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Everything posted by silverstude

  1. Some vacuum cleaner hoses fit those points also / You don't want anything with a lot of corrugation as it will cause turbulence and slow down the airflow. The smooth the inside, the better
  2. Remove the filler plug and try to stick the tip of your finger inside/ if there is nothing in the way, the it's an open differential (not positraction)
  3. Do you recall the application it was listed for? / thx
  4. Varaaz, please check your private messages.
  5. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Steer/rosstopseal/rosstopseal.html
  6. The middle point can be adjusted using the screw on the side of the box with the locknut. You have to follow the guidelines tho, as the worm shaft spiral gets thinner at that point and too tight there can lead to binding on turns. The chances that you have a different box that other Avantis is fairly slim. I don't have any specific identifying info on hand other than pics of other cars, but looking for them would take a while. No other Studebakers except the Avantis, used the Ross box with the fabric connector joint. The rebuild parts (Seals, bushings, sector pin kit, etc, are are available from Studebaker International. The worm shaft may be an issue, but it's likely available somewhere.
  7. Looks original to me. Are you looking for the top oil seal?
  8. I tried quite a few ways to manipulate the lockup and protect the innards. Currently have an SPDT switch on the dash to leave it on (auto) or turn it off altogether. It's also wired so it only locks up in 4th. Add to that a temperature sensor on the oil pan. From everything I've read, if the oil temperature exceeds 260 for any length of time it will deteriorate the soft parts and clutches in short order, especially the ones in the 4th gear (OD) servo. Even with an internal oil cooler in the radiator and an external cooler in front, plus forced air ducts into the bell housing, there's no stopping the temperature climb if the lockup is off. If drive it without the lockup and it's in 4th, you can actually see the temperature rising and it comes on fairly quick, especially in the summer. Once the switch is on, you can actually watch the temperature drop and it does this much quicker than it rises. My 700 is supposed to be a HD build and said to be bulletproof. It has a 2200 RPM stall converter if that makes any difference, but I would think a higher rpm stall would allow for less resistance to flow which causes the heat. So far, the only complaint is that 1st gear jump and no way to avoid it.
  9. The next item to assure is the lockup solenoid functionality. A run of the mill 700 will lock up the converter in 2nd or 3rd. In 4th, the converter must lockup or the oil will cook. 4th is overdrive and puts quite a strain on the converter, creating loads of heat, so an oil cooler and knowing the lock up works, is a primary concern. You can tell the lockup is functioning by a 2-300 rpm drop.
  10. Yes before you drive it, make sure that TV cable is adjusted correctly or you'll lose the trans in a hurry
  11. The 700-R4 is a bit longer than a 200-4R, other than that, it bolts right up to a 350. The only thing I ran into was 1) the two exhaust pipes right after the head pipes had to be reversed so get the wider sweep around the trans pan. 2) fabricate a rear trans mount 3) get a new drive shaft. The shifter quadrant I used is from a late 90's Camaro and I put a floor in the console to mount the shifter quadrant to. The quadrant has the electrical switching for parking brake solenoid, neutral safety switch, back up lights, etc. so that was all in one package. You can use the quadrant from a later 80's Avanti II which also used the 700 and the only change to the interior was the plastic shift indicator plate showing 123DNRP. I preferred the Camaro unit because it isolated the shifter from the exhaust heat. The only thing I remember that was a PITA was that some of the bolts on the 700-R4 were metric mixed with SAE.... a real GM pleasure..
  12. Yes, this was in the late 90's before the 200-4R was even being spoken of. If I had my "druthers....". My 700 is from a late 80's state trooper trans that was reworked by Jasper Engines and Transmissions. Still has a cable speedo...
  13. I once saw an R3 in its shipping crate sitting next to a gold colored Avanti in one of the bays at RB Clarks, in Falls Church, VA. This had to be around 1967-68. Never found out what was going on there. I was in there for parts for my 57 GH
  14. I have a note from the past that says ANCO 25-15 wiper blades fit 63-84 Avantis / there are some on Ebay
  15. Unless you have an axle gear of 2:80 or the like, 1st gear in a 700 will take you around 15 feet before it shifts to 2nd. I have a "built" 700R4, which was adjusted by the tech's at "Bowtie Overdrive", the axle has a 3:54 ratio . Under normal driving, you do not want to have a cup of coffee in your hand when you start off. Even moderately flooring it and you will be wearing the coffee after the abrupt shift to 2nd. The gear spread in a 700 isn't the best and that's been discussed. I always wondered why you can't start off in 2nd to avoid the " Atlas-Centaur 2nd stage" effect....
  16. Playing around with the body shims to lower the front end can cause some headaches. If you don't calculate the correct height of the stack on the radiator core support, you will definitely wind up with a stress crack across the fenders parallel with the firewall. There are no other body supports between the radiator and the firewall, so the weight of that nose is cantilevered on the cowl unless properly supported at the front. Not much room for error either. I could never visualize how they mounted that body and spread the weight evenly across all those mount points. Moreover, the Avanti II's have more shims than Studebaker Avantis.
  17. I had them on my 70 also and it made the car tantamount to having a tiller instead of a wheel. They also have to increase the pressure on the Power steering components, especially the hoses, as the high pressure feed out of the pump on my car blew off on one outing and I went into the weeds on a slow curve...
  18. My question is, that if Studebaker sanctioned the Granatellis to build the R3's, using the resources of the Studebaker Corporation, then the Foundry had to have patterns, etc for all the special engine components. So where did these items needed to produce R3 heads and manifolds go?
  19. Sorry about that. I corrected the page https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Hogt/hogt.html
  20. On the early Avanti II's ( and I'll surmise, 63-64 Avantis), the expansion valve is located around the area above the passenger left foot. It wasn't too hard to get to. I can't imagine there would be much difference throughout the years until around 86 and the GM chassis
  21. I just went there and ?. Don't know what happened to them. I've used the contact page to ask about it. Will let you know the outcome..
  22. Look up a "Combo Valve" on Master Power Brakes website
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