pantera928 Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 Well, after inspecting the inside of my torque boxes with a borescope using the drain holes at the bottom and two 1" hole I made in the fiberglass under the sill strips, I found them to be in remarkably good shape. Nevertheless, I treated them with POR-15 metal prep to neutralize the rust. I then flushed that out with fresh water after letting it sit overnight. I next dried them out using fresh heated air. Once satisfied that they were dry, i coated them with KBS rust seal. I let that dry for a few days and then sprayed in Eastwood Internal Frame coating and let it dry. I then sprayed in 3M cavity wax. Am I paranoid? Maybe but I don't want to let these things rust on me and I want to not be afraid to drive the car on a rainy day. Next, I will tackled the frame which shows some surface rust but nothing serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1963r2 Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Prevention is better than the cure. I will have to do the same. pb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 6 minutes ago, 1963r2 said: Prevention is better than the cure. I will have to do the same. pb That is my thinking. An ounce of prevention............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwindish Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 I check yearly on the torque boxes on my '76 and have not found any issues. Don't just look at the hog troughs. Here's a couple more areas for concern. I had the car painted in '15, rust was noted on the passenger side Windshield pillar, treated and repaired by the shop. Since the pillar is under the stainless strip, you don't normally see it. When I had a windshield replaced in an '89 convertible I had, rust was uncovered in the same exact spot as was on the '76. It might be an inherent weakness for rust at that spot. Last fall, I had the rear crossmember under the trunk of the '76 replaced and a new one welded in. It started flaking and once that thin wall pipe starts flaking, there's nothing left of the tubing. Avanti II owners should also be doing a good and thorough frame inspection on their Studebaker framed cars. Avanti Motors used left over Avanti/Lark frames for 20 years after Studebaker made them. Speculation was that the frames were stored outside in the elements and then cleaned up as they were needed. Once they ran out of the Lark convertible frames, lighter 6 cylinder frames were used and beefed up. 20 years out in the elements can cause a lot of damage to the steel frames, so please get under the car yearly and check out everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 I plan to attack the frame next. I have been under and all looks good but i want to keep it that way and not be afraid to drive on a rainy day. How hard is it to remove that stainless piece on the windshield? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwindish Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 The pieces just snap into place. The lower part of the windshield posts must be a good spot for the moisture to get trapped and accumulate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 3 hours ago, plwindish said: The pieces just snap into place. The lower part of the windshield posts must be a good spot for the moisture to get trapped and accumulate. And it probably wasn't rust protected originally. So if I unsnap it, I should be able to see any rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kodjo Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, plwindish said: The pieces just snap into place. The lower part of the windshield posts must be a good spot for the moisture to get trapped and accumulate. The stainless steel parts on my Avanti are screwed, not "clicked". The inside of the cover is . Maybe other cars have a different construction? Edited February 21, 2022 by Kodjo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 1 minute ago, Kodjo said: The stainless steel parts on my Avanti are screwed, not "clicked". The inside of the cover is . Maybe other cars have a different construction? Thanks. I will check and see how mine are attached. The weather outside right now sucks so maybe tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdaly Posted February 24, 2022 Report Share Posted February 24, 2022 Hopefully you won't find THIS! 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2022 1 hour ago, wdaly said: Hopefully you won't find THIS! 😬 Wow. That looks bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwindish Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 Both my '76 and '89 only had the rust from the bottom going upward for around 4". That pillar looks to be toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdaly Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 It WAS toast but replaced and FIXED (surgically). 😐 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 Nice repair job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwindish Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 Wm Daly, glad you got it properly fixed. Unfortunately, that's an area of concern that's not readily apparent, needing to take off the stainless in order to see the pillar. I met you in Milwaukee some years ago while my daughter was attending MSOE. Hope you and your car are doing fine. I sold my '89 convertible July '21 and am back to just having my '76 to enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdaly Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 I remember Paul. How could I forget that awesome '89! I gave my car to charity back in 2017. Noticed water on passenger side floor on the way back from the St. Louis meet back in '98? It had rained a lot then and I didn't think much of it. Later noticed leather on inside of pillar discolored. Finally realized I had a problem when I was forced to replace the heater core myself since no professionals were interested. Removed the dashboard (see my post under '87-'88 Forum) and broke the windshield - no professional window guys wanted that job either! Got my own window but THAT was when I realized I had a BAD pillar! A really nice guy on the SDC forum sold and shipped to me from CA a complete pillar assembly (cut for shipping). A surgeon/welder did the rest. btw I STILL have the drivers side pillar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 (edited) Wow, that is ugly looking. I wish there had been better rustproofing back then. Edited February 27, 2022 by pantera928 typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdaly Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 That 'bent' piece is actually the weatherstripping (I'm sure we cut it off before welding). I meant to add I really think this documented problem is really about no real waterproof seal (just the window rubber) that allows water in and freely gets behind the stainless steel pillar cover - needs extra sealing!!! 😑 Notice the sunroof drain line and power line sitting on roof. The pole is securing the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Dame Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 What is the best way to look for this when inspecting prior to purchase? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwindish Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 I don't know if there is a good way to spot a rusty pillar without taking the stainless piece off. I seriously doubt any seller is going to allow parts to be taken off to check. Maybe some body experts out there have an answer, but I don't. With the pillars always being covered like they are, I suspect garage kept Avantis as well as ones stored outside may all be vulnerable to the rust as moisture is going to stay under the stainless. My '76 has been garaged its entire life and still had some rust on the pillar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 20 hours ago, wdaly said: That 'bent' piece is actually the weatherstripping (I'm sure we cut it off before welding). I meant to add I really think this documented problem is really about no real waterproof seal (just the window rubber) that allows water in and freely gets behind the stainless steel pillar cover - needs extra sealing!!! 😑 Notice the sunroof drain line and power line sitting on roof. The pole is securing the roof. So the sunroof drains in the front via the A-pillar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantera928 Posted February 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 Well, you guys scared me enough with those pictures. So, I removed the trim piece on the sides and to my surprise, no rust. Just nice painted metal. It looks like someone added some caulking some time in the past. Maybe that is what saved it or maybe it is because it is a 26,000 mile original garage kept car. Anyway, I was ready with the POR-15 and/or the welder but now just breathing a sigh of relief!🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupo Posted March 12, 2022 Report Share Posted March 12, 2022 Permanent rust sealer contains moisture cured resin to block moisture. Aluminum flake is what used to cut off the oxygen. It is the most powerful industrial primer there is. When it moved to the automotive market somebody got the bright idea to substitute black pigment for the aluminum flake. treat all your metal with metal prep and follow it up to 2/3 coats of the aluminum pigmented moisture cured urethane.I've been involved in Industrial Coatings for over three decades , I started selling paint out of the back of my Avanti at car shows since 1988 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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