mfg Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 9 minutes ago, arkus said: after more research i found what i think you were using; edlebrock #2732 adapter. my only concern is that edlebrock expressly says it is used for edlebrock intakes. not ANY spread bore intake, but edlebrock. wonder why they were specific? I haven't purchased one in some time, but they used to be off the rack items at stores like Auto zone or Advance Auto, etc. However, if you can't locate one, you can MAKE one by utilizing 1/16" or even 1/8" sheet aluminum (or steel), and tracing out the adapter using an Edelbrock carb-to-manifold mounting gasket as a pattern.....Then use the correct size hole saws for the primary and secondary barrel holes, then drill the four 5/16" carb-to-manifold mounting holes. Trim the outer perimeter of your 'new' adapter to closely match the base gasket...... and there you have it!........Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 29 minutes ago, arkus said: after more research i found what i think you were using; edlebrock #2732 adapter. my only concern is that edlebrock expressly says it is used for edlebrock intakes. not ANY spread bore intake, but edlebrock. wonder why they were specific? Things like this are pretty generic.....It's fortunate for us that the Carter AFB/Edelbrock/Rochester Quadrajet carbs all have the same carb-to-manifold mounting bolt pattern. And, of course, Edelbrock wants to sell intake manifolds!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkus Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 thanks, after viewing the #2732 i decided to make my own, thinking i'd rather have the 4 holes than an open plenum. probably no difference, i just like the idea. there has to be a reason why both styles are made available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 1 minute ago, arkus said: thanks, after viewing the #2732 i decided to make my own, thinking i'd rather have the 4 holes than an open plenum. probably no difference, i just like the idea. there has to be a reason why both styles are made available. I agree....having a 'full base' platform gives better support for the stock Carter/Edelbrock mounting gasket.....Good luck with this!.......Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyM Posted August 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Hey all, So we got into the carb replacement yesterday. Had to cut off the fuel line at the carb, as the tube was fused to the flare nut and we couldn't get it loose. We tried to bend a new one, but our bending tool was a POS, so I ordered this one from Summit racing, which looks like a match: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CST-CAC1016-OE Anyway, when we removed the flare nut from the fuel pump, fuel started pouring out. Is that normal? I assumed it would only leak the fuel from the line and in the old carb, but it was at least a half cup or more and still flowing strongly until we got it plugged. The other two lines into the fuel pump (assuming a supply line and a return back to the tank?) also let fuel flow out of them easily, as if it was just pouring out of the tank. One of those lines (the one closer to the carb line/tube) had a rubber section between the fuel pump and the hard line back to the tank which was all broken down, so we replaced that 6" rubber piece, but we had to keep a finger stopper on the fuel pump as well as on the fuel line to keep them from flowing. I was under the impression that without the sending unit or fuel pump actually operational and powered up, very little fuel would leak, but clearly I'm wrong. How do we keep fuel from getting everywhere as we work on the fuel lines??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Remember that the tank sets high behind the rear seat and the vent line enters the top of the tank but goes quite low to be under the fuel level so it can also siphon back. My personal favorite method is to drain the tank down until there is no problem. Recall there is a drain plug in a tee under the passengers door. If you have an old piece of hose on the bottom of the tank, this is a good time to change it. If you think you have a leak now, imagine what it would be like if the hose under the tank let go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyM Posted August 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 45 minutes ago, Avanti83 said: Recall there is a drain plug in a tee under the passengers door. I hand't known that, thanks! Is it to drain the lines or the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 1 hour ago, AndyM said: I hand't known that, thanks! Is it to drain the lines or the tank? Both!.....be real careful when dealing with gasoline!!.....Have neoprene 'push on' plugs ready to cap off hard lines before tearing in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 4 hours ago, AndyM said: I hand't known that, thanks! Is it to drain the lines or the tank? Ed is correct, It's the low spot in the system so you'll get almost everything. But you should know that if you are replacing the hose under the tank there will be a pint to a quart of gas left in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyM Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Does anyone know what fuel line/tube would be the