brad

So, there might be two different sizes of fuel pumps used on out cars. I have used this kit before with good results, however on a few ones I tried using this kit on, the top diphragm seal was the wrong size. Then and Now Yesteryear parts also has a good rebuild kit .

I have seen some strange stuff on Avantis. I've seen the salt and pepper carpet over the seat hump, with no vinyl riser, and of course the more familiar type that is cut out for the riser that is covered in matching seat vinyl.

The Will Carter is right from the horses mouth at the Carter factory that was in St. Louis. Can't get any clearer than that.

Compression ratios. The R2 needs more initial advance, and less total advance when the boost comes on.

Actually the 64 changes were on an EX prototype car made long before R4892. One of the last ones Gary Johnson is finishing up.

There is usually a flat washer gasket sold with the kits, as well as a grommet that goes around the stud on the lid. don't use the grommet, as it is meant for the Ford type with the vented dipstic cap and lid. use the flat washer so the dimples on the top are open under the washer for venting.

Do you just want the look of the original shifter? or are you wanting it for concourse judging? There are stock looking round handles that fit the Hurst "guts" available that look completely stock on the inside including shifter placement, and the round boot too. Dave Thiebault sells the handle.

Knock sensors are generally in the valley of a Vee engine up high in the water jacket closer to the combustion process. It should be away from exhaust noise. It is a piezeo-electric device that makes a tiny voltage that the computer interprets and in clost to real time reduces the timing. Just having a sensor that tells you it's knocking doesn't prevent damage.

Bowler Transmissions make an excellent stand alone torque converter lockup wiring kit.

Check the shift light where the wire goes into the socket for the bulb. Since the light moves with the shifter, it can break at that point and short out to the case of the light which is ground.

I'm guessing since Bob actually presented his source then turn about is fair play in asking you to present your source. You have lots of trivia questions but never have you presented your research material to back up your questions.....why not? In this era of "Fake News" facts matter and can't be disputed.

Be careful upon reassembly. the shaft has a very sharp edge that can cut the new seal. I also look at the shaft to make sure it isn't grooves where the seal rides. I have had to install ready sleeves to repair them in the past. Also look at the reservoir to pump body gaskets. They are square shouldered "O" rings. Be sure the lid is vented properly, or it will leak again. Aftermarket repair kits sold by All the vendors use the wrong cover post stud gaskets.

R1 (570) heads will already have a tighter quench and squish than an R2 head, so there's that. In my experiences, dish pistons give better turbulence, and better combustion than flat top pistons.

If you're going to do a valve job anyways, a little porting in the combustion chamber to unshroud the valves will also lower the compression ratio. You can open that up, and use the composition gaskets, and get it back down to 9:1 without too much trouble. Plus, it will breathe better at lower valve openings.

Often the "new" door strikers are a tad off in the teeth underneath, and dot engage the latch pawl correctly. It's often I have had to rotory file them to fit properly. Also if using old parts, the striker can get a notch worn into where it rubs on the lock interlock at the back of the latch, and you wont be able to lock the doors because the lever does not get depressed fully when the door is shut. You can remedy this by drilling a small hole, and installing a machine screw so it protrudes just enough to work the interlock. Then your doors will lock.

Usually it's just a poor internal connection. I take them apart, clean the contacts, and put them back together with the end caps from a slow blow fuse from my well. The mercury part of the switch is a glass sealed cartridge and it's the outside of that connections, that corrode.

I use Autolite Platinum AP85. Champions are now China sourced, and quality is non-existent.

Those holes (without the plugs) are to let boost into the passageways to equalize boost pressure from the throttle plate bores to outside the bores of the throttle shaft, so it doesn't push fuel out the throttle shaft.

It's in the mail now...Shipped it out Friday.

How about dual 4s AND supercharged?

Edelbrock 74-47 with the orange step up springs (4" hg) work great. order from Summit. I also use a little leaner jet, a .98 instead of the stock 101. 93 secondary jets.

The doors have to be closed for the inside lock knob to be able to lock the door. From the outside, only the key locks the doors.

There should be a hole in the movable arm, and the mounting bracket. loosen the hold down bolts, and pit a drill or pin to line up the holes, then tighten the hold down bolts. That should in theory get you there.

I sent one to Switzerland a few years ago, the only metric gauge was the speedometer. oil was still PSI, and temp was Fahrenheit.

You can get them installed wrong on the opposite sides, so keep track of which is which. After the crank part is installed, then the center idler plate is screwed to the door with the three very short bolts. Anything longer will hit the transfer arm that was bent and bind it up. Then crank the regulator all the way to the top, and then line up the forward bolt of the short track. then reach in and push on the short track to line up the 2nd bolt hole. If you try to do it with the regulator down, the spring pressure is much greater, and injury is more possible. What you want is the spring to wind up and exert more pressure as the window is lowered. That counterbalances the weight of the glass and frame.