brad
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Posts posted by brad
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Gotta be a trick question. I know the eighty nines didn't have them though!
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I believe it's an SFE 15 fuse......15 amps
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It's an in line fuse holder from the ignition switch, to the controls.
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The jury is still undecided. Latest thoughts are that the first couple of dozen were black. I would need serial number documentation to really pin it down.
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true, except you would need the longer studs on the right side for the heat riser valve.
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false. That would only increase the point where the relief opens, It doesn't actually increase what the pump puts out. If you never reach the point of the relief valve opening, you wouldn't notice any difference.
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The lack of the front bumper is noticeable .....slightly....even if you're blind
. I really think removing bumpers hurts the design. Even nerf bars are better than nothing at all. -
I was gonna say because he liked marsupials, but that would be wrong.
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The replacement cross shaft bushings from SI are longer than the originals. There is an oil hole that must be lined up with a corresponding hole in the casting. The cover gasket needs to be the correct thin paper type. The top seal isn't a direct replacement, and the aluminum holder needs to be reamed to fit it. The sector shaft seal wont last too long because it gets cooked being so close to the exhaust manifold. I have had better luck using a silicon high temp seal sourced from a bearing supply house. [i don't have the numbers in front of me]. Just cross reference the CR original seal. The pin is available, but the rollers are not, so if they are pitted, you have to scrounge. The end bearings you can source from any good bicycle shop. Follow shop manual procedures on setting up adjustments, and preload shims.
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There was an assembly plant in Israel at one time.
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Even the front bumper brackets were different, and the slots had to be elongated still further.
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The physical size and layout yes, but the attachment method, and numbers [of course] were different. As well as the location on the vehicle.
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True, 63 grille emblems on Larks had RX [X being the 1 or 2 depending] on one color,[on one side of the "S"], and a asterisk on the other. In 64 they put the R on one side, and the X [1 or 2] on the other side of the "S" 63 side emblems were rectangular and said Avanti powered. In 64 they were oval plastic with a chrome ring.
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The trucks!...
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They built two.
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Yes, but I haven't seen that size advertised in years! Most people use the R3 size if they are going to bore an engine that much, as i's only.O13 more.
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The Lizard skin is about 3O-4O mils thick, and the foam was 1/2" Dynamat is probably less than 1/16" so about that total. The foam is called anti-fatigue mat, and was sold as a carpet underlayment...But, I haven't seen it for a year or so at the box stores.
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The heat barrier is like a ceramic slurry, and is a bit fragile. It will scrape and dent, but only in direct contact with something,but you won't rub it off. In other words, it does stay put, but It isn't tough like a bed liner urethane material.
The dynamat does not reduce sound penetration just resonance for the most part. That is what the dense foam is for.
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Light up thresholds, like many BMWs and Mercedes. not a new trick.
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I used Lizard Skin spray on heat barrier, over the sound deadener. Both inside and under the floors. I then used a dynamat type of foil backed sound deadener. Then over that I installed an extremely dense closed cell foam rubber, then the carpet. Needless to say the car was like a bank vault.
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Perhaps he didn't see the smiley face?
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I also have seen 2O,OOO in print somewhere....perhaps the Lamberti papers states for sure?
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The impeller of the supercharger has to be loaded or it will slip the drive balls, and they will degrade in short order once slipped.
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Where would one even get the same toners as listed in the formulas? numbers change over the years, and complete lines of toners are eliminated from production.
Lacquer is illegal to spray in many larger metropolitan areas. I have to be EPA certified for tracking waste. It's even illegal to posses a non HVLP paint gun in regulated shops. It's a 5O thousand dollar fine.
An individual CAN however use it for hobby reasons. Bill Hirsch is the only one I know selling lacquer.
Although lacquer looks nice it cant compare to modern urethane formulations in terms of durability. I'm not talking about garage queens, but cars that see major air pollution, and 5OOO ft plus ultra-violet radiation. Plus you don't have to worry about bird droppings, and brake fluid spills. Even todays gasoline with all the alcohol will ruin lacquer in short order. There are NO arguments for using lacquer that make any sense. Base clear is easier to blend, and if you get a run in clear, it buffs out much better. Metallic dispersion is controlable and it doesn't change when you cut and buff it. [wet sand] .I have been spraying paint since lacquer was common, and as materials advanced I embraced them, learned them, found them to work well, and never looked back. All the compounds, and techniques are formulated for modern materials in paint shops and one would have to go out of your way to use outdated materials.
If one thinks they need a single stage paint to match the "original look" then there are urethane single stage paints also sold. But then you have some of the same metallic and blending problems of the original too.
This is what works for me and every competent painter that I know. Your results may vary.
63 Avanti with A/c
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by brad
No relay, the power wire goes to the variable resistor/fan speed switch. there are several terminals. One is power to the switch, the other is just a off/on switch to the temperature switch [from that it goes to the compressor clutch] the third terminal is the variable part to the evaporator motor.