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I believe that individual assembly techs did some things their own individual way rather than some official standardization. I’ve seen power trunk releases under the dash on the side of the steering wheel and some on the right side. The same might be at play in other assembly areas.

Thanks! In my case, the welding was done by a retired high school metals shop teacher who also taught welding at the local junior college. The rest of the rebuilding/filling/grinding/sanding was my DIY project. I figured I'd give it a try and couldn't ruin it more than it was when I got it.

The T-fitting on the frame should have a pipe plug in the bottom of it, which can be removed for draining the tank. On the passenger side of the engine, there should be three lines at the fuel filter: - one line going into the filter -one going from the filter to the carb -one smaller line going from the filter back to the tank. Is it perhaps this smaller return line you're looking at? Sometime in the past someone may have made a "modification" that you may need to undo.

When it came to real finace welding the guys who built custom bicycles were the guys who could weld those specialty items. Your redone wheel looks like new, great job.

It interesting that the moonroof would have this type of circuitry in it. Aside from the relay I can't imagine what the rest of it, like the IC's, would do. But, Avanti Motors did some strange things so who knows!

My 72 has a line coming from the fuel line drain tee on the frame. It goes up and ends on the passenger side of the engine. I had to plug it or else fuel comes running out. Where is this thing supposed to go? Or should it not even supposed to be there. I thought the tee on the frame was supposed to have a plug in it to drain fuel if needed.

I am open to hear what you think is a fair price, materials are minimal, time less than half hour a pair. Guy

very creative and well done. If some of us want to "make you an offer" to reproduce, have you considered that? Mark

Thank you. Unfortunately, the Walnut wheel recently came loose at the welds which prompted me to get serious about fixing the original steering wheel. The Walnut wheel will be the next project.

I think that you did an absolutely beautiful job on the original wheel… but I suppose you could have also just repainted the walnut wheel for the same effect? (maybe you did not want to ruin an original walnut Stude Avanti steering wheel!)

Avanti steering wheels are prone to breaking at the welds attaching the steering wheel spokes to the rim. When I bought my ’63 R2 50 years ago, the owner had been steering the car with just the two steering wheel spokes. The rim of the wheel had broken loose and was in the trunk. I replaced the steering wheel with the last new one Standard Surplus had - a brown fake wood colored unit used on the 1964 Avantis. My plan was to get the rim of the original fawn colored steering wheel rewelded to the spokes and somehow make it look new again. As I mentioned, that was 50 years ago. Over the years, I took my broken steering wheel to several welding shops to see about getting it fixed. No one wanted to try for fear of melting the adjacent plastic on the rim. A few months ago, I found a welder who did the job. Then, it was time to rebuild and shape several inches of the rim where plastic material had been removed to accommodate the two welds. The final step was to paint the steering wheel. Pictures of the process are below.

63stick, since you too are in NJ there is a terrific starter & alternator shop in Morgan NJ, if you need parts or a professional rebuild call 732-727-4486 The business is Central Jersey Starter & Alternator They are on RT 35 South, South of the Amboy Bridge. I had them rebuild both for my 64 Avanti R2 and SuperHawk R1. Also, I had parts from others that were combined to make a few perfect rebuilds. Very reliable and fairly priced. They have a huge inventory of stuff related. Mark

I'm pretty sure that Dan at Nostalgic Motors has it.

My York air compressor M1353215 is worn out. Has anybody found this compressor and clutch Dan Williams 1972 Avanti RQ-B 1882

Starliner, hands down. Those wide white walls are da bomb!

...at the risk of being voted off the MFG Island, you might hit those plastic anchors with a dab of Gorilla Glue. They aint gonna budge no more!

Desert Driver, thanks for asking the question, because that's what teased out all the information. Recently my driver's outside mirror has become loose. I've discovered that somewhere along the way, someone used plastic sheetrock / wallboard inserts in the fiberglass instead of the correct well nuts. The screws are tight in the inserts, the inserts are loose in the fiberglass. Fortunately, the holes in the fiberglass are still really small. It looks like I'll be buying the correct well nuts very soon. Mark

I bled the new MC and installed it, and bled the front brake circuit over the weekend. One thing I noticed is that the front calipers have the same issue as the rear calipers. With the car level front to back and left to right, the bleed valves for the front calipers are not at the very top of the wheel cylinder. They are actually forward of center. I had to remove the upper caliper bolt and loosen the lower bolt, then rotate the top of the caliper towards the rear of the car about 20-30 degrees to put the bleed valve at the very peak of the wheel cylinder. The brake pads were still on either side of the rotor (barely). I prepared the rear calipers for bleeding by disconnecting the emergency brake cables and return springs from the calipers. Several months ago I found a super simple method to adjust the emergency brake brackets that are connected to the rear calipers. Most of the internet instructions have you remove the bracket from the caliper and use wrenches to re-position the automatic adjuster so that when the bracket is installed, it has the proper gap to the bracket. The instructions I found adjust the bracket without removing the bracket from the internal adjuster. I'm going to make sure I check the adjustment of the emergency brake brackets (again) the simple way, then bleed the rear calipers the same way I bled the front calipers: Removing the top bolts from of the calipers and loosening the lower bolts, then rotating the calipers to the rear to get the bleed valves to the top center of the wheel cylinders while the pads remain on either side of the rotors. If I ever get this to work, I'm going to be an expert at the Turner kit.

Solved (partially) It is part of the electrical control for the SkyTop power moonroof. When I put the new radio in, I found that my moonroof was dead. I finally traced it back to the above part. It seems that when I reconnected everything, I failed to fully connect that 7 pin connector. (Big hands, small opening, tight sockets) When I went back into the dash, I noticed that while the two connectors were joined, they were were only held in place by the friction of the plastic covers, but not seated. Fully seating the plugs restored the moonroof to operational.

Once again, you are misinterpreting the INTENT of the question… Seems like all other responders understood… and then came Regnalbob!! I have an idea… how about you posting a few trivia questions of your own instead of continually trolling me? Wouldn’t that be a more productive way of spending your spare time?

That’s pretty cool Mark!

The answer to the question is all of the above. Read the question. Odd that mfg could not figure that out.

I replaced the bushings on my car last year. On my '84, the rear sway bar is larger than the earlier ones (3/4" vs 1/2) . The square bushings I was originally sent (from Avanti Parts and Restoration) were too small and when I contacted the seller about this, they sent me larger replacements which they said were from the front sway bar but fit the rear properly.

According to Regnalbob's list, for 22 Avanti owners it was their second Avanti!

That makes sense….. Odd that Regnalbob couldn’t figure that out.