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Leo B

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Posts posted by Leo B

  1. I dont find Nostalgicmotorcars email address. Only phone number. Would be much easier to contact from Finland with email than have expencive phone call.
    Is there somebody who knows email address?

    Sorry. This should be in other topic: Avanti information😌

  2. Hi, Is here a help? 

    https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Steer/Ragjoint/sdc72759bob.html

    Seems its not the same part you have. Article part is https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Style-3-4-Inch-36-Rag-Joint,41916.html

    Looks like Avantiparts is selling same https://avantiparts.biz/steering-rag-joint-with-flange/

    If you want to use the part you have then maybe drilling like Mr Krueger wrote in Facebook.
    Note that you need a ground wire if there is no ground connection in new Rag Joint you have.

  3. 5 hours ago, Vaaraz said:

    Thanks again Leo,

    Unfortunately, I can't open this document... 😕
    Maybe I can find it online...

    Regarding the Tightsteer system... do you think this could be enough to compensate for the wear already existing on the endless screw ?
    or is it better to redo the screw and install the system in prevention ?

    Writing "endless screw" do you mean about 30mm long Adjusting Screw? If you need longer then you need to check worm gear and the stud which is against worm gear.
    If Ajusting Screw is worn and shorter than 30mm. You need to have or make a new one or buy TightSteer which replace Adjusting Screw.
    Hope this helps 😊
    You can also send me pictures of the parts private if you want.
    Or use my email: leo(at)belik.fi


    I realized now…. you talked about long worm gear and I talked about adjusting the screw. I mixed things up. My mistake. I am sorry😌

     

  4. 3 hours ago, Vaaraz said:

    Great ! Thanks for your help Leo !

    I took this video for you. The adjusting crew keeps against worm gear. TightSteer do the same but pushing with spring.
    I throw this video to trashcan. Too heavy and hires. Next time I use lower resolution.

     

     

  5. 20 hours ago, Vaaraz said:

    Thanks Leo,

    I actually found this piece on Bob Johnstone's website, but I feel like it's just a stopgap.
    Also, I agree, the repair by metal refill does not seem a very durable solution as well to me. 
    I found a workshop in France which can redo the endless screw... remains the question of the price...

    Why is Tightsteer a good idea? Most often you use the cam in the middle area. This means that more metal is consumed from same area. But you can’t adjust the screw to the needs of the middle area (if it’s very worn) because then the end and top are too tight and it’s even dangerous. The Tightsteer (it has a pressure spring) on the cam lever stud has the same contact and pressure in all areas.

    All these are my own conclusions. I will buy Tightsteer but I will not receive a discount on this advert.🤣

  6. On 1/24/2022 at 7:17 PM, silverstude said:

    They show the part #?

    DaytonaR2 is right. You find correct seal from hydraulic parts shop (go lively). There is a seal (with lip) for this like 30 x 22 mm or bigger 32 x 22mm. I didnt get 30 x 22mm which they have in their catalogue. I got better idea... I bought 32 x 22mm and I will took about 2mm off from aluminium part with lathe machine and then it will be 100% perfect size.
     

  7. 2 hours ago, Leo B said:

    I add: Regarding the discussion I think that the best compression will be 7.5 - 8.5 with modern fuels. Thats what I will have.
    How about having shallow / half dished pistons? With half or deep dished pistons the heat is better distributed to the head and to the piston. Flat top piston causes more heat to the head. This might be one reason why many R2 heads where broken.🤔 If somebody has better knowledge I will be glad to read and learn.

  8. 11 hours ago, billsr2 said:

    Bumping this thread. I also have the 976 heads on my R2. However, I have flat top pistons and this engine has composite gaskets. I do not know who built it.

    What am I to suppose my compression ratio is?  Before I redo these heads, I am actively searching for the correct 582 heads which I read to be 67 ccs. Sounds like at least a step in the right direction?  If my bores & pistons check out OK, I could easily trim a few ccs out of the correct heads in the course of chamber work, this should put me in much better shape than I am now?

    What do the experts think?

    Hi Billsr2. I will check 976 Head CR with flat top piston and with dished piston. Please wait.

  9. 17 hours ago, Vaaraz said:

    Thank you Silverstud,

    Yes, I had confirmation that my steering box is original.
    I just misread the reference which is: SE 542989.
    The adjustment is already at the maximum and I know that the endless screw is not available... I believe that the only solution is to "reload" it with metal.
    I am looking for a workshop that can do this in my area...

    Hi, If you need new adjusting screw and If authenticity is not a must, this modern one should work. Still Im very sure the screw can be done by machine in France. Dont think about adding metal or something like that.
    Please check.
    This one has a spring and keeps correct "contact". Read more.

    https://siminoffjeeparts.com/products/tightsteer-model-200-x
  10. Hi Daniel! Am I right you need a cone / steering cam lever shaft studs which works with cam? IMG_2978.jpg

    https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0001003a&uKeY=AARLF

    In image IMG_2973 you see adjusting screw. A new one is easy to do with lathe machine by professional. Adjusting screw is about 30mm long and should not screwed tight, just gentle tightening against the axle without space and so that steering turn easily. If used correctly it will last a very long time. Too tight makes steering hard to turn and spoils steering cam and the cone stud.

    You find an new seal from Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/144193190140

    Like in Silverstudes comment:

    https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Steer/rosstopseal/rosstopseal.html

    I used 3/4 socket when I removed the seal.

    BR Leo

    IMG_2980.JPG

    IMG_2979.JPG

    IMG_2978.JPG

    IMG_2973.JPG

  11. 13 hours ago, Kodjo said:

    I have an 1969 Avanti II with a Ross box 542989. So one 989 instead of 999.

    Leaks like hell thru the top seal. I do not know how the oil can go upwards. I seams to fly out the box somehow. Hate it!

    IMG_0405.thumb.jpeg.fc6c743f1ee74ac76ce3912530249c3e.jpeg

    Hi Kodjo. As you see from the photo. The Steering Cam behaves like pump and press the oil up or down depending on which direction you turn. Turn to right and oil goes up. This is not the meaning but happens because of "screwcam"

  12. 2 minutes ago, mox said:

    Early Avantis had the liner on the drivers side only. It was added to the passenger side later in production. Studebaker International has both pieces. 

    👍Thank you Mox. I will check what I have now.

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