All Activity

Atlas 710 38-42A

Trusty multimeter in hand, I'm left to determine that I have a bad diode in my alternator. I've been perusing the forums and https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Bhend/avantalternatorarticle1.pdf by Bill Henderson. (Awaiting the shop manual to arrive.) I have a call into a local auto electrical rebuild shop and I'm poking around the alternator. I'd love to have a backup, like one of the Honda or Toyota alternators like others have done so I can still drive my daily while the original is being rebuilt. I'm not a good electrical diagram reader. I have three wires coming from the harness to the alternator, white (or so faded they look yellow to me), white with black stripe and white with red stripe. The resister looking thing attached to the back of the alternator -- is this the Prestolite regulator? (see img 1). Whatever it is, it is not actually attached to the alternator, as I found it loose, not broken, in the boot. (Img 2). The red stripped wire goes to the terminal with the boot, the black-stripped goes to the other terminal, and the solid looks like it is being grounded to the post that holds the "regulator". Thoughts/Comments/Suggestions welcomed. -Dobb

This was in the meet hotel lobby. Nelson had his #1 Daytona convertible inside the swap meet building.

Those look like two universal flex hoses.. All you need to know is the length and hose end diameter

Then I am in it! I was trying to update the AOAI listing. My Avanti wasn't included in their listing. It has a fill-in form that, when I hit send, says there was some sort of error.

Getting back to this thread. Unfortunately 1700928 and 1700929 aren't even close (bought both- I believe these are for 63-64 with a surge tank eliminator kit.) It must be a combination of the location/orientation of the R4 A/C compressor and the angle and diameter of the thermostat housing on the Chevy L69 "HO" 305. I've tried other molded hoses from Camaros to Caprices and Monte Carlos with no likely fit, even with cutting sections out. What is needed is hose #1 with a 1-3/4" ID at the radiator with the same diameter at the inline filler neck, and hose #2 with a 1-3/4" ID ending with a 1-1/2" ID at the thermostat housing. I've ordered some Dayco Flex hoses, a reducer and a inline filler neck. I'll posts part numbers if it ends up good. Here is current leaky setup.

From Egbert's Avanti.

Thank you for providing the information to make a custom badge.

I did email Larry Crapo several weeks ago but as of yet haven’t gotten a response.

Is it a kilometer speedometer ? Maybe an original europe import car....😀

Thanks Jim- BTW what valve do you have and is it mounted on the left hand inner Frame Rail or is it up top with your Master cyl? If its a Kelsey-Hayes unit (like my old one) it will be OLD. I wasted a huge amount of time researching this obscure little bugger only to find it was likely to be pretty well stonkered. There are some parts for it but it not all, so it's not really worth it. I opted for the GM PV-2 valve and it was plentiful, cheap, Brass not Ferrous and a 100% bolt-up fit so long as you use some of the old fittings. Picture attached so you can see the similarities...

@Zedman, that's a great video - thanks for sharing! Many years ago I had a terrible problem with the rear brakes locking up on my '72 Avanti during hard braking. I tried everything to solve it. I suspected the combination valve might be at fault but could not find a replacement at the time. I removed it and replaced it with an adjustable proportioning valve which solved my problem.

I'm looking for an Avanti Power Brake Booster, new or rebuildable for my 1964 Avanti R1, R4754. Mine came with an unknown booster in the trunk, not an Avanti, which doesn’t fit. Live in The Netherlands. All costs will be paid in advance. E-mail address = 2b-ornot-2b@kpnmail.nl

Already gotcha http://studebaker-info.org/avantiX1.html#r1400

I tried adding my Avanti to the list but when I hit "send" it gives me an error message.

Great minds think alike. I just watched the same video a little while ago! Thank you for your advice. I ordered the tool from Amazon and it will arrive tomorrow.

I think the use of a Combination/Proportioning valve in a disk+drum brake system is a worthy addition. I hope I'm not telling you to 'suck eggs', but one purpose of the valve is to redirect fluid to the rear brakes to avoid locking up the front brakes. the other purpose is to sense an open circuit, and then direct all fluid to the effective brakes- front or rear. The tool is used when bleeding.... you remove the brake warning light switch from the valve and replace it with a rigid pin that prevents the shuttle valve moving to either side (trying to redirect flow one way or the other). I had an obscure Kelsey-Hayes Valve on my 1981- I'm replacing it with a GM PV2 valve and its even a bolt-up fit with the old one. The valve came with the bleeder tool. See this video for a clearer explanation. I'll bet this is what is causing your problem.

Not terribly expensive, just a lot of patience and trial and error. Might find something on YouTube for working with the stuff that would make you a pro! But I agree with Zedman, I like the look of the ornament on the hood. Mike

Here's a random picture.

It is a 72. The brand X booster and master cylinder that was in there had a proportioning valve in line. I used the same valve with the OEM booster and master cyl that I put back in. I bled the system first without the valve as I was told the car originally did not use one. Second time around, I put the valve back in and re bled. It made no difference. The front calipers are grabbing, but with the rear wheels off the ground, I put it in gear and applied the brakes. The rear wheels kept moving. Also, I don't know about the centering tool for the valve, so of course I did not do that!

I'd say you have rusted bores. Go with 2 1/8" Jaguar stainless steel pistons and Cylinders (come all complete with seals) or the 'Cobalt' ones. I bought Stainless units through a Jag specialist- not that much more expensive than original Cast Iron ones. You might want to think about renewing brake lines if you find rust.

I set out to rebuild my 1981 Avanti II TH350 transmission knowing what the rubbers in stude boxes looked like after 40 years. Wished I hadn't bothered because it was fine apart from a dead relay in there (Relay ?.. I did learn rapidly that I had a TH350 'C' which has a lockup Torque Converter and needed different Valve body gaskets.) With this transmission I will either have to keep some emissions controls and the Onboard Computer or fabricate a manual switch/relay system to initiate and shut down Lockup. I have a Rear end ratio of 2.89:1 so this ought to be near enough to overdrive. I believe these came out of the Avanti factory from 1980 -81 for about three years. Might be a worthy choice along with a manual lockup switch.

Wow... Impressive mileage MFG. I think You made a good choice, but many opted to go with the 350 for added power.

So the numbers, are we referring to 63-64's, or all, including Avanti 2's?.

Wow, I would love to do this and honor Tom Kellogg. He was a personal friend and a inspiration for restoring my 1964 Avanti.