Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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By the same logic, if the top of the loop in the vent line is well above the tank top, why would the fumes go up and out the vent line?
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AMC column if it's like mine. I don't recall my exact procedure but here's an AMC post.
https://theamcforum.com/forum/how-to-remove-ignition-switch-1974-matador_topic49318.html
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Yes, use a decent size flatblade screwdriver.
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Looks right. Both nuts should be tight to the yoke and in the correct position when you can set the emergency brake before it reaches the limit of it's pull.
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7 hours ago, IndyJimW said:
For those who may be interested, Chevrolet makes a serpentine belt kit that fits ALL small block Chevrolet engines. The new Part # 19418818 and it sells at my Chevrolet dealer for $1129.69.
https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/engine-components/small-block/accessory-drive-systems
Kit includes brackets, belt, pulleys, bolts, water pump, alternator, power steering pump and a/c compressor.
I have run this system on my Avanti for 15 years.
Good luck all,
Jim Wood
That's a good deal considering all the included parts. Can you use a standard fan with that setup. If so, it's better than my setup that required an electric fan due to the distance between the drive and the radiator.
I have a ton of Chevy parts from the early 90's and found that the setup from most early 90's serpentine systems will work if you use the Camaro passengers side mounting bracket to keep the a/c unit low. You may also need to drill and tap one hole in the passenger side cylinder head depending on the year the head came from.
This is mine although the idler on the passengers side now has a Sanden Compressor replacing the idler pulley.
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T-56 six speed should get you 450 lb/ft but to go higher just go to Tremec.
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If you want a different cover there should be plenty available for a Dana 44 housing from the 4X4 community. Realistically, I'd take some material off the plug base and move on. You could also measure the OD of the base and go to a Big Box store and see if they have a larger one in their inventory. Not all plugs are threaded to the same depth so I'll bet there are ones that will fit better. Your cover could also have the threads opened up by overtightening. Several ways to reduce the problem.
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On 6/2/2021 at 10:15 AM, DaytonaR2 said:
Do you have the panels that go on the forward part of the console that have the side outlets for air-conditioning?
These are out of my 83. If you are interested, I'll look for the grills.
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On 6/2/2021 at 10:15 AM, DaytonaR2 said:
Do you have the panels that go on the forward part of the console that have the side outlets for air-conditioning?
I may have a couple off a 74 or 83 if you are interested. I'll check if you are interested.
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Just to be sure we're all on the same page, Dan doesn't recommend a dry installation. As above he recommends 3M bedding compound prior to the installation and the Butyl rubber sealant afterwards.
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I have a pair of the standard issue seats from a 74. I suspect you are a long way from Michigan but we can talk if you want.
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The workshop manual shows the screw locations that need to be accessed through the holes in the window seal. Take a look at it carefully, the drawing is pretty good.
Luckily new window seals are available and there is also a top weatherstrip seal used. The description is quite good if you can locate the screws.
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21 hours ago, Tim G said:
Thanks for the info guys. I have someone locally offering $250. That's fair, right? Shipping does not seem cost effective and like I said I just want to see this get used instead of sitting around.
I have no idea about the value but it's currently worth $250 as that's the offer. Bottom line is you can move it on or wait for a better offer which my allow you keep stumbling over it for the next 10 years or more.
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Just thinking out loud here, but if you have a stock L48, headers will do little to add to gitty-up as you have already added duals.. Those were 180-190 hp smog engines so a better investment IMO would be a cam and heads upgrade or all the way with new pistons.
Also recall the 360 hp Corvette L84 ran 2.5" ram horns quite successfully.
If you've all ready done that then good luck with your quest for better headers. Please post when you find them.
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The biggest problem with headers or any exhaust manifolds is they need to clear the steering box on the drivers side. I just used the 2 1/2 in "vette Ram Horn manifolds from the early 60's. Speedway sells an aftermarket Ram Horn that should fit and, I believe, another member has used ones from Sanderson.
