Jump to content

Removing Rusted Body Bolts


Recommended Posts

In January, 1963, my uncle was working as a mechanic at a Studebaker dealership in Broohhaven, Long Island, NY, when a new Avanti, 63R2159, was delivered. Two years later in 1965, my uncle bought that Avanti from the original owner and enjoyed the car until he passed away in 2008. I bought the car in 2009 from my cousin. I have finally started the full restoration and I am at the point of removing the body bolts and lifting the body off the frame. Everything from the body has been removed and is just a fiberglass shell. The chassis has some rust damage but is repairable. The body bolts that screw into the hog troughs are not moving and I broke the head off of one already. Being that the bolt threads are not accessible, has anyone come up with a way to get these out? Should I cut small holes in the hog trough to apply penetrating oil to the threads? Can I use heat without damaging the fiberglass? Luckily, the hog troughs are solid with no visable outside rust. All the other body bolts with exposed threads I have loosened so they will not be a problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ken

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ken .I removed  the 17 bolt's holding the body to the chassis..this past summer..I to am removing my body off my chassis..on r 4103...yes I used liquid wrench..an wd40. I turned the bolts a tiny bite off.. then Titan back an forth 500 time's..yes 500 time.( I counted.). back an forth about 1/32.of an inch at a time. So not to brake.the bolts off into the hog troughs.keeping the bolts well lubricated..will I did the job. The ten bolts that are in the hog troughs are the toughest.ones to do..I thought that the bolts have been there 57. Years.. I needed to take my time getting them off.. most all the bolts are going to need replacing..but that did not break.. that's just how I did it..

Link to post
Share on other sites

Penetrating oils do help, however, with the number of possibly 'frozen' bolts you'll be dealing with, there's nothing like a bit of applied heat.....I'd invest in a small oxy/acetylne welding, cutting, heating outfit.......Ed

PS....you really should have a 'spotter' standing by with a hose or fire extinguisher while doing this!:o

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can access the torque box bolts from the top by removing the sill plate and rubber mat and drilling a few 1.5-2.0" holes in the fiberglass.  Use Kroil or PB Blaster on them from the top.    Worth a try and beats hell out of drilling them out from underneath.   Returning the sill plates and rubber conceals everything you've done. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

using a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone will work much better than any commercially available solution that i ever used, based on over 65 years of being a professional mechanic. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, arkus said:

using a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone will work much better than any commercially available solution that i ever used, based on over 65 years of being a professional mechanic. 

Seconded by a 45 year professional mechanic.

Good luck,

Jim Wood

Link to post
Share on other sites

Consider an induction heater as an option to torch heat. They are available from multiple tool sources. Combined with ATF/acetone mix, you have the best chance at success.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...