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Leo B

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Posts posted by Leo B

  1. 4 hours ago, MARK said:

    Leo B.  Again to be redundant, thank you so much again. I got the repaired heater core back from Dave Thibeault with a new motor for the fan; after 60 years why not, and new hoses. My pal ed jones came over to help me assemble everything an check out. Your instructions were perfect for removal and also reading backwards, reassembly. I really appreciated your assistance.

    The Avanti & Studebaker Forums are just an amazing source of information and cooperation.

    Mark

    This is why the AOAI exists 👍😊

  2. Thank you South Shore Motors.
    I'm going a little off topic. I also want to highlight the images used in the sale. I have often wondered about sales announcements where there is a car for sale for example over $60,000 or even more, but the pictures are bad and taken with a cell phone. I have recommended that in these cases you should clean and polish the car well and use a professional who has good cameras and knows how to photograph the car and the details. If this costs a few hundred dollars or even a thousand, it's worth it. You get even more back (with experience). Pictures and information are the only things the buyer sees in the online store.

  3. It is really difficult to show the colors of cars in photos. Especially in digital photography and and taken with phone. The only way to try to get close to the actual correct color is to adjust the image so that the original object is same time visible. The difficulty is highlighted especially in iridescent colors, which are greatly affected by light. My Avanti Gray looks way too blue in the latest Avanti magazine photos. I don't know if the color shade of the BAT Avanti Gray is correct, but I remember that there were many pictures of that car and the shade was different in different pictures. Of course, it's a matter of opinion, but some colors go well with one car and some with another. It's about the whole design. Often the original is the right one because it also describes the history of the vehicle which will remain for the next generation.
    In attached photo you should see quite well Avanti Gray. A bluish gray with a hint of purple.
    Edit: It should also be noted that the lowres jpg compressed image changes from the original, and on top of that, we each have our own uncalibrated screen.

    new-hi-res-web-stude-63.jpg

  4. 3 minutes ago, South Shore Motors said:

    I don't know if auto and manual cars shared the same harness, but based on my car (an automatic), your wire identification is correct. #1 would be for backup lights, #2 is neutral-safety switch (looks like the black connector/wire loop has been used to bypass the switch) and #3 is shift indicator lamp. I would say that either your car has a wire harness from an automatic, or they shared the same harness.

    Thank you South Shore Motors. I think now that 4-speed and Auto share same harness. I can leave them where they are and connect Back-Up Switch when I got that.
    🙏

  5. Please help. My 4-Speed T-10 missing Back-Up (reverse) Light Switch. I have just bracket. Need to buy new switch. Stude is originalty 4-speed .
    What are these wires? I havent test yet but I guess #1 is for Back-UP Light Switch. Are #2 and #3 for Automatic? Neutral Switch and Shift lamp?back-up-light-switch.thumb.jpg.1b1c08ed2b5ddc5adf020c7d34514e36.jpg

  6. 13 hours ago, Fourward said:

    Leo, no the problem wasn't solved. I put it on and it didn't work for the third time. The top pump looks just like mine.

    UPDATE. I got a new pump, it looks exactly like the other one. BUT, as I took the other pump off, the spring that moves the arm popped out. The arm seemed very easy to pump in the first place. The new pump that I got seems very hard to move the arm. Good thing that spring did not come off in the cavity. Anyway, I put a borescope in there, observed that the eccentric was going around, stopped it where it would be easy to install the pump like Dwight said. Installed pump. I am going to test it tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

    It should be stiff when you try to pump by hand. The main reason for the breakdown of pumps is a broken diaphragm. Another reason is a leak, allowing air to enter. The third reason is that the fuel lines are blocked.
    I have also new pump (R2) and works well. Before installing the pump, check if the fuel line is open between the pump and the carburetor. Also check if the line is open in the carburetor as well. I'm assuming fuel gets to the pump without air. When you attach the connectors to the pump, use a pipe lock. I use Loctite 542 thread sealant for fine metal threads, especially for hydraulic pipes. Of course, you can also use other recommended thread seal.

    Edit: When I repair mechanics, I first look at the whole solution and what factors affect the solution and thus the problem. I would approach it step by step. 1. does the pump get fuel? 2. is fuel coming out of the pump? 3. does fuel also enter the carburettor (into the floats)? 4. does the fuel transfer to the intake manifold? 5. possible leaks.

