arkus

call me any evening, vermont time. i'm starting to sell off much that i've accumulated over the last 45 years. i can help. 802-492-3440.

very hard to come by, original portfolio of the aesthetic features and facts of the 1963 avanti. perfect condition. $350.00, firm plus actual shipping george perry, vermont, 802-492-3440

new roto-faze distributor, model srs8p, s#9448, complete and perfect, $495.00 '64 avanti am/fm radio, working when removed years ago, $695.00 one pair, nos mufflers, #1560065 stamped on them, $200.00 two prestolite alternators, (ace 5003-2u) $175.00 each, one missing tag, available from s.i. two used workshop manuals, used, $35.00 each chassis & body parts catalog, used, $35.00 '63 studebaker (avanti) parts catalog, used, printed 7/1962, $50.00 two complete blower assemblies, one avanti, one lark, $5000.00 each all prices firm , plus actual shipping costs. george perry, vermont call 802-492-3440 evenings for any questions

i have a restored tank, not sure how i would ship it to finland.

michael landon

100, and glad the trivia is back, ed, and i still need that rear end we talked about months ago, just haven't got there yet

just took the drivers side door apart to repair non-working window. found the motor to be ok but the drive mechanism that the motor hooks to thru the rubber connector was bound up. was surprised to find the large wound up spring totally absent. it was obvious someone had been in there before me. logic would suggest the spring helps or it wouldn't have been there to begin with but i wonder if the window will work without one as i don't have one handy and would like to put the door back together. any ideas? thanks

is there a replacement motor available? i seem to remember that some earlier fords were the same, also that they were all the same from '63 thru '75. i understand this is a dreaded fix; this is my 1st experience with avanti power windows.

2-'63's a '64, '74, '80 and an '84 touring coupe. too much info to type here. prices range from $1950. to $23,000. call after 7pm, 802-492-3440 for details.

thanks for "going the extra mile". helps a lot!

that's the same diagram i have. the way it is presented with the description "heat gage" horizontally printed across the picture makes it appear that the mounting posts are top and bottom, giving you the locations for 55B and 14. this is not the case as the mounting posts are right and left and because you could ground either mounting post, the location of 55B and 14 could be reversed. in short, the diagram lacks that direction. i'm inclined to think that 14, the wire from the sending unit, belongs on the bottom electrical post.

on my '63 the gauge pegs past 240 after a very (3 minutes ) short run time. engine is not hot and steaming/thumping. per workshop manual this can be checked to pinpoint either faulty sender or gauge. i have a restored spare gauge to do that with AND here is the question. there are two electrical connections, one at the very top on the back and one 1 inch lower. my schematic shows wire 55B to one post and wire 14 to the other, but is not specific to which post gets, say, wire 14. really don't want to take a chance and ruin the gauge. can any of you really technical guys help? thank you.

thanks for the info. turns out this is a gm. got lock out, (thanks you-tube) and ordered a new one. hood and trunk opening, (next post), should be fairly easy. appreciate the help!

both the hood and trunk cables are frozen. i'm aware of how to open trunk thru the "trunk flap" but am fuzzy on procedure to trip the hood latches. do you go up thru the holes that are covered with those 1- 1/2" rubber buttons on each side? thanks again for any info.

have a '74 avanti ll with no ignition key. can anyone identify what brand the newmans used for that column and any tips for getting the old lock out? thanks