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workshop manual specifies J9Y, however, service letter updates this to J12Y with J10Y being one step colder as Dwight states.

Thanks to all!

I agree with the others assessment of this Avanti… I’d only add that round light Studebaker Avanti are somewhat ‘hot’ items right now, and this one may not be all that difficult to put back into at least ‘driveable’ condition…. I’d peg it’s value at 5K with a clean title.

One problem is that it's lacking paper work. Yeah, I'm really hoping the frame and hogtroughs are good enough where that would not be its fate.

A worthwhile restoration project for somebody who wants to do it. Please don't part it out. Although it may be solid, the Frame is rusty and IMHO the hogtroughs are likely to be thinning out. Might I suggest, pumping the tyres, wash it all over, shift it off that block to a more bucolic setting and photograph the daylights out of it- the good as well as the bad. Offer it at a fair price and sell it to somebody on the condition they don't scrap it. Post it at $4500 firm and see how you fare.

Oh, I think I was looking at the original "bard find" thread. Looks great even with the layer of dust! https://aoai.org/forums/topic/43609-i-would-like-to-let-the-avanti-world-know-i-have-a-barn-find-64-that-will-be-going-up-for-auction-in-november-it-is-a-64-r1-and-is-completely-apart-the-auction-will-be-in-hudson-fl-and-will-be-an-online-auction/ That would something I was wondering about. I was presuming that the hog throughs are more often as issue. I don't know how thick they are, but they do sound not that substantial when knocking on it. I don't know how the interior looks in pictures, but seems it would all need to be replaced. Feels like it couldn't be saved.

I purchased a 64 R1, with A/C and auto, last fall for $4500. This car spent its life in Florida so frame, hog troughs etc were in great condition. It was apart, but complete, with a claimed rebuilt engine and transmission. There were many new parts in boxes including parking lamp assemblies, body rubber gasket set and dash pad. Your hog troughs seem to be ok, but the frame sure looks crusty.

IIRC (and I may not), the factory recommendation was Champion J-12Y, or J-10Y (a colder plug) if fouling occurs). Champion J-12Y crosses to NGK XR4. Some on the forum have recommended Autolite 437. Others have recommended Bosch 7517. --Dwight

Man, I don't know if my opinion is worth much here, What I see/read wrong is 54 years of sitting and a few years in outside in Northern climate is sounding like a lot of resto going forward. You've got a good parts car or from someone far more ambitious than me a resto. So maybe $4 to 5k and expect to get beaten down on that price.

Factory recommendation was Champion J-10Y. While many have specific brands of spark plugs they liked any brand that cross references to that will work. Of course...any brand catalog that lists Studebaker Avanti will have their own recommendation but who knows how many companies list Studebaker anymore? Many years ago I worked for JC Penney in their auto center. I used their house brand spark plugs in the '63 R1 I owned at the time...they worked just fine. The JC Penney brand spark plugs and tuneup parts were made for them by Prestolite. That was before so many parts were made offshore.

Front of hog trough.

Frame tag is 63R 252x 40k miles, factory A/C R1, power windows, AM radio. 3-speed, White with fawn and orange interior. My father was original owner, purchased new. Been in storage since the late 70s. It hasn't been driven in years though. Interior it looks like would need to be replaced. Was garage kept, except for the past couple years. Located on the East coast. I know that can be a factor. But I banged on a hog trough and it felt good. Little rust that I could see on the hog trough.

What plugs should be used on my '63 R2? ...appreciate thoughts & thanks.

Well, I've fitted a fan clutch "heavy duty". That works perfectly: No screaming belts and a constant 185 dgF on the gauge. For the interested: Hayden 2747 did the trick on af chevy 350 from '69.

That would make a good trivia question! I’d guess the two floors are quite different.

That kind of sums it up. I know the '87's have a different frame, and *largely*/ the same body, but are the seat mounts the same?

Jon, text me at 702-205-0247. I have a 1987 available.

More details of the Saturn piece referenced by Gunslinger are here: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Avcool/airdam.html Installation instructions and part numbers are on that website. The prices won't be the same, that's for sure, and one may find it difficult tracking down said chin spoiler. The 2009 update to the above site says Mr. Morris fabricated his own out of aluminum. That might be the best comparable solution at this time.

Then You probably need to spread Your search out to other years and options. I've bought 2 Avanti's over a Years Time. My needs here are far different than Texas... for sure. One I bought off of Hemmings and it was advertised elsewhere as well.. the other came from this site.

Looks like the majority of 1987+ are convertibles? That's really the only deal breaker. Life is complicated enough without having a convertible. In Texas it is so hot you can only put the top down a few months of the year without baking alive.

RQB3263 STILL WORKING FINE.....i see no downside ....BILL IN FLORIDA

Pretty specific things your looking for. I suggest You scan thru the ones for sale here.

I am looking to buy a 1987 to 1991 Avanti with GM frame. Probably not a convertible. Can be non running and/or need work. Would consider 4 door. Wanting to buy in $5K to $15K range depending on needs. Call Jon at 214 212 2501 or reply with your info

My wiper switch on my 63 is not operating and from the looks of it someone has been inside it and really made a mess of things. I have had the wiper motor refurbished so I know it is good. So thinking of my options for a new switch I need to understand the motor. Is this a one speed wiper motor or two speed? I know with the resistor in the stock switch the motor can run at variable speeds. Also the wiring, I have figured out the Purple is 12V power, Blue is Park, Black runs the motor and Yellow runs the motor both at the same speed, the Red wire I am not sure about. Two options for a new switch are: painless performance 80173 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80173?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rF3w6s_hYsAhZzta2WkVzqJMnKrJBIrmyKQXgc3aWIEUEIfbS_lxMxoCugAQAvD_BwE) cole hersee 75601 (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-75601-14-BX-Switch-Dyn-Brk/dp/B005E9Z6EW?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U) I am also installing a small electric washer motor for the spray option and hope to adapt the original knob to the new switch. Another thought is to take the switch to a local electric shop and see if they can put new parts inside. Anyone use either of the suggested switches or is there one someone has adapted for use? Thanks for any help, Tom