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The water pump I used is from Jeggs. I incorrectly called it a racing water pump. It's basicly a heavy duty high flow pump. I also took out the old surge tank and and put in an inline filler spout in the upper radiator hose like the later models. I think that will aid in getting out more air. I can't accurately set the timing until I can idle the engine. The instructions that came with the new engine specificly stated not to let it idle until break in was complete.

Here is another option for R1 plugs. https://www.ngk.com/ngk-4536-xr45-v-power-spark-plug

Many states have converted their registration systems to standardized software that "require" certain features like the now-standard VIN format. Vehicle serial numbers that were already in the system were somehow grandfathered in by either adding leading zeros or by a software mod that permitted them to exist as is. Most of the DMV people one deals with were not even born yet when the current 17-digit VIN system started in 1981, so they simply repeat the "requirement" that all vehicles have a standard VIN. They are simply repeating the current thinking, despite the fact that virtually no vehicle built before that time had a serial number with the now-standard number of digits. You may have to escalate the battle to a DMV deputy director, or some such. A letter to your local state legislator might help, too.

Message to Bob Johnstone…. Hi Bob.., if you check any of the rosters sent out to AOAI members over the last several years, you’ll see that every 1985 Avanti listed has its internal four digit serial number preceded by the letters RQB. I feel that ‘AAV’ did not become the standard prefix until the 1987 model year Avantis… Thanks, Ed ( Of course, when it comes time to register a 1985 Avanti, it’s the seventeen digit VIN number that only counts!)

Hi, is there any chance that you have the old AC Blower Switch (that still works), that you want to sell? Mine is shot and I tried to replace it with one out of an Avanti II, that requires grinding and sawing the operating shaft to use the existing Knob. I did all that Ok but had to add a washer to the mounting plate (due to the size difference), and now the shaft is too short to hold the knob in place, but it operates fine.

I have used Evaporust in the past, just not for that specific usage. The product works amazingly well.

That sounds right Dwight… but try to find H14Y’s (a Champion plug I always liked) at your local FLAPS quick & in a hurry!!!

IIRC Champion J12Y plugs were specified by Studebaker for both R1s and R2s. The modern number might be RJ12YC. H14Y plugs were spec'd for 259 & 289 engines J10Y plugs were used on R3s (J10Y are colder than J12Y) This is IIRC, so someone correct me. --Dwight P.S., Autolite 437 & Bosch 7517 have also been recommended previously on the SDC Forum

Yes you are right… but at this point in time the J12Y’s seem to be a reliable, easily found, universal fit…. (If there actually is such a thing!) And, I’m my opinion, this plug also works well on ‘non-R’ Studebaker V8’s!

Sorry, I donated them to the Studebaker Garage at the Harrington WA car show in May as part of their fund raising raffle. I didn’t forsee ever having a 289 again and thought maybe someone else could put them to good use. Mike

AD, were you happy with the tinting? Did it help cool the interior at all? Mike

Thanks for sharing. This might be something that one of our larger Studebaker parts suppliers could manufacture. --Dwight

Fabulous job Pb

Does a racing water pump circulate more water or less water. I would think less water to not use extra HP?

I had my windows tinted without removing them. I had to try a few shops before I found one that was willing to tackle it. It turned out great but I'm sure it was not easy to do the rear window. You may need to spend some time taking the car to different shops and getting estimates - some of them may be ridiculously high in hopes that you'll go elsewhere.

The R2 takes different plugs though. I talked with Jon Meyer the other day and I think he said HR5. Unfortunately the piece of paper I wrote it on got brake cleaner on it and no more writing. I hate to call him back up.

did you sell the plugs

The Champion RJ12-Y’s I installed in my ‘63 R2 seem to go on forever!

No, I’ve never tried that…. but I have used aircraft wing tank ‘sloshing compound’ …which did an effective job encapsulating the rust in an Avanti’s I once owned fuel tank.

Any recommendations for spark plugs for my R1. Some brands seem to perform better than others.

Hi all, I have a gas tank with medium rust inside.... has anyone ever used a product called "Evaporust" to clean out the tank? any comments?

About your defroster breaks, this https://frostfighter.com/ might help you. Maybe even to the point of sheering off the factory ones and installing a whole new stick on grid? They work more effectively shorter [they have min & max lengths] and if you were to re-do the whole backlight, just cut to min. length and measure from the middle outward. We can care less about defrosting outboard of the curves, as the side view mirrors can spot out there anyhow. The tinting issue is another wild animal but one which might still be tamed. mfg's solution to remove the glass and place it upside down on stands (perhaps sawhorses) could work. There are some compound curves to the backlight, though tint like vinyl, can be made to conform using a heat gun. Patience in pushing the excess off the glass (to be cut) would be key. An answer definitely exists to solve this problem.

AG-R3……S I O website?

Ed, I tried to send you a PM, but it wouldn't go. if you would, email me through the S-I-O website. /RJ

Get one for the 06 or 07 Mustang. That should cover 90% of the car.