brad

Really, they are pretty expensive new. a 1409 can be sealed with the marine accelerator pump and work fine. All new carbs are mostly sealed except for that due to emissions and evaporation rules. 500 CFM is enough but for a few extreme high RPM engine builds. They come with .098 primary jets, .095 secondary jets, and are very well suited right out of the box.

The problem with adapters, it makes things taller.

If you don't have to have factory stock, an Edelbrock MARINE carburetor will work fine. They are already sealed.You just have to use an aftermarket top hat.

Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On This is the ONLY place I have found that makes a good kit for the stock pumps. Won't work on the modern Chrysler replacements. They have 8 screws holding the housings together, originals have 6. This has the correct caged valves, not some stupid brass bullet casing/rivet.

I ran a wire inside the vent hose in the 1/4 and used it to fish the new line back through the high loop in the 1/4 panel.

Possibly. What are the dimensions? (width, and length) I got some that were stainless, and 3/4" wide.

Those metal extrusions have been NLA for years. If you find them hold on to them.

TKO600 behind a Stude engine. The TKX is supposed to be better shifting, and slightly smaller. Behind a Chevy it is just a matter of bolting it to the factory bellhousing. You don't need to change everything else. Use the Redline MTL fluid, and change it once after about 1000 miles. I got mine from summit as a transmission only, check around and see if places like Speedway are offering deals. They usually are a little less expensive.

You can rebuild the originals. Here is the best kit available. Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On

I use a body cart, and support the body at the hog troughs, and the front cowl body mount, also at the top of the rear wheel housing. I can remove the trough supports, and the front cowl and rear wheel well are sufficient to support the car. I haven't ever put one on a rotisserie, You can't support the car by the front as there would be enough stress to crack it.

It is a dust cover to keep the air bleed hole clear. The purpose of the hole is to pressurize between the output shaft sealing rings to help seal in the oil.

People always assume slotting the outer holes will get the adjustments they need. Not so. If you take note of where the actual pivot of the hinge is, it is closer to the INNER holes. That is where you need to slot and adjust things. I have had such poor quality control on the fitting of factory doors, that I have had to break apart the skin from the shell, and re-glue to get things to fit. they ae often twisted. Also take note if the inner fiberglass that the hinge bolts to is not cracked, and allowing movement. That is very common.

It can be done. The difficulty is lining things back up to center the "pin" when driving in the new bushing. I have used a come-a-long, and a jack and done just that on several cars. Made a tedious job very quick.

You probably can take at least 1/2 a point of compression by leaning back the point between the valves, and the shallow end of the chamber. Also some "unshrouding" of the sides on the upright walls. That and use the thicker composition gasket, and you would be there. It would most likely breath and perform better than stock R2, and be less prone to cracking that the R2 heads had.

There is a s\connector hanging down in your next to last pic. The white plastic with the black locked connector is the dimmer switch. It should be mounted to the steering column and a rod from the turn signal stalk activates it. There is a dash light and gauge harness it has a large screw together connector located just at the upper edge of the drivers side console between the dash cross brace and the edge of the dash. I have the complete wiring diagrams for 87-89 cars.

If you live below 3000ft. altitude, I have had great luck with this jet combination. (as a starting point....your results may vary) Out of the Edelbrock 600cfm zip kit......098 primary jets. 74-47 metering rods. Orange 4 in" Hg step up springs. Use .095 secondary jets.

If one wanted to convert to a newer Edelbrock carb, the marine version is sealed and will work out of the box. If you want to convert an R1 AFB to an R2. I have done it with no consequences. I solder a brass nail through the floats to stiffen them up. Plug the top fuel bowl vents. Counter bore the idle mixture screw holes slightly for an "O-ring". Use the afore mentioned Edelbrock MARINE accelerator pump seal(throw the actual plunger away it doesn't fit) and use the factory plunger.

I hope this helps.

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ I second TCP global.