brad

I'm going. Don't need a room though. It's close.

The turquoise one is one I did around 2009. Serial 5590. Engine B-61. Now somewhere in Texas.

The "technical term" is inverted flare fitting. You got one from an earlier Stude that has the brake light hydraulic switch mounted there. Avanti junction blocks will have all inverted flare fittings. You can plug that with an 1/8" pipe thread plug.

I have had good luck rebuilding them, if they're not too far gone.

Only purchase the 5smd 96 lumen bulbs. The others will not be bright enough. BA9s LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - BA9s Bulb | Super Bright LEDs Use this dimmer...it is a pulse width modulator so it switches on off time to dim. A resistor will NOT work. AutoMeter 9114 AutoMeter LED Lighted Gauge Dimmers | Summit Racing

R2/3 floats are extremely hard to find. I have in the past, made them by soldering brass pins through the side of the floats to reinforce them.

Not to pic nits, but the very first reply to your problem had the answer.

The striker on the door gets worn so if you did not replace them, just putting on new latches won't do the trick. The handle does have a roll pin that engages the sliding cylinder that also rotates to lock the door by the key. The roll pin can shear and cause it not to rotate with the key.

More than likely 5652. The one in my shop. White with currently orange interior. The one at Indy was white. There was one other white prototype. The build sheet shows red interior, but I haven't tore into it to see if that is how it actually was built. Things might have changed when it was updated and sold by the factory in engineering. When restored, it will be as it was when first built including lacquer paint which I already have acquired.

There are different size bushings. Inner and outers are different as well as upper and lowers. Before everyone gets in an uproar about that statement, I'm just relaying that there were early 51 and 52 a-arms that had solid bushings, and also R3 and taxi upper inners were solid. Those were different sizes than outers too.

Gary Johnson would know, it's at his shop. 5652 has the holes for the tag, but none was ever mounted.

Not a pressure regulator. It's the purge valve for the charchol cannister. For fuel fumes. It energizes when you start the engine, so fumes are drawn in and not released to the atmosphere.

Most kits do not have the correct rear output seals. Bands can be sent off and relined in even high performance Kevlar materials. Alto Red Clutches for Ford FMX can be used and will hold more than 600hp. B & M sprag clutch can be used and is stronger. There are differences in powershift over standard flight-o-matics. Drums and bands are wider, and some clutch apply pistons are different and have built in check valves regular flight-o-magics do not have.

Last I heard, it was pretty much done. Richard wanted me to come out and do some door adjustments, but that was a couple years ago, and I haven't heard a thing since.

I am in the process of testing out a new reproduction headliner. Not fiberglass. If it works out, S I will offer it.

The custom build I did back in 2016 is up for sale by the owner. Links to the build are here: Blog – Bez Auto Alchemy. He is asking 75K. Serious inquires and I'll forward his contact information.