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I can pull up codes for colors that have 12 different formulations for the same color. They are called variance chips. You can get different colors from the same mix if you spray it differently. I have probably painted over 2OO2 vehicles in my career. You don't just buy paint and spray it and expect it to match. It will not happen.
Many, many times these "variances" are totally different toners off the mixing bank, not just different amounts of the same toner.
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What do you consider the "nose" assembly in the first place?
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Still, I must say that your idea of adding sawdust to a rear end to quiet it down is questionable at best brad.
Don't lay that at my feet. I was using an example of your "craftmanship" to draw a parrallel
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No actually, it means two different people from PPG mixed two different formulas at two different times. The ORIGINAL R-M lacquer was one formulation.
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Two of them to be picky, one on each headlight opening vent. A cigarette filter [new] works well.
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And sawdust in the rear end quiets noisy gears....right Ed? They are screwed down from the factory because the plastic emblem has foam sealing behind it. They wanted to compress this to prevent looseness and crazing of the edges. There were barrel nuts available when the cars were new, and Studebaker chose not to use them. If you ue the barrel nuts you would need to scrape off the foam sealant from the plastic emblem, and risk scratching the black paint. then moisture would get to the foil part and delaminate it in short order. One could try silicone rubber as a sealant, but your bodyman will not like you in the future.
Since you have to remove the interior to get at it anyways what advantage is a shortcut?
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You will have to remove the 1/4 window assembly, Which includes the stainless frame where the rubber is. I think there are phillips head screws.
Then you unfold the interior vinyl and reach in behind the backer board cardboard to the mounting nuts of the emblems. There are 3, 5/16" sheet metal pal nuts holding on each one
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The mirror was mounted on the dash, the pleats were not present, and the glove compartment wasn't functional
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If you look, there are also ports tapped and plugged facing front and back as well as up and down. There are these two in the front.....hmmmm now that you mention it there are only two on each head. I was over thinking [yes I was] the need for them at the fron as well as the rear. But if you swap heads side to side that would account for the front to back swap too. So there would be 5 total. as I stand corrected.
Avanti Emblems!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
Nope, to the left, or counter clock wise......or anti clock wise for you Britts.