right match for this engine, between the carb and the fuel pump? I bought this one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CST-CAC1016-OE), which is an exact match for the top 3/4, but the bottom end near the pump is too long and some of the bends aren't right... this one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-cec1029-oe?rrec=true) looks closer, but I'm wondering if anyone has an easy answer without me buying another one.... might be this one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-mpc7701s/year/1977/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo), too, but it's not in stock for a month or more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 23 hours ago, AndyM said: Does anyone know what fuel line/tube would be the right match for this engine, between the carb and the fuel pump? I bought this one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CST-CAC1016-OE), which is an exact match for the top 3/4, but the bottom end near the pump is too long and some of the bends aren't right... this one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-cec1029-oe?rrec=true) looks closer, but I'm wondering if anyone has an easy answer without me buying another one.... might be this one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-mpc7701s/year/1977/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo), too, but it's not in stock for a month or more. It's strange the Camaro fuel line you purchased from Summit did not fit....It should have been very close!.....Anyway, if the end fittings on the line you purchased indeed do fit the carb and fuel pump, I'd utilize those fittings, install them on a generic 3/8" mild steel fuel line, double flare the ends of the line, and make bends in line to fit your application........Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyM Posted September 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 (edited) Ugh, we tried that, and the bends are a pain in my ass. Maybe I need a better bender, because the one I bought from the local parts store was a POS and caused all sorts of kinks, even with very careful pressure. Got any benders you recommend? Edited September 2, 2020 by AndyM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 On 9/2/2020 at 11:25 AM, AndyM said: Ugh, we tried that, and the bends are a pain in my ass. Maybe I need a better bender, because the one I bought from the local parts store was a POS and caused all sorts of kinks, even with very careful pressure. Got any benders you recommend? No matter what you're using, bending 3/8" steel fuel line is a real chore!...... In the past I have firmly clamped down on one of the end fittings (fitting installed on fuel line) with a vise, and then slowly worked the bend I wanted.... doesn't always work though!......Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverstude Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Bending any pipe is a breeze.. Just fill it with fine sand, tamp it in, tape off the ends and you could even use a pegboard with nails to get some tight curves.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 2 hours ago, silverstude said: Bending any pipe is a breeze.. Just fill it with fine sand, tamp it in, tape off the ends and you could even use a pegboard with nails to get some tight curves.... Good idea!...I'll try that sometime! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyM Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Holy shit you blew my mind. I now remember seeing old video of trumpets being made where they used pitch to fill the tubes before bending, and sand makes a lot of sense. Thank you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) On 9/2/2020 at 11:25 AM, AndyM said: Ugh, we tried that, and the bends are a pain in my ass. Maybe I need a better bender, because the one I bought from the local parts store was a POS and caused all sorts of kinks, even with very careful pressure. Got any benders you recommend? It's been long enough that I didn't remember but I've used this bender on up to 3/8" steel tubing. I couldn't find 3/8" but here is 5/16" bent just now. I know there is a big difference between 5/16 and 3/8 but this has worked for me in the past. The problem is I don't recall where I got nor does it have a brand name on it. It's probably from Amazon but I've had it for years and it works. Just clamp the fixed arm in the vice and slowly bend the tubing. If you don't need as sharp a bend you can use it like you are now using the vise, bend a little and move some. I believe the reason this one works is the curved area goes farther around the tube than the cheap ones. I've used the sand idea and it's another method but it's very dependent on very fine dry sand and gentle bends. Certainly worth a try on your tubing though. Edited September 3, 2020 by Avanti83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 I'd like to buy one of those Bob! