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A 160’ thermostat may also help ( If your current thermostat opens at s higher than that temperature)

Hi John, wildfelr, kodjo and rhusak, So, the cross over the intake is blocked and a thick gasket between intake and carburator is in place. Also took the best fuel available (98 octan). As far as I can see, it seems to work. At least the engine did not die due to boiling fuel anymore. More tests to come on the weekend, but so far seems to work. Thank you all for your help!

I believe you will need to remove the original Rivets. These can be replaced with similar rivets if you trim the length so when assembled , you have only 1 x the diameter protruding. These can be gently mushroomed over with a hammer (buck the head end on a soiid flat steel surface) to secure the cover once again. Tinmen's or pan head rivets ought to do. You might even be able to use suitably sized flat head nails as substitute rivets (done that before). Pop rivets might do but use steel ones not Aluminium otherwise they might loosen up in service.

The entire steering column is likely a Mopar unit. Avanti Motors at different times used both Mopar and American Motors steering columns.

Need some tips to replace the crank area with new parts. Looks like I have everything (driver side crank) to replace but will be unable to press in holding pins on cover without separating from rest of the entire 1 piece mechanism assembly. Any ideas appreciated.

I think you did reply on Fakebook also. Thank you for that. I got one from Nostalgic Motors. I see what you mean about “aligning” the cap so the gas filler cover would close. My car appears to have a Chrysler Corp ignition switch in it! Thanks again

Those holes (without the plugs) are to let boost into the passageways to equalize boost pressure from the throttle plate bores to outside the bores of the throttle shaft, so it doesn't push fuel out the throttle shaft.

It's in the mail now...Shipped it out Friday.

hi John, wilfelr, kodjo and rhusak, thank you for your Inputs and recommendations! Very much appre iated. I will try and come back with the results ...

Thanks Ron- I will compare that carb number to the ones I see here in Oz and pick one up eventually. My 305 will likely require a re-jet smaller , I excpect.

Thanks MFG- I have recently fitted a dual exhaust (minus Cat- I'll take a risk.. ) whilst the body is off the Frame. The Carb and Distributor are up for substitution after I get the car reassembled and inspected for roadworthy. I'm looking for an Australian delivery carb that was jetted for the Holden 308 or Pontiac Parisiennes befor the late 70's.

cue Dolly Parton's "Coat of Many Colors" and you'll understand Avanti sourcing. I think I responded to your inquiry on FB, but if someone missed it: I bought a plastic gas cap at AutoZone for around $12. Fits just fine, but you have to align it to clear the chintzy keyed lock Mr Blake put on the filler door. Don't get me started on other oddities found on Blake Avantis 😵‍💫

Hello Stefan, I have had the same issue with several cars. Gaskets never seem to do any good no matter how thick they are. The reason is the heat is transfered directly through the mounting studs to the carb. Until you isolate those it will continue to percolate. The best solution I have found is to mount a 3-4 PSI pump near the tank, and run it when the ignition is on. I have an R2, a 62 fuel injected Corvette, a 32 Chevy and a 96 Sea Ray boat I'm doing this with now with no issues. Best of luck, John C.

The 7 pin round plug is for speaker amp to connect to the radio. There are 4 positive speaker wires, 1 ground, 12V and switched 12V. The amp takes the 4 speaker signal wires and the single ground input and sends out a pair of wires for each speaker with a + and - for each speaker. (strange set up if you ask me). The radio also had a wire remote option, so I'm guessing that is what the board may be for?

I have a service manual for that unit, but can not post on this forum for some reason. If you need it, PM me and I can email you a PDF copy. Bill

Thank you, the picture really helps.

Okay, ill be careful

We may be talking about different items. I've attached a picture of the PCB that sits on the radio...apologies for the poor quality, but my cheap flip phone has a cheap camera.. Anyway, I did a continuity tests between 3 of the speaker wire connectors (Becker 2pin DIN) and the each of the 9 pins on the connector to the "amp". I got nothing. I would expect an external amp to be connected to the AUX output (round 7 pin connection plug) and that had no connection. So I am still curious as to what it is for (on my system)

While the door panels are easy to remove and put back on, repeated re-screwing can make the connection into the fibreglass loose. After much work on my doors (and some stripping of the fibreglass interior door panels) , I ended up enlarging the holes, squaring out the circle and placing plastic (locking) inserts that would accept the screws. This made the panel more secure against the door

Thanks Gunslinger

Call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. He was an Avanti dealer through the Blake era. If he doesn’t have a NOS cap in stock he’ll know what car it came from.

This was some years back…but I saw a R3 intake on the shelf at Myer’s Studebaker in Ohio. I’ve no idea if it’s still there…Jon Myer had a number of R3 engines on stands as well.

Buying

Thanks guys. I just wasn’t sure where to start. My car looks like an amalgamation of parts. Ignition switch (and key) look to be of Chrysler heritage. Engine/Trans is GM. Frame is Studebaker! It’s interesting!