Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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54 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
Well, it is for some things. Thanks.
But that link still doesn't tell me if it was truly beneficial. Also, I have seen others in pictures that look like a lot better fit.
I would like to know what year cars those came on so I can search the next time i am in a junk yard
Saturn GM OEM 95-02 Sc2 Radiator Support-air Deflector 21031161
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7 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
No one can answer these questions?
Google's pretty good at that so I'm told. https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Cooling/SOBradiator/sdc42115sobrad.html
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I have a passenger's manual window mechanism from my 74, If they are the same, I'll post a couple of shots.
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Now that is nasty. I don't have any access to the factory repair but I'd get on the phone to Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors and ask his advice.
He would probably also be one of the best sources for the repair panel which would make the job easier. It also looks like some one tried to repair it previously due to the rectangular shape of the cracking at the base of the mechanism.
Otherwise, IIWM, I'd probably make an impression of the drivers side area and duplicate it in fiberglass to patch this side. You could also reinforce it with a metal plate if necessary.
A second person to ask advice is Brad Bez on this forum or at his business https://www.bezautoalchemy.com/
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This is like the wiring harness I used. It's from Speedway motors and I can't buy the wire and parts for the cost of $200 or so.
BTW, your radiator and fan setup looks very much like the Cyclone setup in my 74. You're building a nice ride.
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I'll add one more thought - pull the motor mounts off the frame and look for cracks. The SBC put a lot of stress in that area as I found when I pulled mine.
The reason some failed is Avanti Motors left the washers of the bolts
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I'll share some suggestions based on what I did to my 74 when I added the 383/T56 and completely went through everything.
- Move battery to trunk
- Remove cowcatcher bumper - this entails keeping the rear of the bumper mount which is also the body and radiator mount
- Repair (reglass) the cowcatcher holes cut in the body and repair the grill with 1/8" stainless rod
- Add aftermarket heat/ac
- Replace radiator with aluminum unit or recore yours.
- Replace existing wiring with a complete 21 fuse setup
- Replace seats with more modern (comfortable) units
- Repair all the extraneous holes under the hood
- Rebuild the entire suspension system front and rear. I used Delrin in the A-arms and polyurethane in the sway bars.
- Replace rear end gearing to a better ratio if necessary when you add the Posi.
I can go on but these are starters for your consideration.
Here's my engine compartment.
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In my experience, the answer is no. The turn signals should not cancel the CC. Jim is correct about the brake pedal but you should also be able to also cancel/disengage the CC from the control on the turn stalk.
Your issue might point to a broken or bare wire or bad switch causing the issue. IIRC, a lot of the CC used by Avanti Motors were made by Dana Corp (now Rostra). If the issue is in the switch then you might be able to find one by Googling Rostra CC. I don't know if they make them anymore but I found a complete new unit at a swap meet a few years back for my 74. There should be some available on Ebay and most of the usual suspects.
If it's connection it might be advantageous to pull the steering wheel to look at the wiring.
Overall, if it's only this problem I might just live with it. YMMV
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No idea about a diagram but whenever I use a scissor jack I use the A-arms in front and the axle tube near the spring mounts in back. I usually keep a piece of wood to place between the jack and the A-arms.
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On 5/25/2022 at 11:05 AM, mfg said:
An '89 Avanti dash in a '70...sounds like a big job!
It's actually close to a bolt in. If you use the whole dash the console would need to be modified. If you modify the dash you can keep the 74 console like I did.
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4 hours ago, pantera928 said:
With the tires on them would make them expensive to ship indeed. I may be up your way later this Summer if you are not in a big hurry
No hurry, they are setting in a storage shed where they have been for a few years. The shed needs to come down sometime but I'll let you know if it becomes an issue.
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I have 4, they are cheap if you want them, like free. Getting them to you is the question as the tires are still on them.
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27 minutes ago, mfg said:
Yes, ...have a lot of patience, and don't try to force or bend anything!
I've found it works well to carefully align door in its opening first... then begin the window adjustments....The shop manual is a good guide here.