As far as better flow, the SBC Ram Horns were pretty good, even compared to headers, and you'll also want to upgrade your entire system also. Let me suggest the 2 1/4" stainless system from Don Simmons at Silvertone exhaust.
The problem with most headers is they need to go up and around to get past the steering box and few do that.
Here's my install on my 83 with Don's system. He sized the head pipes to fit my 2 1/2" manifolds.
I did my own 2 1/2" system on my 74 with a couple of headpipes bent at a local shop.
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Try applying brake disc lube behind the pads and any sliding surface before you start throwing parts at it. Just ask at your FLAPS what they recommend.
Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
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Put a mechanical gauge in the system temporarily to check the true pressure. They're fairly inexpensive from Ace Hardware to Amazon.
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If nothing appears, try Ebay
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Be careful about loading the rear shock mounts with a lot of weight from load leveling shocks as it not that strong. Let the rear suspension do the work and the shocks control rate.
A complete front rebuild kit with refurbished king pins is about $1000 in parts if required. Rear bushing another $100 or so.
When I rebuilt the front on my 74 I used Delrin bushing on the A-arms and urethane on the sway bars which also helps firm it up.
Gunslinger is right about the handling being a 50's design but if the suspension is in top notch shape they are reasonably capable road cars when on good radials.
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1 hour ago, Jred said:
improper grounding would be more than the ground from the battery? Somewhere along the wires from the tail lights forward?Everything (almost) on a fiberglass car has to be grounded through a seperate wire attached to the housing and a ground usually part of the wiring harness going to the battery or frame. All the lights will have grounds to them. Check those attachments for contact and corrosion. Corrosion will increase the resistance and cause issues like you are having.
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If the fuse is bad again, I'd start looking for the cause which in these cars can be proper grounding.
IAC, for important lights, I'd install an in-line circuit breaker.
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If you have trouble finding seats about any late model mid or full size car seats will fit. That will give you more adjustment and heat if so desired.
I used 2007 Pontiac G6 leather seats in my 74 Avanti and 07 Acura seats in my 54 Studebaker. They are both much better seats than the ones in my 1983 Avanti if you don't mind non-stock.
Personally in today traffic, I want the high backs well anchored to the frame for support if I get rearended. Someday I'll get the GTP removed by the same upholster that did my dash.
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I have KYB's on mine but be sure that the front suspension is in A1 shape. Both of my Avanti needed rebuilding when I bought them so I did it in my polebarn. With good shocks, 17" radial tires and the newer suspension components it rides surprisingly well. I also did the rear bushings at the same time.
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15 hours ago, RoyG said:
I was born and raised a Studebaker guy, and am doing this car to get back to my roots, so I will stay with the Stude engine, but I want a higher ratio TT rear end for extra "zip" off the line, but a fifth (or sixth) gear for better fuel economy on trips. I don't know the "pros and Cons" of a ford 9" R/A over the Stude unit, so more research will be needed in that area.
Ford 9" is the standard for performance rear ends and the aftermarket ones can be had in about any configuration at reasonable (not cheap) costs. The 63 should have a Dana 44 rear end but it came standard with non-flanged axles and a low spline count. Hard to do maintenance on the brakes and not as strong as later units.
The 44's can be upgraded to later technology but for a few dollars more you could get a 9". Both choices should be adequate for your needs. Moving the Avanti brackets to a 9" axle is straight forward.
Donut spare from my 74. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/114056-avanti-temporary-spare
In the above post you can see the 17X8" Mustang Bullit wheels on it. They size match all around. I have staggered sizes on my 83 Avanti but much prefer the same size on all four from an balanced looks standpoint.
My write up and further thoughts on the Mustang wheels. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/110102-mustang-wheels-become-avanti-wheels
AC, how much R12?
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
The best way I've found is to use Google search.
Just type in "Avanti R12 how much" and it will come up high on the list.