Leo B
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Posts posted by Leo B
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4 hours ago, Avanti83 said:
Another vote for SEM vinyl dye. I used the spray cans to change the vinyl interior color on my 74.
It needs to be sprayed in thin coats but turns out nice.
I used a combination of gloss and satin on mine.
Great! Nice result😎👍
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Thank you! Yes. They told me it is possible to get the exact color I want. They mix it up. So it is possible to get light red interior material and paint to Electric Red like vinyl was originally. Im not in hurry, but like to spare original ones to future and use new ones. The cushions needs to be replaced anyway. Interior is possible to do here by professional but right color seems to be the problem. Sem paint might solve this.👍
Here you see my Avanti interior. Just small tears and old cushion.
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Has anybody tested Sem product? Color/paint for vinyl and leather. I called to Finnish distributor and they gave me great promises.
If works then possible use light tan vinyl material and paint to correct red etc.
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Hi, I have installed new gaskets to pump. Didnt open big cap because it was very tight and no leak. After reassembly I noticed a small spring on my table. Where it belongs?
I dont think its from pump. Not clean.
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I noticed a picture in Workshop Manual where the tube is without bracket. Maybe early version like I have. Also different than yours. I noticed also that without braket the tube will shake against manifold. Not good. Bracket is a must.
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🤓Hi again. I found this from same article I wrote a link:
Mr Mike M. Wrote a comment: Be sure to use a grommet and washer, in the lid, that allow the reservoir to vent. Most kits contain parts for Fords that vent from the fill stack. They do a nice job of sealing the Stude reservoir, until it gets hot and forces fluid out.
Mr Rautio who wrote the article and added seals didnt red this comment well. I think🤔
Edit: Part Catalogue shows: 1553299 Reservoir Stud Washer + 1548198 Washer, plain (special) + Wing Nut.
In Workshop Manual is written: Install the reservoir cover, a new cover gasket, a new wing nut rubber gasket, a flat steel washer and the wing nut.
I belive parts catalogue and leave all gaskets/rubbers which covers the hole/valve and let the tank (reservoir) to breath. Lets see when I get gasket kit from SI. -
Hi Billsr2.
I think that tank needs air and hole/vent like a breather. Oil level changes when oil flows thru the tank. Seals will close the hole/vent. This way there is a vacuum or overpressure in the tank and pump. Does not work well.
I dont think this is correct https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/sbca96/stupspump/stupspumpreb.html Scroll bottom of the page. What do you think?
Ford used Eaton Pump version which had separate filler cap which seems to have breather vent (stick also). No need to open the cover. Maybe seals are for that version.
You see in the other photo from Ford which has the similar tank cover idea as Eaton in Stude without seals which seems to correct for me. Then the washer with holes is not an original one but a good idea.
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Please advice. Here you see cleaned cover before paint. You find small hole on the cover. Normally this kind of hole is for air and to avoid pressure. I have also a small plate with holes. No seals. I think the plate with three holes is not original.
Should there be seals which close the small hole or…?I think the kit which SI sells includes seals to cover also.
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Hi again. I spend hour in my garage and found this way to be best and now works fine. Please check photos. Three outside and one as a shim.
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Hi, please help. I can't find direct alignment with the steering arm/rod. Should there be spacers or ...? I have 4 washers which was used. I think the wrong alignment was the reason why the plastic steering column lower brush was broken (partially).
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Hi. If the part is this https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p71/Steering_Flange_%26_Insulator%2C_63-85___many_other_Studebakers.html#/
I dont see ground in Flange Just to make sure: Please check that you have ground contact for Horn like the old one. If not... you can use wire to make a jumper over the flange.
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DONT!
I did. There are no threads🤪Now repaired.
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Yes. Looks like simple separate part. 👍 Easy to do. I can measure myself because engine is on rack and have not installed Oil Pan and Breather yet. Thanks! Great help Dwight 😊
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Hi, I noticed that my R2 dont have Oil Pan Breather Bracket. I mean the bracket which is between breather tube and manifold. I dont even see marks that it has been on tube. The bracket is not a separate part in parts catalogue. I don't think it's safe to have the attachment just at the bottom. Will probably have to do one.
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Thank you👍😊
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Please check photo. Correct?
When heated the weight turns down and helps to open.🤔
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Hi DaveDee, I have not Tightsteer but I understant that the meaning is not to repair worm gear which is in bad condition. I have learned that Tightsteer works so that the adjusting screw has a suspension that allows better contact over a wide range. Like to buy one. Before that lot to do with my project.
I suggest you open your Steering Box and check condition. -
How many Avantis had inverted reservation tank version? Filling cap is on drivers side.
#1001 Engine #1002. More? Was this only one?
I dont know answer. Maybe you know🤔
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Thanks Kodjo. Yes I have. I got the kit and it contains more than I need. I think part 5. is inside the cylinder you see in the previous picture. I wanted to make sure because I have to break the old one to get it off. To me seems that one seal and alu ring are not needed.
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7 minutes ago, Leo B said:
How to remove the rod?
If its not ment to take apart, do I replace this rubber seal? Repair kit had 2pc. One not need?
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How to remove the rod?
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Instead of Cadmium = Matte Zinc Plating. This is very near old cadmium. Note it has to be matte.
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I have learned that there is no single truth. In those years, car and motorcycle manufacturers bought parts from subcontractors as needed. Manufacturers did not purchase parts for the full year need. This means that the parts may be different during the year. Some rotors might be painted, some not. Might be that there are two facts. I learned this when I was restoring my Italian bikes.
In this advert you see unpainted rotor. Might be prototype???
http://www.ritzsite.nl/63Stude/05_63stude.htm -
7 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:
FWIW, there are obvious mistakes in authenticity manual. For example, it shows an "original" fuel pump. Since it has 8 screws, it is one of the retrofitted mopars. The picture you show from SI is a repop hub/rotor. I have 6 sets of rotor/hub on my shelve. So far they have all been painted silver. That is why I am questioning.
Yes, You are right about fuel pump. I have original one to compare.
Quiet days on this forum
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Leo B
Hello, About: Quiet days in this forum.
I like to use this forum because all the technology topics of interest are easy to find here. I also find good information and experience here. I am retired and a fine mechanic by training. I’ve restored a few motorcycles (like the Laverda, Moto Guzzi, BSA Gold Star, one Volvo P1800, and restored and raced a Rickman Matchless G50). I hope that I can give you also something.
I wrote a few texts to AOAI Facebook, but I feel that’s not the place to write about technical issues. Facebook is a social flow, and nothing will be saved next week. Facebook is nice and great, but better just for social chat. Facebook and Forum can complement each other with different functions.
I suggest AOAI to advise Facebook users (in the title) to use this forum for technical issues.