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildfelr Posted September 24, 2020 Report Share Posted September 24, 2020 RQB 3263 81 Avanti II I replaced the OEM electronic q-jet with a rebuild NON electronic (one wire) ...bolted right on, hooked right up, and after one minor internal adjustment with phone assistance it has worked perfectly for 4 years.......no complaints, easy swap....BILL, MELROSE, FL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneC Posted September 25, 2020 Report Share Posted September 25, 2020 In 2006 I bought a remanufactured Quadrajet for my '71 from Recarbco.com, and about 4 years ago I rebuilt the Quadrajet on my '80 myself. The remanufactured carb looked and operated like new, it was much nicer than I imagined and certainly far better than the one I rebuilt personally. But it was expensive at the time: $280. Here is a pic of the '71 carb when it arrived: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti Jim Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 (edited) AndyM, have you considered removing, cleaning out, and sealing your fuel tank? It is most probably quite rusty inside like the tank in my '80 RQB-3109. The rust in the tank flakes off and travels through your fuel lines and will clog even a new fuel filter. It's really not all that hard to remove the tank and the sealant should protect your tank for another lifetime. Watch the many youtube videos on how to remove the rust. The POR15 kit is $73 on Amazon. Rust clogging a brand new fuel filter can easily mislead you into thinking that your new carb is suddenly having problems again. As was mentioned earlier, make sure you replace all "rubber" fuel lines with nitrile fuel lines. The ethanol in pump gas will eat your current rubber gas lines. O'Reilly's sells Gates safety stripe nitrile fuel line for $2 per linear foot and you'll need less than two feet for your entire car. It's 3/8 inch inside diameter Gates part# 27004. The salesman with have to cut it off a roll in their back room. When i pulled my tank, the 8" rubber fuel feed line (just above the rear axle pumpkin) crumbled to pieces in my hand when I took it off the brass tank connector. Don't let the ORielly's salesman fool you into buying the prepackaged Prestone fuel line. It is NOT nitrile and will fail. There's nothing quite like watching your Avanti piss 21 gallons of gasoline on the ground at a stop light. Here's my quick fuel tank removal video: Edited October 11, 2020 by Avanti Jim Incomplete explanation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverstude Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Nice video. Nice of you to do the video too. My 70 Avanti received the same treatment a number of years ago. The one difference I noted was that the panel behind the rear seat was not only screwed on, but there was also a sealer on the edge under the screws. My guess was that it prevented fuel odors from entering the cabin. There was around 4 gallons of stale fuel in my tank and it was painstaking to get out. The rubber line at the tank drain at the fuel line was removed and a piece of ductile wire stuck into the opening to clear the way. Once the tank was out, I used a product from NAPA to clean, etch and line the inside of the tank. thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildfelr Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 RQB 3263 /81/305.....I replaced my electronic q-jet with a re-man NON electric q-jet from National Carb in Jacksonville, fl but any overhauler can build you one...... obviously a direct bolt on and one wire hook up to choke ...very good phone assistance with a minor internal adjustment and it works fine now for 3+ years.... and then you can remove all the BS wiring associate with the orig. q-jet....works fine for me .....BILL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 I just last month overhauled a non-electronic GM QuadraJet carb for a friend who owns a Buick....Hadn't done one in awhile, and it was a pleasure to work on! I tried a suggestion which I had heard about........I left the tiny clip off that connects the fuel needle to the float arm....Doing this keeps gasoline in fuel bowl if car sits for a few weeks, as the slowly descending float can't pull the needle off the brass seat...............so far, SO GOOD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyM Posted July 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 Hey everyone, it's been a while! We finally got a carb, but the fuel line was fused to the old carb, so it took us another couple months to source the right line from Summit, then another couple months to get it installed. The engine fired right up and ran BEAUTIFULLY for about 30 seconds, then puttered and died. My neighbor thinks the fuel pump gave out right then, although he also mentioned the rust/clogging issues that people have mentioned here. I don't have much time to spend tinkering with this thing, as I have a young daughter, a busy wife, and some sick family members, so my time is precious. Dropping the tank is really not an option. Given that, what would you all suggest would be my next steps to resolve this? Option 1 is just to swap the fuel filter and see what happens. Option 2 is to try and feed the filter from an external gas canister (run the supply lines from the pump into a container of clean gas) to isolate the pump and diagnose from there. Options 3 is replace the lines, the filter, and possibly also the pump, all in one go, and see what happens. Option 4 is to just take it to a shop and let them figure it out. thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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