Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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When I rustproofed the hog troughs on my 83, I removed the door sill trim, pulled back the carpet and cut several 3" holes with a hole saw. Sprayed them and then replaced the disks put back the carpet and trim.
Made it pretty easy to get light into the area and cover everything.
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2 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:
To make a little noise, I will update on my progress on hog trough replacement etc. Look under topic of scope creep. Chassis is almost done. Lots of cleanup, paint and NOS parts.
Just a thought, but why not start a separate post on major projects like hog trough replacement. It will make the repairs easier to find in the future for folks interested in how it's done.
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3 hours ago, George Rohrbach said:
Avanti83 -
What are your pipes wrapped with? And how much do you think that it really helps with that nasty Avanti cabin heat problem, that we all deal with? Any problems with rust underneath it?
George Rohrbach
The wrap is DEI exhaust wrap, good stuff.. Because the exhaust manifolds are not wrapped there is still a fair amount of heat but it really keeps the heat away from the starter and other heat sensitive items. I've used it on several cars in the past without any rust issues.
It was really effective in my 39 Ford coupe with SBC because there were headers that were wrapped from the heads to well under the car. There's no reason the exhaust manifolds couldn't be wrapped but I've not done that to mine. That should really help with the heat.
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Considering they could charge extra for the upgrade, I'll say false.
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These folks are well known for their work. https://www.larescorp.com/
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I'd probably just extend the tubes to go through the boxes and dump to the ground like standard a/c drains. They would also be easier to clean with air pressure as you can get to them.
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40 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
That looks nice @Avanti83. Good sound?
To quote gunslinger - "It's not a real Avanti unless the ground shakes under when you fire it up." This is a real Avanti. My 83 is much quieter.
383 cu in of SBC stroker power.
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2 hours ago, Jim78 said:
Don Simmons at Silvertone Exhaust Systems has been doing Studebaker and Avanti stainless exhaust systems for many years. I used his system on my '78 to replace the factory cat system with plain old duals. The quality is excellent, and he does offer 2-1/2" if you are so inclined. Personally, I feel that the 2" is more than adequate for an L48. While his ads don't list '75-'83 because they have the cat system, he was able to provide the proper exhaust pipes (essentially a '65-'74 system) once we identified which manifolds were on my engine. I would suggest that you give him a call.
Jim is correct except the Silvertone system is 2 1/4" not 2 1/2" as indicated. I have that setup on my 83. He builds them swedged to fit the Vette 2 1/2" manifolds. His standard system is 2" stainless steel.
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51 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
Thanks. I have a local shop that does my custom work. I will talk to them
Have them look particularly at the driver's side manifold connection. It's a bit of a b--th to fabricate.
Here's the one I did on my 74.
This is the finished project with 2 1/2" pipes. Your exhaust will be 2" so you'll need to find 2 1/2" manifolds. They are available aftermarket for reasonable dollars. Look for mid-60's Corvette manifolds.
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Jim
As you know I did my 74 with razor blades and it was not a fun job. Several years ago I bought a used ARE fiberglass topper for my truck that needed a repaint. After much looking I bought a gallon of water based stripper from West Marine. It did a darn good job on the cured base coat/ clearcoat on it. Washes off with water so no bad residue like the Aircraft type strippers. It's made for fiberglass stripping applications.
If you want to try it you can buy a quart for about $30 to see how it works.
If I had to do the 74 again, I'd use this stuff.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/back-to-nature--aqua-strip-paint-stripper-gallon--4563136?recordNum=1
Good luck, Bob
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The down pipe off the manifolds to the mufflers looks stock but the mufflers are not. From the head pipe back it's been replaced.
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2 hours ago, mfg said:
Great info!......maybe I've just been lucky!!
Considering you said you drive mostly city miles I would think it wouldn't be a problem as most converters lock up around 40 mph IIRC. I do the same thing with my 2004R, just engage the converter lockup switch at highway speeds.
