Dwight FitzSimons

Anyone who doesn't think that 4 door cars can be cool should look at yours. Nice job!

Here is the URL: https://www.worldwidevintageautos.com/vehicles/20939/1963-studebaker-avanti-r2 --Dwight

These guys may be of help. I don't know if they can supply a steering column, but at least they advertise that they fix them correctly. --Dwight

Just have the one, and it's going on 56J no.1. Both of my 56Js have P.S., but I've become shiftless in my old age and will stick with automatics. --Dwight

'63 or '64? AFAIK the rear arm rests are the same for both years, but the front arm rests are a little different on top. Perhaps, hopefully, either year could be used for your car. --Dwight

AFAIK, all modern cars have their air cleaner on the engine, but with a hose leading out to behind the grille in order to bring in fresh air. So, Studebaker had the right idea, just didn't implement it very well. For my car I'm stuck with the factory setup, which at least, is better than the R2's air cleaner. But, ideally, one could leave the air cleaner where it is on an R2 and do major surgery on the air cleaner and fender apron to bring in fresh air. The fresh air could be sourced from a hole in the fiberglass to the left (i.e., passenger side) of the radiator (behind the grille). Oldsmobile implemented a fresh-air intake well in the '60s on the 442. --Dwight

This is a good topic for discussion. I have an R3 Avanti that I will soon be putting back together, so I have a near-term need to know. I would assume that rotating the air cleaner so that the intake is pointed toward the grille would achieve a bit of ram-air effect. One wouldn't want to ever drive in the rain, though! --Dwight, R-5407, R3, 4-spd

Avanti63! is exactly correct. The same "can" is used on '64 R2 Avantis and '63-'64 R2 Larks & Hawks, just with different brackets depending on the application. There was an article in Turning Wheels about these air cleaners a while back. Someone may have that issue handy. We need more pictures to identify this one. --Dwight

It's definitely not original, so it's a guessing game as to what it might have been intended to do. Brake lights? Oil pressure idiot light? Parking light brake light?

IIRC the R3 air cleaner is the same "can", but with different mounting brackets, and it's mounted behind the grille. See below.

Thanks!

A picture would help. But, it's not stock in any event. --Dwight

Not sure what you have, but below are '63 & '64 R2 air cleaners. These were the only air cleaners used on '63 & '64 R2 Avantis. --Dwight

I just tried it again & it works for me. I assume the reason the link doesn't work for you is that I go through the login process (and you, of course, can't go through my login process). So, I don't know how to post a link that will work for others. Maybe log onto Facebook and search Mass. & '63 Avanti. --Dwight

Try an auto body supply store for the dum-dum. Or, is there some type of caulk in a tube that would never dry (sort of like dum-dum)? IIRC, the hose that loops down through the sail panel is used to vent the fuel tank. And, Avantis used that so they could use a sealed gas cap - correct? I assume that the thought was that gas could slosh out through a vented gas cap and damage the paint. Correct or not? So, is there really a danger of fuel sloshing out a vented cap? If not perhaps one could cap off the vent tube on top of the fuel tank & use a vented cap. Thoughts? --Dwight

Here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1528583763951075/?multi_permalinks=3785979311544831 The car appears to be a reasonably good car that deserves to survive.

Ok, will do tomorrow (Wed). Attached is a copy of the receipt of what I think was the second booster. If it didn't get there I will have to file a claim with the USPS. --Dwight

I assume that the reason R2s didn't have carb enclosures is that it was cheaper to seal the carb. Plus, accessing the carb is a bit more difficult with the enclosure. But, they impress people so much that a fellow once tried to buy the enclosure on my R3. --Dwight

One comment: These wheels are made of thinner steel than modern wheels and can be bent by a modern tire mount/dismount machine. I had it happen once. Of course, once they are bent they are ruined. --Dwight

Good point. I would think that one might be able to hang the capscrews with just the heads in the solution, but would have to try it to find out. --Dwight

Eastwood has a small electroplating system, for something like $150. A lot of small things under the hood of an Avanti, like these screws, would benefit from this plating. --Dwight

I guess I could paint the blower, then replace the capscrews one at a time with unpainted ones. I agree that unpainted ones look better.

I hadn't heard of coated rotors until recently, but I think they are a good improvement, both for function & appearance. I assume that the coated rotors & calipers will rust eventually (like everything under the car), but at least that will be delayed & reduced. I have repro Halibrands on my Studes, so appearance matters there. All of my modern cars have see-thru aluminum wheels, so the rotors & calipers are visible. The Olds is a 2003 Aurora Final 500, and although it's a backup driver at this point, it has sentimental value too. All the mechanic said was that there was rust on the inner surface of the rotor. I assume that means rust on the wiped surface, which likely means that either: 1) the car isn't driven enough & lives outside (true), or 2) the caliper is sticking and not pressing hard enough on the rotor. It's a one-cylinder, sliding caliper, so either the piston is sticking or the sliding mechanism is sticking, or 3) both. One other possibility, and I have seen this on Studebaker rotors, is rust on the periphery (& the hub side) of the rotor advancing so far that it "rounds off" the inner & outer edges of the pads. Technically, at least, that would change the coefficient of friction a little bit (between the rotor & pad) because iron oxide is harder than iron (or steel). I used to laborously chip off that rust buildup on my Stude rotors with a chisel. --Dwight

"Talked with HR&B today. Turns out that only Studes with the master under the floor need the valving not the Avanti. And no problems clearing my Halibrands. Ordered the kit today." More information that should be shared with all. One thing I will add: One might want to ensure that the rotors and calipers are "coated." After having my Olds flunk inspection due to rust on a 2yo rotor I'll never again buy uncoated rotors or calipers. I paint those on my Studebakers, but the factory coating is probably better and painting them is a hassle. So, if Turner's & HR&B's full kits don't include coated rotors & calipers then one might think about buying their basic kit & buying the rotors & calipers at NAPA, or other FLAPS. --Dwight

Good job! Great! Now I can catch up on my sleep. Thanks. --Dwight