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Everything posted by silverstude

  1. ....regarding the rationale about appending either an "A" or a "B" to new car (Avanti) registrations in California, in 1962. Does anyone recall this discussion? Thx
  2. R3 mounts were shorter / check the part #
  3. Did you notice the chassis number of the car?
  4. The Master Power Brake Combo valve balances Disk and drum application to prevent nose-dive and has a brake light switch built in.
  5. Look up a Master Power Brake Combo Valve
  6. All I could find on Massagli was that they were an International Harvester dealer in 1962
  7. Take lots of pictures for the return trip
  8. Make one out of a Sprite or Mountain Dew bottle
  9. The article you saw likely said the calipers were the same, which is true, the rotors....no
  10. I used the entire console and mated it with the lower 70 original. All the gauges are Autometer. After I bought two of the 89 heat/cool system controls (Chrysler), I did not like the design and went with original A/C knobs on the lower part of the light switch panel. The panel has indicators for all the lights and 700R4 Trans lockup / The heat/fresh air controls are above the left knee / the A/C unit has an integral hot water pass-thru so you really get "defrost". / The shifter is from a mid 90s Camaro and required a floor be installed underneath, which also prevents a lot of heat transfer The shifter also has the neutral safety switch and backup light controls. The A-Pillar guage pod is for the SN-60. / Tilt Column is from a 90s Chevy Panel truck, Wheel is Momo. E-brake handle is on the floor..... and the Mel inspiration Dash inlay was created by making a mold from the 89 dash cavity and using high quality furniture grade plywood in 3 pieces veneered in Carpathian Burl Elm and sealed in clear epoxy.
  11. Museum of Modern Art show Car? Scratch that, but I was close R1Lark had some of it.... https://www.studebaker-info.org/AVDB1/R3000/63R3848/63R3848cabella.html
  12. Mel was my inspiration, when I installed an 89 Dash in my 70.
  13. Daniel Stern has just released an expanded article on the change from white to amber turn signal lenses. A great read at https://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-when-front-turn-signals-changed-colour-amber-waves-of-pain/ He mentioned that "In the comments you'll find some meaty, Auto Pact-related discussion of why Studebakers might have been singled out for harassment at inspection time while other '63-'64 cars with clear lenses skated through."
  14. Front hubs? for the disk brake rotors?
  15. Yes, my 70 (RQA0381) had the same. That stalk the alternator is bolted to and the carved out fins on the valve cover were obviously cobbled to allow that large York AC compressor to sit on the Passenger side
  16. Mike Float recently had some good results with this https://studebaker-info.org/Avanti/Tech/MFloat/MFshifter/MFfourspeedshifteradjust.html
  17. My 70 (0381) came with Magnum 500 (15X6) @ +16mm offset. Positive offset wheels are more likely found on a FWD car wheel, but it was +16 . Magnums can be found online for almost any car. I believe they were used by Altman from the start.
  18. Ok, the cap wasn't vented. The hose still poured out excess fuel from overfilling tho.
  19. The gas cap is vented. Lately there's been a lot of speculation about what that escape hose is/was for. I've owned Avantis since the late 60's and the only purpose I have observed is that hose serves as an overflow for the tank, not a vent for the tank. ( the extended section over the axle certainly might create a draw at road speed to evacuate fumes, but certainly would not have been a mandated usage then because EPA wasn't born yet) . The Avanti tank filler is somewhat high on the body and there's a ~6" connector hose which has 2 clamps that can likely allow fuel to seep by if it were contained in that section. Fuel escaping the filler in that area will drain into the rear seat alcove and cause fumes in the car. Automatic fuel nozzle shutoffs were few and far between when the Avanti was a new car, probably not even invented yet.... The only way you knew the tank was full was when you watched and heard it come up in the filler tube. Taking your mind off the task would often allow it to slop out the filler and ruined lacquer paint was a big issue then. One owner came up with a rubberized bib that fit around the filler neck that stowed inside the gas filler door. When you pulled into a station and proudly hopped out to fill your tank, opening the filler door would allow the bib to flop out like a large tongue and extend almost a foot down the fender. It was certainly different, but helpful in preventing paint problems. So, the overflow tube allowed the excess fuel in the filler tube above the tank, and probably a little more to exit out of the tank and flow out over the right rear axle tube. The rubber should be replaced, since it's likely dry rotted. Even if it isn't, todays ethanol fuel will do it in quickly. Replacing the loop in the sail is not easy, but if you can thread a length of maleable wire ( rebar tie?) through the old one, you may be able to connect it to a length of new and pull it backwards through the sail, or even just push a decent length into the sail from one of the holes and allow it to naturally loop.
  20. 1st car to break the 10K price tag
  21. Think he would like this https://studebaker-info.org/index.html#garygetwell
  22. no vacuum advance
  23. tie rods or general alignment
  24. When I installed Koni's and changed the rear sway bar to the 1" size, the first hard corner I made, ripped the bottom plate off the passenger side at the wheel arch. I basically repaired it the same way but also drilled and installed four SAE grade 8, 3/8" X1.5" bolts on each side.
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