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IIRC there was a document detailing at what serial number all of these changes took place. I can't find it at the moment. --Dwight

if there is any local delamination at the hinge you may need to do a ply repair. I've heard of the disbond problem and panelbond would be the right thing to use for that. on my 79 the hood hinge pad was getting crunchy. I did a 5 ply tapered repair with woven cloth and SMC resin. There was a lot of panelbond smeared in and around the damage, I ground that out.

I am driving and will be able to bring it with me. I will send you a e-mail. Steve

Wow that looks really good!

Well I’ve been playing around with a 63 Avanti I bought out of Phoenix Arizona and yesterday I decided to try to resurrect a really shot dash pad. The pad had actually fallen down far enough to hide the instrument. The Arizona heat had pretty much cooked the dash. The car really deserves a new dash pad but trying to recoup a $2000 plus plus investment can be difficult to do with a run of the mill 63 Avanti. So yesterday I decided to try to repair the dash to bring it to something presentable. I didn’t get a picture prior to starting on the project but the dash pad was really BAD! My first picture is after I heated the underside of the pad by the instruments using a heat gun. I was able to raise it back up to its original location with a 4 1/2 inch by 12 inch piece of plywood and a wood prop from the underside of the plywood to the steering column. I left that prop there through the entire process and removed it prior to paint. I then sanded the top of the pad with 80 grit paper. I also completely cleaned the entire dash with “Prep All” prior to doing any work. All cracks were reinforced with fiberglass mesh to keep the crack from returning. After those repairs were made I started with the bondo. Shaping the bondo a cheese grader was used to rough in the shape followed by 36 grit sand paper to 150 grit to 400 grit. I found a close match to the original elk dash color in a Rustolium spray paint called French Beige. I have about $25 wrapped up in the project and a good day to day and a half worth of work. It looks pretty decent. Not a new pad for sure but beats what was there and looks better than a carpet covering the pad.

I believe Nelson was referring to changes phased in on the Avanti production line?

OK…. It was a light duty unit based on the same model ‘8’ BW. with first gear start.

I found a rebuilt booster from NAPA and the master cylinder that was used by Avanti Motors. I will be installing those two units to bring it back to factory. Hopefully, that will do the trick! Film at eleven.

Actually the 64 changes were on an EX prototype car made long before R4892. One of the last ones Gary Johnson is finishing up.

The 1963 & 1964 six cylinder Studebakers used a 3 speed Flightomatic.

Wonderful Leo!

Hi Steve. Are you driving or flying to the meet? I’m going to the show also. Is there any way to bring the shroud? What do you need for it?

Thanks mgf. Yep I thought the same thing. Twin Track is not a must for sunday cruising use (like I do). But when something interests you and you want to find out and learn ... 🙂 😄 Good to know you have a case if I need it. BTW. Your shipment is here for pickup. I'll pick it up next Tuesday from post office.

Even though the Hurst with Dave's handle is far superior to the stock, I just really am big on authenticity. I know that sounds silly but that's the mechanical feel that I'm after. His handles look great but I just would like to put in the real mccoy. Dwight, if you have one that would be great!

The master cylinder might be the source of the problem. If it’s a non-original master cylinder…it could be from a car that has an identical looking master cylinder but a different bore which can create such an issue.

Hi Leo… can’t answer your question, however if things don’t work out with the TT differential, I have an ‘open’ differential case in good shape for a ‘44’….. Frankly, if you don’t race your Avanti or drive it in slippery, adverse conditions, an open differential case is sometimes easier to live with… Just my opinion!

Hmmm!… Did you use a driveshaft from a ‘63 or ‘64 Lark ‘6’ two speed automatic? That could account for the 1” longer shaft.. since a pre ‘63 cast iron Flightomatic ‘6’ auto trans would use the same length shaft as any V8 built on the 109–109 1/2 wheelbase….including Avanti…. Ed PS… Steve’s idea of measuring things up is a very good one though!

My experience after ruining 2 V-8 transmissions is that the 6 cylinder driveline is about 1” longer than the V-8. be sure to measure any driveline you use and don't install one that is longer than it should be. Steve

You nailed it Brad. The light flickers when I shift. I put a temporay circuit break where the fuse goes and it trips with movement of the shifter. That's where it's shorting.

Thanks Jim. Pb

63Avanti Parts. Part #1560653. Dished discs and the kit are not available anymore. Avanti Shop Manual shows Fig 16. 1 Dished / concave plate and 2 plates and 2discs. Reassembly text sama page tells also same. These should work. But I dont know total thick. I will test: 1 dished plate 0.095" pointing towards disc 0.064", plate 0.064", disc 0.064", plate 0.064". This combo will pressure (preload) dished plate 0.0866" (2,20 mm) when reassambly has done. Lets see how much torque this will give.

With the engine off, I depressed the brake pedal and it was firm. When I started the engine, the pedal went down. I think this would indicate the booster was in fact working. So I'm stumped again as too why it still takes tons of pressure on the pedal to stop this car. I'm still open to suggestions. I bleed all the air out startin with the passenger rear cylinder, driver's side, front passenger caliper and the driver's caliper.

On my '72, the pivot bolt is 20.5 inches above the armrest. I put the retractor down inside, removing the ashtray and running the belt up through where the ashtrays would have sat.

What you need is an artist or old school sign painter. We have become paralyzed by tech.

All done here?