Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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If it's like the 83 it is the Electronic choke engine light and should come on when started and go off shortly after. If it stays on, it indicates a problem with the choke circuit, if it doesn't come on, bad bulb or contact. That's from the 83 owner manual.
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I suspect that it's again the variability between cars and years with Avanti's. Jim told me about this issue when he put in the struts and I was surprised as there was no issue with mine. He's provided the solution and IIWM I install the the braces he designed as flex in fiberglass is not a good thing. If I see issues with mine down the road, I'll be doing the same.
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Yup!! Did it on my 74. Installed them on both sides. You will need to cut a slot in the underside of the hood to install the reinforcement plate like the one you have currently on the other side for the support.
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1 hour ago, Pete Rutledge said:
Like you, I've been considering a doughnut spare for my '64, so that the spare tire lid will properly seat on the spare tire well. It's good to hear that there are temporary spares as new as '12 that have the right bolt pattern. I wonder how the OD compares to the 15" higher profile tires more commonly found on Avantis, especially the Studebaker variety. Can you tell us the OD of the temporary spare you got? Thanks.
A quick measurement shows about 26.5". The tire size chart shows 26.6"
This is the tire size calculator I used to find the one in my size. It seemed to have a lot of the doughnut sizes. Just for the record, I also use 114.3 mm for the bolt pattern.
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They came with an owner manual that was sparse info at best. Why not take a picture and point out what you want to know about. I suspect the assemblage here stands a good chance of helping. If you can't add notes to a J-peg file, just print out a picture of the dash, number the switches in question and then take a picture of that and post it here.
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I looked over my pictures and Dick Steinkamp's write up and only see two. I drilled two holes to get at them and the CE hog troughs only have two holes in the rollbar bulkhead so until I see a picture or several of three bolts into the hog trough bulkhead, I sticking with 2 as the answer.
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two
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I don't often add too these posts but if I have a decade or so less years on me I'd seriously consider that 4 door quad headlight car as a candidate for an S-10 chassis setup and drive the hell out of it.
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3 hours ago, TED DIMON said:
Take the glovebox door to a good locksmith. They'll make you a key or change the tumblers to a new key, whatever they think is best. You could just pull the lock also, whatever you think is easier.
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4 hours ago, studegary said:
The comment; "...in the process of removing the engine from all of the computer controls..." bothers me. The engine may not run depending on what has been removed. Do you have the removed parts? Can you describe what has been removed?
Good question Gary, I assumed he hadn't touched the computer setup yet. If he has, at a minimum, it will probably need a new carb and distributor.
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Sure looks good to me with the earlier bumpers. I'd be happy to drive this one.
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Several thoughts but first welcome back.
Initially see if you can get it running. Fresh gas, you can drain the tank by removing the pipe plug from the tee in the gas line under the passengers seat. Then pull the plugs, clean them and before you put them back, see if the engine will turn over with the starter after you have added a small amount of Marvel mystery oil to the cylinders. If so, replace the plugs, hook up a timing light and see if you have spark. If you do, add a few gallons of fresh gas to the tank and try to start the engine. If it runs, then how well? If pretty good than check the brakes and emergency brake, if they are good let it warm up and then stop, change the oil and antifreeze.
Now it should be close to driveable. If you can safely take it out then do so and see where you are.
Once you have done this or the engine is frozen/won't run or the brakes are bad get back and we'll help you spend your money on alternatives.
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There is one on my 83.
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I believe you but do have any pictures of the setup? Seems inefficient at first blush.
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I would believe side by side would result in temp variations and capital expense increases so I say in-line.
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If you are interested in the car staying close to original, start a conversation with Jack Vines Packard V8 above about having your engine or a replacement rebuilt.
Ir you don't care about original, get a recent Chevy LS with your choice of trans and put it in. Cheap performance and reliability.
There are engine mounts to adapt the LS to the older SBC mounts used in the later Avanti's and programming is available to upgrade the original LS computer to be used in another vehicle.