  7. 11 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:

    I have a 1963 Avanti Color & Upholstery Selector book.  According to it Avanti Gray was available with upholstery combinations 6, 7, 8, 9.  6 = black, 7 = red, 8 = orange, 9 = turquoise.  A cool color (gray) and a warm color (orange) certainly do go together.  Looks good to me!

    DSCN0094.JPG

    I have to admit. It looks great in the picture.👍

  8. On 12/30/2023 at 5:30 AM, psdenno said:

    As others have said, your car, your choice.  My R2 was originally white with orange interior.  When I bought it in 1975, it was 12 years old and the paint had already been changed from white to red and then to yellow, and finally to green.  The interior was also green.  All of those colors had made the previous owners briefly happy.

    I stripped the car of four layers of paint to bare fiberglass and had it painted white.  I've had orange upholstery and appropriately colored salt & pepper style carpet in storage for years and 2024 may be the year it gets installed and the Avanti gets a new coat of white paint.

    Orange upholstery is visually striking and might go well with a grey exterior.  I think I'd drape the seats with large orange towels to check out how it looks with grey before having it reupholstered, however.

    Enjoy your Avanti!

     

    Avanti Gray is an iridescent color and contains blue and purple. I think only Black or Metallic Red will go with it. Metallic Red is quite dark and shiny and forms a good balance with iridescent Avanti Gray and Fawn. Orange is too yellow, bright and warm and works well with a warm white car. I would trust what professional designers have once planned.

    mine-gray.jpg

  9. 17 hours ago, Tom Lassiter said:

    The trunk latch on my ‘63 doesn’t always catch, and when it does, an unusual amount of pull on the cable is required to get it open. I’ve lubed the latch itself, but where are the lube points on the cable? Or is it just wise to replace it?

    The old trick with motorcycles: inject oil with a syringe and a thin needle that fits between the shell and the cable. This way you can lubricate the entire cable. 

    IMG_4591.jpeg

  10. 18 hours ago, Kodjo said:

    I'm confused. Avanti II has an chevy engine. My assumptions was/is that they came with a Chevy sensor. So, when the reading was low, I bought a new Chevy sensor but the readings did not change.

    Inside the gauge are 2 bi-metals covered with wire. One bi-metal is for the correction of voltage fluctuation, the other goes to the sensor. Is this setup equal to the Studebaker?

    I assume the gauge itself is like the Studebaker. My Avanti is from '69 and the S logo is all over the car. Today I found this decode table for SW gauges. My G10 seems to be made in October 1963. This should be according to the Studebaker specification.

    image.jpeg.b15914ef944cb8951229eb883689cdcf.jpeg

    As I understand it, the gauge and the sensor/sender are pairs. If the motor is different but same gauge, water, volts and wires, I can't find an explanation why the sensor has to be different in terms of resistance. I have a 1963 and a SW G2. Seems you have a similar gauge, I think you need the same level of resistance in the sensor. I can't say if Stude and Chevy differ in sensor attachment or external aspects.
    I recommend to call or email https://mystudebaker.com/electric/tachometer-temperature-senders/
    I think they know what they sell. #1545220 for your gauge ???
    Also note that might be you gauge is not working well.
     

  11. 1 hour ago, pantera928 said:

    So are you saying that the Stewart Warner gauges that are used in the original and the Avanti IIs  is expecting a different resistance than it was designed for?

    Forgive me for being confused om this. Do we all need to recalibrate our gauges in the Avanti IIs?

    THanks

    No. I was trying to make the case that the resistors/senders on the Studebaker Avanti are different than the Avanti II, even though the gauge looks the same. It amazed me. I apologize if I presented the matter unclearly.

  12. Hi, I threw over year ago old temperature sensor when I rebuilt engine and ordered new sensor. Dont remember from where but from Stude part Vendor or Rockauto anyway. Intalled that and my water temperature Gauge does not work. With zero resistance shows maximum so technically ok.
    a) I measured sensor resistance and ohm meter shows water boiling temperature 170 Ohms. Is this correct?
    b) I found article that Stude Avanti sensor should be in boiling water about 56-58 Ohms. I this correct #1545220?

    Did Steward Warner Gauge in Avanti 1963 use a) or b) version sensor?

     

    Edit...
    Seems I found the answer. S/W Gauge is for 33 – 240 Ohms. b) Sensor #1545220 should be correct. a) Dont know which one I have. Looks very same.

    https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Text3/temperature_gauge.txt

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