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Conversion package , R1, DS dr, nos calipers and drums sold. still have rear with 4.10s PS dr, booster, and gauge package.

It's been sold

They need to remove the ad from the Club magazine.

what are the symptoms? Is it hard to turn the steering wheel to get any tire movement? Does the steering jerk hard in the direction that you turn? Have you checked the lines between the pump, control valve and cylinder to make sure there are no kinks. When replacing the control valve seals did you get the new seals oriented on the valve correctly? Could you have switched the lines between the ports on the components? Are there any leaks around any of the components? I know that you were careful in your work, but until you check these out, none of the rest of us can help you...for example when putting the cap back on the end of the control valve, did you get the set screw back to its original position? Could the new pump be bad? Please give us something more to go on than it is not working at all.

If you mean how would you install the stainless steel factory grille, you would only need to utilize the factory mounting holes in the fiberglass, which should already be there……I’m pretty sure every ‘83 Avanti left the factory with that stainless steel grille. If your car has had bodywork and the mounting holes for the grille were not drilled, it would be easy to drill the required grille mounting holes in the fiberglass.

Last I heard was that he was almost 90 years old. One can probably assume that the book is no longer available from him.

My 83 has no grille and I don’t see how one would be attached. Parts book isn’t much help. Looks like lots of options on materials. I’ve painted the air dam I got from Michael Phillips and was considering fabricating a grille as I was flopping around on the floor installing that. Mike

My power steering in my '72 is not working at all. I replaced the pump with a new one, installed the seal kit in the control valve and there are no leaks. I don't know how to tell which is suspect, the cylinder or the control valve.

RQB3263/81 .... THIS GRILL WAS FABED FROM PLASTIC WIN-DIXIE SHOPPING CART MATERIAL .... INDESTRUCTIBLE, EASILY REPLACEABLE, ... AND FREE.....BILL IN FLORIDA

RQB3263/81 .... NEVER HEARD OF THEM BUT ILL BET THERE PLASTIC .... I FABED 3263 GRILL FROM STAINLESS STEEL...

Anyone have any experience with this company and their grille material? https://www.customcargrills.com/index.asp

The motor I took off has 4 wires, the "new" motor has 5. I'm cleaning up the old one and going to reinstall it.

WOW EXCELLENT PERFECT THATS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED T KNOW ..... THANKS

These came with the kit I received.

The rod should be 23mm if I remember well:

Apparently the link has expired.

Nice looking car! If it were me, I'd contact Turner through his website.

WHAT BRAKE PADS ARE USED ON MY TURNER FRONT BRAKE CONVERSION ?? I WILL BE PULLING THE FRONT WHEELS NEXT WEEK TO REPLACE GREASE FITTING, ADJ. STEERING BOX, CHK. WHEEL BEARING SECURITY, AND OVERALL TIGHTNESS .... SO I MIGHT AS WELL THROUGH IN ANOTHER SET OF PADS.... KEEP IN TOUCH ... BILL IN FLORIDA... THANKS

I've never heard of not bench bleeding a M.C., and, although I'm not an expert, I've done my own brakes for 50 years. --Dwight

In the master cyl box it stated not to bench bleed. So I didn’t.

As this link no longer works, could someone provide the email address ?

Did you bench bleed the MC? If not, I'd suggest you start there, and then adjust the push rod when you reinstall the MC.

I agree with Mel…. the booster rod is probably adjusted short.

Being you changed the master cylinder, I'd probably start with assuring the clearance between the end of the booster rod and the seat of the master cylinder piston is within spec's. If you're uncertain, a tool is available which is used for this. Good luck.