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2 hours ago, navye8 said:
I might say that the only reason I used 700 was because it was setting on garage floor looking for a home. I think the 200R4 would be better because of smaller size or maybe a AOD
My 83 was originally equipt with a 700R4 and it fit so there is room in the 63/64's I would think. I replaced it with a 200R4 witch, of course, fit better.
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24 minutes ago, A83 said:
Do you mind telling me the cost of the paint job I may be needing one soon. I am getting estimates of $15000.I
Thank you.
That's probably in the ballpark for a complete strip and paint. The problem with painting an Avanti, or any old car - for that matter, is it's labor intensive and there are not many shops left that want to do one. There are just a lot of hours involved, I know because I did my 74 from strip to body work to paint to buffing. The cost of materials alone will probably run 20% of that if you just use quality materials and ordinary enamel or bc/cc colors with no high end pearls etc.
Around here, one can usually find someone that will do it in their garage for about 1/3 to 1/2 of that but you need to know them quite well. You might talk to local folks that have had it done on their vintage rides. Asking at car shows is generally a good way but that's not available currently.
If you can find a local Corvette club, you might get hold of the officers and ask who they might recommend on price vs quality.
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Don't forget that the GM overdrive transmissions listed above (non-electronic shift) need a TV cable connected to the carb linkage. That controls shift points and needs to be adjusted correctly to keep a healthy transmission.
You can also use the newer e-series but you'll need a controller to handle the shifting, about $500 or so but there are a ton of those available in the parts yards.
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As said before, the next easiest thing to check is the u-joints on the driveshaft. Issues on deceleration are one sign of that.
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1 hour ago, Paul K. said:
Not sure if this is an Avanti Urban Legend but I heard that the earlier the Avanti II was, the better in regard to the frames. Apparently, Avanti Co. stored their frames piled up like firewood outside in the weather. The newer the Avanti II, the rustier and weaker the frames were. Of course the frames were cleaned up and painted before building cars but they were not stored properly. Also, I think later on they ran out of Lark convertible frames and welded in the X crossmember to standard frames. Not a big deal if the welding is good. On the earlier motor mount comment from anither poster, I had a 74 Avanti that had the left motor mount area of the frame cracked. But I also had a 72, and a 76 with no issues in this area.
My 74 frame cracked in both motor mount areas of the frame. While most will probably blame the 400 SBC mine had a 350 as the OP didn't want the 400. It was due to missing washers under the nuts that made contact with the frame and resulted in point loading that caused the failure. One of the reasons I contend my 83 was much better is the higher level of assembly, fit and finish of the later ones.
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I agree with looking at fuel issues for starters but the other Issue I always look at when losing power under load is timing and advance. Be sure the plugs, points and wires are good and put a timing light on it to look at both initial and advance when it's warmed up.
Also be sure the secondary's are opening and you have fuel from the accelerator pump.
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Google up Studebaker Vendors and call around to see what's available. Myers, Nostalgic, etc should be some help. Not inexpensive however.
avanti II seat parts?
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
I'm not sure what's the model year of your car but if it has the three point harnesses for the front seats you can use any number of newer bucket seats and possibly aftermarket like Procar as some suppliers offer Avanti seat tracks that bolt in.
While the Sebring seats are a decent call for Studebakers, I'd be very Leary about mounting then in an Avanti with out providing rear mounting points to the frame. The Avanti floor is fiberglass and if you hit something it's not only your weight but the weight of the seat and the lever action of the seat height bearing directly on the flimsy mounts under the floor.
When I put the newer seats in my 74 Avanti, I built a seat mount that incorporated mounting to the frame mounts under the seat as the driver's right side clasp of the seat belt is mounted to the side of the seat. That way both attachment points of the 3-point harness have 7/16" grade eight bolts holding my fragile arse in the seat which also has 7/16" bolts holding the seat frame in place also. That's the bolt size used in most contemporary cars for seat installation.
Remember the Avanti represents safety designs of the early 60's so whatever one can do to make them safer is worth the time.