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Great minds think alike. I just watched the same video a little while ago! Thank you for your advice. I ordered the tool from Amazon and it will arrive tomorrow.

I think the use of a Combination/Proportioning valve in a disk+drum brake system is a worthy addition. I hope I'm not telling you to 'suck eggs', but one purpose of the valve is to redirect fluid to the rear brakes to avoid locking up the front brakes. the other purpose is to sense an open circuit, and then direct all fluid to the effective brakes- front or rear. The tool is used when bleeding.... you remove the brake warning light switch from the valve and replace it with a rigid pin that prevents the shuttle valve moving to either side (trying to redirect flow one way or the other). I had an obscure Kelsey-Hayes Valve on my 1981- I'm replacing it with a GM PV2 valve and its even a bolt-up fit with the old one. The valve came with the bleeder tool. See this video for a clearer explanation. I'll bet this is what is causing your problem.

Not terribly expensive, just a lot of patience and trial and error. Might find something on YouTube for working with the stuff that would make you a pro! But I agree with Zedman, I like the look of the ornament on the hood. Mike

Here's a random picture.

It is a 72. The brand X booster and master cylinder that was in there had a proportioning valve in line. I used the same valve with the OEM booster and master cyl that I put back in. I bled the system first without the valve as I was told the car originally did not use one. Second time around, I put the valve back in and re bled. It made no difference. The front calipers are grabbing, but with the rear wheels off the ground, I put it in gear and applied the brakes. The rear wheels kept moving. Also, I don't know about the centering tool for the valve, so of course I did not do that!

I'd say you have rusted bores. Go with 2 1/8" Jaguar stainless steel pistons and Cylinders (come all complete with seals) or the 'Cobalt' ones. I bought Stainless units through a Jag specialist- not that much more expensive than original Cast Iron ones. You might want to think about renewing brake lines if you find rust.

I set out to rebuild my 1981 Avanti II TH350 transmission knowing what the rubbers in stude boxes looked like after 40 years. Wished I hadn't bothered because it was fine apart from a dead relay in there (Relay ?.. I did learn rapidly that I had a TH350 'C' which has a lockup Torque Converter and needed different Valve body gaskets.) With this transmission I will either have to keep some emissions controls and the Onboard Computer or fabricate a manual switch/relay system to initiate and shut down Lockup. I have a Rear end ratio of 2.89:1 so this ought to be near enough to overdrive. I believe these came out of the Avanti factory from 1980 -81 for about three years. Might be a worthy choice along with a manual lockup switch.

Wow... Impressive mileage MFG. I think You made a good choice, but many opted to go with the 350 for added power.

So the numbers, are we referring to 63-64's, or all, including Avanti 2's?.

Wow, I would love to do this and honor Tom Kellogg. He was a personal friend and a inspiration for restoring my 1964 Avanti.

Very nicely done- If I did one similar, I'd like to engrave it... "For Sherwood Egbert"

Jim, what year is your Avanti?.... Does it have a proportioning/Combination Valve? If it does, did you bleed your brakes using the centering tool made for this purpose? If you don't use this tool to fix the position of the internal shuttle valve, half your system will be left unbled.

Anyone have news?

Thank you!

For those that may have never seen this. With thanks to the estate and memory of Richard Gallatin. All rights reserved. Avanti Aurora Trivia Game with 100 Questions and Answers

I have completed the Turner Brake upgrade and all new drum brake parts on the rear. Today I got my original booster rebuilt back from Studebaker Itnl and a new master cylinder installed. I bleed the system 3 times. The brakes engage, however only until the pedal is almost at the floor! I checked the measurement of the booster to master push rod and it is correct. Any thoughts welcome.

OK… in about two hours

I'll let you know if I find it...

The AOAI sent out a replacement page to correct that.

Yes............Please post the part number and application if you know it. Thanks

There is also a Toyota alternator that wires up the same as original… and mounts up to engine bracket the same as original… I have one in my parts stash as a spare… I will post part number if anyone is interested… Cost me about $35 at Auto Zone.. but that was 7 or 8 years ago.

Ah... I tried to contact Larry Crapo, but to no avail with either email or phone text. Many of the listings are rooted in the AOAI roster, but only a few rosters are at hand. Some entries originated from the old Avanti dot net site, which I believe AOAI now owns. My drives have twice as much information on "for sale" cars whose owners didn't advertise the serial and refused to when asked or those who mix up the body tag with the serial number. There were also, either no reply or those who passed a bogus number just to end the conversation. So, I do this as a pseudo-hobby and when time permits. Managing this kind of database isn't an exact science unless you are appraised of changes and who does that? AOAI rosters still show owners of cars that were sold many years earlier. In fact the 2025 AOAI roster shows all the Minnesota owners now live in Michigan. Many new owners don't join AOAI. It was once suggested that serial number should be noted when showing the cars at meet or for sale, but that fell on deaf ears. If I can straighten out the issue with R3544, it will be noted as soon as possible. Larry Crapo also owns/owned R4560 and I have pics of that one from Facebook, but I deleted my account on that platform. If anyone has an avenue to contact Larry, please do so.

Brant. What did you end up doing? I believe I have a bad diode in my '63 R1.