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Everything posted by 64studeavanti

  1. Are you sure that the boost reference line from the S/C to the fuel pump is connected and functioning properly? How about the electric pump restricting the flow. The electric pump should be set a little high on pressure and a regulator should be used with a boost reference line.
  2. The 2 63s I own have fully enclosed fan shrouds. The 64 has an open bottom. I do not know if the 64 is stock. I strongly suspect the 63s are. All are R1s with A/C.
  3. Is there a letter from Studebaker dated 11/11/63 specifying the price change? Enquiring minds want to know.
  4. My R1s have tags that state United. So, I posit #1.
  5. IMO, not much. The desirable options are Super Charger, 4Speed, and A/C for R1.
  6. The part number is the same for all Avanti engines, so I will say true.
  7. You could try clock works (clockwks.com) for a conversion. Otherwise, a quick search brings up several DIY kits
  8. How about sending the old one off for a quartz conversion?
  9. I have seen worse. Sometimes there is nothing left of the vertical posts.
  10. Look for Cowles ProtektoTrim. I bought some from carid.
  11. My understanding is that the inventory of steering wheels was purchased by Stephen Allen. I do not believe there were any Avanti wheels. It appears that Studebaker Reproductions has the molds etc. At least that is how it appears based on the similarity of the web postings to that of the Shrocks. https://studebakerreproductions.com/steering-wheels
  12. I have never found a source for new or repop steering wheels. That said, good used ones do show up occasionally. The go to guys for rebuilding, Shrock Brothers, retired. They were a little pricey, but did outstanding work. I believe someone has picked up their business. (Maybe Studebaker Reproductions?) If you have a repairable core, you could look at Steering Wheel Bob or Gary's Steering Wheel Restoration.
  13. Agree with Paul. Both of the automatics I have worked on have pilot bushings.
  14. Agree with lifting rear under differential. If 81 is similar to earlier models, I usually place floor jack under the center steering bell crank.
  15. The 582 heads were used on R2 engines as well as some trucks.
  16. You can buy new from partsgeek for $86. https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/15656-01081557.html
  17. If it is R3, the casting number on the large port heads is 1555479.
  18. R3 would have reliefs cut into the block for the valves.
  19. IIRC, the quiet tone exhaust system from Studebaker had the H crossover pipe and resonators as well as oval mufflers. Not sure what the mufflers were packed with, but I believe they were of a straight thru design.
  20. I use the Hagerty valuation tool as a guide. Condition really matters. Driver quality cars are worth much less than show. Most owners believe their car is in better condition than it really is. Assuming a good condition #3 driver, about $30,000 is the ball park. For driver cars, the paint color probably does not detract much. The wheels are another matter. Original Halibrands may not be in the best of condition. Magnesium does not hold up well. Repro aluminum ones cost around $350 each a few years ago. That was without the spinners.
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