StudeNorm

Thanks, Ed, et al. John C agrees with you so that is the route I will go and see where it gets me. Might be a good excuse to purchase a MIG machine... Cheers.

Thanks for the re[plies, all. It looks like welding will be the solution. The car is trapped on the hoist while I use the space under it during some home reno projects anyways so I will pull the steering wheel and see what I can get done during this lockdown period. Colour matching the resin might be fun but I don't mind a good challenge . Cheers.

Hi. I am looking for a replacement wheel or suggestions on how to repair mine. It seems like it broke at the rim/spoke junction. Can it be repaired or is that too risky? Thanks.

The hog troughs are accessible from the very rear over the top of the frame. They may also have drain holes in them at front and back. I got into mine with a boroscope and found a dead bird and various and sundry other things that the squirrels brought in. I would think that if you don't want to drill your body panels you can get creative and find a way to use a scope and a very long nozzle to spray the bolt threads in the troughs. Might take a bit of contorting to get things aligned or just fire a bunch of lube at high pressure and coat it all but the point being when you get it apart cleanup

The other day I went for a spin and upon entering the car I had a hold of the wheel and pulled on it a bit to adjust my butt in the seat and felt a funny movement, in the steering wheel, not my seat. The wheel now has a back and forth wiggle where the rim meets the spoke, one side only for now. It feels broken at that point. Is it possible to repair or will it need replacing? I have a welder but realize the plastic will have to be removed and then replaced. Does anyone have an old wheel in decent shape I can buy? What are my options for a good looking after-market replacement? My interior alre

Would that be the reason my Avanti has Quiet Tone exhaust listed as an option? It was originally destined for Gilroy, California delivery.

One of my girls found this map at a flea market and got it for me for my birthday... This was before I had my full-sized Avanti.

I believe my Ford van had king pins but it was a '79... As per studegary.

Turkey baster... cut the end off the baster to a point where it fits over the pushrod, draw the lifter up a bit (1/4" or so) squeeze the bulb and off pops the lifter.

I have a Dave T pump on my R2. I spent a lot of time and money trying to get a correct rebuild kit only to box up the old pump/kits and get one fully configured and ready to go from Dave. It has been working like a charm for years now.

After doing a configuration comparison of the photo Murph posted I agree that the plane is a Queen Air. The windows in that photo are quite distinctive. Merry Christmas.

The serial number is a 1963 but some things look odd. My '63 had an alternator. This one has chrome valley cover and rocker covers. My auto trans had the dip stick tube accessed from the engine compartment. The one you show needs to be accessed through the floor. Someone here will know that tranny.

I believe I have seem GM advertising an electric crate motor for dropping into small block equipped cars. Seems like a no-brainer for anyone wanting an electric Avanti, or any other Stude since we know the small block easily fit into the Lark chassis.

Was Ford toying with the idea of using fibreglass panels on the Mustang around that time?

Hi. I don't use a primer pump and have never had a problem. I use non-ethanol gas always, so don't have boiling and evaporation issues. If you can get non-ethanol fuel you may just eliminate the primer pump.