ReporterTN Posted December 18, 2018 Report Share Posted December 18, 2018 All the lights on my 63 work fine--parking, tail lights, turn signals, brake lights. The headlights will turn on ok, but then they blink off and on at about 10 second intervals, on both low and high beams. Each cycle I hear slight "boing" from a large circuit breaker mounted on a bracket just beneath the fuse block. It's about 1" by 2", and has three wires coming out. Do I need a new one, or can it be repaired? I can't find a picture in the parts manual, nor is there one in the Studebaker International catalogue. Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted December 18, 2018 Report Share Posted December 18, 2018 I would think about any 30 amp 12v circuit breaker would work but I'm a bit surprised it happens on high and low beams. The easiest fix is to get a generic 30 amp circuit breaker and try it. If it works, fine but my guess is you may be tracking down a short in your headlight circuit. Most auto stores should have a generic 30 amp circuit breaker available. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avantifred Posted December 19, 2018 Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 I had this problem too..........try replacing the high beam switch on the floor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studegary Posted December 19, 2018 Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 1 hour ago, avantifred said: I had this problem too..........try replacing the high beam switch on the floor The dimmer switch is what first came to mind for me also. Only $12.50 in the SI catalog. I doubt that the circuit breaker is the problem. I think that it is working and highlighting (no pun intended) a different problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunslinger Posted December 19, 2018 Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 You can buy a dimmer switch at NAPA or other parts dealer. It's a standard switch used by most every car maker for years before being relocated to the turn signal stalk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studegary Posted December 19, 2018 Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 14 hours ago, studegary said: The dimmer switch is what first came to mind for me also. Only $12.50 in the SI catalog. I doubt that the circuit breaker is the problem. I think that it is working and highlighting (no pun intended) a different problem. My answer (above) was predicated on the assumption that you are using standard original style headlights because you did not state otherwise. If you have changed to headlights that draw more current/amperage, your circuit breaker is just doing its job and protecting the circuit (switches, wires) from failure and/or fire. If you have changed the car to headlights that have a higher draw, you either need to upgrade the rest of the system (switches and wires) or at least go to a relay system so that the high current required of the lights does not go through the original system. Too many Avantis burn. The simplest is to go back to standard headlights. If you are using original style headlights, my original assumption, then either your dimmer switch is defective or your circuit breaker is tired and needs to be replaced (with one of the same value as the original) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron.Strasser Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 One thing no one has mentioned. The headlight switch is mounted in metal above the windshield with the wires running inside the windshield post. The power for the head lights goes from the circuit breaker to the switch above the windshield then to the dimmer switch. Since the trouble occurs on both high and low beams the problem I believe the short has to be in the circuit between the headlight and dimmer switches. As far as I know there is no metal around the dimmer switch for it to short out to. I agree with Gary; it could also be a defective circuit breaker. There could also be a short in the wiring harness going from the dimmer switch to both the high and low beam headlights. Again unlikely as the car body is fiberglass. There is nothing for the wiring to short to. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StudeNorm Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 (edited) Decades ago when my daily driver was a Studebaker I upgraded to H4 halogen lights and had the circuit breaker problem occur. I wired in a relay and dedicated power wires for the high beams and this fixed my problem. I do not recall needing a relay for the low beams. The Avanti I have now has halogen lights and all work as advertised. I don't see a relay system mounted under the hood so the previous owner may have upped the breaker to a higher rating. I suppose I should check. The dimmer switch idea of avantifred is cheap and easy to do so you could start there. Just throwing this out as something for you to consider. Edited December 20, 2018 by StudeNorm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad Posted December 22, 2018 Report Share Posted December 22, 2018 After you fix the wiring problem, change out the antique headlights to something that doesn't draw 30 amps!!! Then, you will never have to worry about putting in relays, or the switch contacts melting. LEDs are the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Footer Posted December 22, 2018 Report Share Posted December 22, 2018 Nice pic Brad, what LEDs did you install and how do you like them? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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