Jump to content

silverstude

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by silverstude

  1. Notes here http://studebaker-info.org/rjtechjan2023p1.html#85av
  2. oil flowback from the heads
  3. Electrics have their learning curve also
  4. If you changed out the mechanical pump and didn't have to fight fuel running out of the supply hose, then that would indicate the problem is likely not the pump.
  5. Just throwing this out there.... A majority of the moonroof leaks are likely caused by lack of attention to the drains. If they are kept free of debris, it could minimize the issue
  6. The bars were installed by myself. The rear wasn't any problem, but recall the front was a bit of work. When the rear broke loose, I repaired the torn section of frame underplate wt\ith 10 gauge rolled steel, tack welded the strut back and also drilled the side frame flange and installed 3/8", grade 8 bolts.
  7. The larger diameter bars do change the handling to a much firmer stance. If you add super duty shocks, like Bilsteins or Konis, cornering feels like you're on rails. One negative result I had was that the rear strut L-channel on the passenger side was ripped loose from the frame, so both rear mounts were reinforced.
  8. Are you using the correct lube ? Many vendors have a semi fluid grease that won't run.
  9. I would think the lockup feature on a TH350 is a great addition. It only drops the RPM a hundred or two, but in that you get a little bit of an increase in fuel mileage, a little less engine wear and you don't have to fear that temperature stigma on a 700R4.
  10. You might not be aware but there is a replacement from a Dodge Dart (70's) that looks exactly the same and adds a "knob push" to wash feature that runs a washer fluid pump ( at least some do) https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/PDF/Wiper/wiper.html
  11. Obviously, the ignition should be on when testing. First thing you should do is pull the existing fuses and replace them with fresh units. Just running a continuity test on the existing fuses won't prove they can handle a load. The A/C and heater were likely to have been used more than any other component and the heat cycle of the that fuse could have compromised it. Putting a dab of dielectric grease on each fuse leg prior to install will insure long term continuity thru the fuses. If that doesn't resolve the issue, check the continuity of the wiring between the fuse panel and each component, via the switches. First do the fuse to the Switch, if good at the switch, then follow up to to the component. The switches may be the issue. If you have 12V at the fuse and the switch and nothing at the components, then the supply wiring between the switch and the component is open somewhere. If you run a bypass wire from the fuse to the compressor get a "click' by touching the compressor pigtail, the original circuit is faulty and must be replaced. The same fuse handles the heater fan motor, so again, check the power at the switch first, then to the component.
  12. When my A II starts getting warm, I pop the hood, driving....... That's not a good idea
  13. RQB-1984 is a custom build..... Chassis, drivetrain, body https://www.studebaker-info.org/avantiRQBx1.html#rqb1984
  14. Specifically Avanti? Where did you find that?
  15. I have a note regarding Avanti Handbrake adjusting from issue #64, but I don't know which version that was referring to.
  16. I've spent some time on this yesterday, to no avail. I was thinking Cadillac and they have some pieces that are called something close, but no cigar.
  17. Just a thought. Would you think the manufacturer of the Cruise control might have something to do with the DCS?
  18. The switch on the dash can be replaced by this one ( washer function + variable speed) https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/PDF/Wiper/wiper.html
×
×
  • Create New...