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The 1963 & 1964 six cylinder Studebakers used a 3 speed Flightomatic.

Wonderful Leo!

Hi Steve. Are you driving or flying to the meet? I’m going to the show also. Is there any way to bring the shroud? What do you need for it?

Thanks mgf. Yep I thought the same thing. Twin Track is not a must for sunday cruising use (like I do). But when something interests you and you want to find out and learn ... 🙂 😄 Good to know you have a case if I need it. BTW. Your shipment is here for pickup. I'll pick it up next Tuesday from post office.

Even though the Hurst with Dave's handle is far superior to the stock, I just really am big on authenticity. I know that sounds silly but that's the mechanical feel that I'm after. His handles look great but I just would like to put in the real mccoy. Dwight, if you have one that would be great!

The master cylinder might be the source of the problem. If it’s a non-original master cylinder…it could be from a car that has an identical looking master cylinder but a different bore which can create such an issue.

Hi Leo… can’t answer your question, however if things don’t work out with the TT differential, I have an ‘open’ differential case in good shape for a ‘44’….. Frankly, if you don’t race your Avanti or drive it in slippery, adverse conditions, an open differential case is sometimes easier to live with… Just my opinion!

Hmmm!… Did you use a driveshaft from a ‘63 or ‘64 Lark ‘6’ two speed automatic? That could account for the 1” longer shaft.. since a pre ‘63 cast iron Flightomatic ‘6’ auto trans would use the same length shaft as any V8 built on the 109–109 1/2 wheelbase….including Avanti…. Ed PS… Steve’s idea of measuring things up is a very good one though!

My experience after ruining 2 V-8 transmissions is that the 6 cylinder driveline is about 1” longer than the V-8. be sure to measure any driveline you use and don't install one that is longer than it should be. Steve

You nailed it Brad. The light flickers when I shift. I put a temporay circuit break where the fuse goes and it trips with movement of the shifter. That's where it's shorting.

Thanks Jim. Pb

63Avanti Parts. Part #1560653. Dished discs and the kit are not available anymore. Avanti Shop Manual shows Fig 16. 1 Dished / concave plate and 2 plates and 2discs. Reassembly text sama page tells also same. These should work. But I dont know total thick. I will test: 1 dished plate 0.095" pointing towards disc 0.064", plate 0.064", disc 0.064", plate 0.064". This combo will pressure (preload) dished plate 0.0866" (2,20 mm) when reassambly has done. Lets see how much torque this will give.

With the engine off, I depressed the brake pedal and it was firm. When I started the engine, the pedal went down. I think this would indicate the booster was in fact working. So I'm stumped again as too why it still takes tons of pressure on the pedal to stop this car. I'm still open to suggestions. I bleed all the air out startin with the passenger rear cylinder, driver's side, front passenger caliper and the driver's caliper.

On my '72, the pivot bolt is 20.5 inches above the armrest. I put the retractor down inside, removing the ashtray and running the belt up through where the ashtrays would have sat.

What you need is an artist or old school sign painter. We have become paralyzed by tech.

All done here?

Hey Jim- you might want to look at these pages on Boosters before you go further... This has been helpful to me. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Brakes/Boosters/avantiboosters.html

Assuming that everything else in the system is up to par it would have to be the booster. I had a booster in my '64 Avanti go bad in Feb. and the symptoms were similar to your car. Stephen Allen in Florida, at that time, had two rebuilt boosters in stock. Their firm rule is that they have to have your rebuildable core in their hands before they will ship you a rebuilt one. The rebuilt booster cured the problem and works well. If you don't have an original core they can be found stashed away by SDC members. --Dwight

I'll second that vote for Dave's shifter. I have one of his in my '64 Avanti. The top is turned down & threaded to accept the stock knob. The handle (rod) looks just like the original, except that it's not tapered. The original had a slight taper from bottom to top. You would have to be told that it lacks that taper to see it. The Hurst shifts a whole lot better than the stock el-cheapo shifter. If you want one, though, I may have one in the basement. --Dwight

I just installed the Turner brakes on the front of my 72 Avanti replacing the factory Bendix brakes. I also put new wheel cylinders, shoes and turned the drums on the back. All air bleed out. And low and behold there is absolutly no difference in braking. I have to almost use both feet to stop the car! And it will creep forward in idle if I let up on the pedal a bit. Would this be the indicator of a bad booster? The original Bendix booster was replaced by the previous moron with a Ford Galaxie conversion unit. It's getting vacuum, but I don't think it's working. Before I spend another $400 on getting the original booster rebuilt, I need to know if it will solve the problem.

There is usually a flat washer gasket sold with the kits, as well as a grommet that goes around the stud on the lid. don't use the grommet, as it is meant for the Ford type with the vented dipstic cap and lid. use the flat washer so the dimples on the top are open under the washer for venting.

Do you just want the look of the original shifter? or are you wanting it for concourse judging? There are stock looking round handles that fit the Hurst "guts" available that look completely stock on the inside including shifter placement, and the round boot too. Dave Thiebault sells the handle.

Looking at the Avanti parts book and service manual, it only shows 2 discs using the same part #, the center plate and 2 outer concave plates with the same part #. I'm wondering if your kit is incorrect. It also shows the 2 concave plates being installed with the dish pointing towards the discs.

Nelson i am in Washington State. i will be attending the international next month.

My Avanti Twin Track was not working and when I opened it up, I noticed that some plates were missing. So there was no friction. I ordered new Spicer 22233X kit. Including (per axle): One concave plate 0.095" one plate 0.064", one plate 0.095" and two discs 0.095". Now... The total is too thick. According to my measurements, if the concave plate is 0.095", then all four should be about 0.060 - 0.064 thick when the concave plate is pressed to about 40-50% preload. I can find plenty of pages with installation instructions, but I can't find any information on the original thickness of the plates and discs. Do you have any information?