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3 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Well, I have a TH400 in my 1980 with a 350CI
What was the first year that Avanti used an AOD transmission?
I believe it was 1983. Mine had a 700R4.
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This is a copy of the wheel offerings on my 83. Avanti Motors was known to put about anything on the car that a buyer would want but it should be documented on the build sheet which may be available from Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors.
This is how mine was equipt from the factory. The wire wheel option on mine were chrome wheels with a separate wire insert and Avanti logo that differs from the above selections. They are also available cheap although not in prime condition.
Picture of my 83 with OEM wheels
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2 hours ago, wildfelr said:
RQB3263/81/305......I dont understand the fascination with the 200r4.....please explain to me the advantage over the 700.....if it is availability and the overdrive then I think you will be happier with the 700...... ON ANOTHER NOTE.....does anyone know of a disc brake conversion for the original 81 rear end ?I dont want to change out the whole thing and loose my 2.72 rear gear.... Bill on a cold, wet, nasty morning in Florida ....thanks
Bill
I suspect the fascination with the 200 boils down to 1-size, smaller than the 700 and 2- The 700 has a much lower 1st gear to get heavy cars and trucks rolling with those under 3:00 numerical gears. Personally, Avanti Motors thought the 700 was fine for their cars, my 83 came with one so they can't be that bad.
Turner makes a rear brake setup for the Dana but I don't know if it fits the later ones. He says it fits the Fairborn flanged axle set up however.
Google up Dana rear disc conversion and you'll see there are a ton of aftermarket suppliers for Jeep rear disc conversions and those should fit Avanti's if they fit similar years. When I rebuilt my 44 in the 1974 I used the rebuild bearing and seal kit from a 72 IH Scout II
BTW, -3 F when I got up this morning so sorry to hear about your cold spell. 😉
Missing that great Florida BBQ though.
Bob
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A little Google goes a long way. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/swap-to-a-700r4-from-a-th350-th400-200-4r/
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2 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Agreed. Not as easy as it sounds. What is IAC?
In Any Case
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1 hour ago, pantera928 said:
Yes it is but if you adjust the tie rods so that the ends fall into the holes where they were before, the front end geometry(toe-in) "should" not change from where it was prior to installation of the quick steering arms
I won't disagree if one can keep them in place while removing the original long arms which is not a trivial effort. Been there, done that and have the tee shirt. IAC, eye of the beholder
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Isn't adjusting tie rods part of an alignment, toe-in.
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Look aftermarket from here. I doubt Avanti Corp would add that cost unless a customer asked and paid for it.
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I agree that we have a wealth of knowledge in Dan and the rest of the vendors. The down side is they are all approaching their dotage and there doesn't appear to be many younger folks ready to take up the impending shortfall.
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When I did the one's on my 74 I cut the rocker panels off as you can see in this post. The bolts holding the HT's on must be removed from the area inside the car just in front of the rear armrests.
Here's some thoughts from Bob Johnstone's site on the topic. Be to click on the links under the HT pictures.
https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Hogt/troughs07.html
Bob's site will have other thoughts on the topic also.
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35 minutes ago, JavierB said:
Did you have to cut a piece of the inside fiberglass bracing to get it to fit? That has been my primary hesitation in going with the NuRelics is I saw an install video about having to cut a segment out and it gives me a bit of pause.
Yes you need to cut out a vertical piece in the door. I don't see how it weakens the door significantly and you end up with a warrantied functional system.
I've posted my install before but here it is in case you missed it. Pretty straight forward.
Scope creep
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
I've used the TCP Acrylic Enamel catalyzed on several projects and I like it because it lays down well when spraying and can be sanded and buffed to a very nice finish. Two other benefits are darn good pricing for what you get and repair is much easier that bc/cc.
Used two gallons of Daytona Yellow on my 74 and there is enough left for minor repairs in the future.