Gunslinger

Get one from Myer’s Studebaker, Nostalgic Motors or Studebaker International…at least you’ll know they’re correct. Also…you may well need to bleed the brakes after opening the system up. The best thing to do is convert it to a mechanical brake switch.

It's been many years since I owned a '63 but I know that while the dash is out makes it the right time to do anything with the radio. I don't remember what size the front speaker is...whether it's a 5"x7" or a 4"x10" but either should be easily sourced. The bigger issue is making sure the speaker is of the proper impedance or the sound will be bad. With an original radio which is quite large compared to modern units the selection of speakers isn't good as a speaker with a larger magnet will not work as it won't fit against the top of the radio. There may be some decent speakers available today but you need to check the impedance and vertical dimensions for clearance.

Something else...does your car still have the RFI shielding over the distributor and spark plug wires? If not that could be the source of the noise. Fiberglass has no natural RFI properties and shielding is needed. Spark plug wires could be the cause as spark plugs could be as well if not shielded or resistance rated.

Is the static you hear a constant tone or does it go up and down with engine rpm's? If it stays constant it's ignition noise. If it increases and decreases with rpm's it alternator whine. A condenser in the proper place may take care of it...just need to know where. You can also mount a noise filter in the power lead to the radio. Other possibilities...the antenna itself may have lost ground...make sure it's properly grounded. There's usually a wire from the antenna to a bolt under trunk carpet that's grounded. Also the radio may need the antenna "trimmed"...a lost art few today are aware of. To trim the antenna...remove the right knob on the radio and you'll see a screw above the shaft. Tune the radio to a station...fairly strong...around 1400. Then using a small screwdriver turn the screw until the radio gives best reception. Once you get best reception and sound the antenna is trimmed. You can also spray some electronics cleaner inside the radio...I've seen that clear up noise problems before. If this fixes things you're good to go without buying a new radio. If you feel it necessary to replace the radio...look at Custom Auto Sound. They should have something that's drop-in for the car.

Great to hear. Enjoy the car and lots of smiles to the mile! 👍

I had read accounts say the Due Cento had full belly pan streamlining. I’ve seen no photos of it though.

Contact Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors or Jon Myer at Myer’s Studebaker. I would think one or both of them could be very helpful.

The driveshaft may need balanced.

That's as realistic an attitude a one could have.

The quick steering arms are only worthwhile on cars with the forklift steering box…somewhere in the 1977 time period. On cars prior to that the quick steering arms are not worth it. I put them on the ‘70 Avanti I had and the handling was not improved. My description was that the car’s steering became “darty”.

Contact either Jon Myer at Myer’s Studebaker or Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. Jon Myer may well have a good used one while Dan Booth may have a NOS original.

Why not ask the folks at Newark Carpet?

I'm just wondering if there's a small enough quartz clock mechanism available form a hobby supplier that would fit inside the clock body and use the factory clock face...and the AA-battery could be mounted outside of the clock body under the dash. The factory illumination could be retained...just the guts of the clock replaced.

Engine running the system should be charging at 13.8 volts.

The hydraulic brake switches suffer from a dual problem beyond aversion to silicone fluid…current ones are made offshore now and simply don’t last…and original, well made switches are old enough now that they’re suspect in how well they work for any length of time.

You have "DOT 5" on your master cylinder cap so I assume that's what's in it. Silicone brake fluid is notoriously difficult to bleed all the air out of...the little air bubbles like to hide wherever they can and defy being bled out. If the car had standard DOT 3/4 fluid in it and wasn't completely flushed out and all the hoses replaced you will have spongy brakes or even fail in rare cases. The best performance cars don't use DOT 5 as strong cornering can cause bubbles in the system. DOT 5 also can kill the hydraulic brake switches...why I don't remember but it was explained to me once. The use of DOT 5 might be the cause of your problems.

It was sometime during the '71 model year Avanti Motors switched from the Borg Warner to a GM Hydramatic...not sure whether it was the TH-350 or TH-400.

If you can find Ford Type F…use that. GM Dexron will work but the Type F will give firmer shifts with less slippage. Whatever type you choose flush the transmission first…including the torque converter.

There is a vendor…don’t remember who…that fabricates and sells an Sanden adapter for the Avanti II. You might check with Myer’s Studebaker…Mike Myer may have what you need or know where to get it.

The Borg Warner used in the Avanti II had a different torque converter but otherwise fit the same.

To be straight...few Avanti II automobiles carry great value. It shouldn't be that way but it's the truth. Having said that...an early Avanti II such as a '66 is a great car for restoration...few emissions devices to deal with...lots of performance from the Corvette 327 engine...pretty simple compared to later cars. Outside of the engine and a few other pieces it's all Studebaker and most parts are pretty easily sourced...outside of some Avanti specific trim. Depending on the condition of the frame and hog troughs it would be a fine candidate to rebuild. I've advocated that any Avanti that can be rebuilt should be rebuilt...but I'm realistic enough to know that's that not always economically possible and we do need parts cars to keep other Avantis on the road.

Anything Avanti specific and not general Studebaker parts…such as trim pieces. Some have been and are being reproduced. Some are considered to be unobtantium.

The master cylinder might be the source of the problem. If it’s a non-original master cylinder…it could be from a car that has an identical looking master cylinder but a different bore which can create such an issue.

The ‘70 Avanti I had was equipped with what must have been an aftermarket 4-way flasher unit. Believe me…it was an abomination of wires and connections under the dash. If you’re compelled to have one…I would think Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors is the guy to talk to.

Here’s a way to find an electrical short! 🤣