Ed's correct but I'll add a couple of things I do. First, pull the striker - then close the door and loosen the hinges. Now align and gap the door. The best way to get the door straight in the opening is to cut a couple strips of wood longer than the door opening and tape them to the door and body near the top and bottom so the door is in-line with the body.
When the gaps are correct, swing the hinges back in-line with the door mounting points. When you see the hinges are parallel with the door mounts, measure that gap and make steel shims to that measurement. When you tighten everything the door should be aligned. Because of the length the door may drop slightly on the latch end but it's now easy to loosen the appropriate hinge screws and move the back up keeping the rest of the alignment intact.
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This wheel represents what they look like. Measurements are 3 3/4" back space while the width seems to be 6 1/2". It's hard to get good measurements as the tires are still on them. But I get 3 3/4 BS plus about 2 5/8" from front side. I'm measuring from the flat part of the wheel rim not the raised flange portion.
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Personally, if I were installing a first class sound system in an Avanti and I have. I'd run new wires to the speakers both front and rear and enjoy the sound you paid for. The wiring to the rear runs down the drivers side, along the rockers or center console and into the trunk behind the rear seat on the same side. You'll find there are a couple of clips holding the OEM wires so I'd just drill a new access hole for the new wires.
Also run a good power wire and ground to the radio for good known sources.
The rear seat is pretty easy to get out as well as the rear fire wall as are the trim pieces along the door sill to run the new wires under the carpet. Just re-caulk the firewall and listen to tunes with the new system.
The age of these cars make them a mess wiring wise so I generally just remove what I can and run new wires in neat harnesses.
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On 5/1/2022 at 10:42 PM, pantera928 said:
am looking for a set of used 15/7 magnum 500 wheels
I have the ones off my 74. Rough and not sure about 6 or 7 inch. I'll check if you're interested.
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Here's a list of vendors. Pay particular attention to Nostalgic, Myers and Studebaker international.
https://www.studebakervendors.com/
Nostalgic Motors is owned by Dan Booth, who has worked on Avanti's for years and has most of the OEM parts available. Call him if you need help beyond what you can get here.
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4 hours ago, Jred said:
Thanks for the pictures everyone. Gives me food for thought.
Im now considering a major overhaul on the engine compartment. Front and rear main seals need replacing and I'd like to make the engine unleaded friendly while adding some horse purrs...
If you have the engine out and you want to gain decent HP, talk to a major cam supplier, like comp cams, about your needs and they'll suggest a cam that will work well in your application. If you are going to go to unleaded gas and you should, get a decent set of aluminum heads that will give you hardened valve seats, good valve size and increased compression before you modify your old heads.
Add a decent, inexpensive dual plane manifold and carb and enjoy an SBC that runs the way it should.
Or just buy a decent crate engine and drop it in.
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1 hour ago, arkus said:
any real world experience replacing stock '63 p/w mechanisms with nu-relics? i want to reuse my original switches. my original pieces have been "improved", (maybe), by additional added welded pieces but i'm not sold on them ever working as they should. thanks
Yup! Used them in my 74. Highly recommend them. Here's my writeup.
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3 hours ago, mfg said:
Uh oh!...sounds like we touched a nerve here folks!
Well, as explained in AVANTI MAGAZINE issue 179, in the spring of 2017 John Hull and a friend poured through approx 2,200 Avanti ll build sheets ('65-'82) to determine how many four speed equipped Avantis Newman/Altman had built....This is where this info came from.....
I can list the last six Newman/Altman Avanti ll's built with four speeds.....RQB................2112......2123......2127......2136......2153......2175
Hope this information helps!
Nope, no nerve, Just didn't recall that info in spite of the fact I probably have that issue. CRS is my excuse.
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Well now that that turd has hit the punchbowl again, What's the documentation for a four-speed in 2175. Not arguing just asking.
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42 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
Just looked at the video. Very nicely done. What dash pad did you use.
Dash is out of a late 80's Avanti, modified to eliminate the center console portion and adding digital gauges, etc. Local upholster covered it in grained vinyl. He did an excellent job.
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43 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
Thanks
Just saw it on Bob Johnstones site. Did you get it fixed up? How do you like it with the 4-speed?
Yup, it 95% complete. It now has a T56 6-speed and a fair bit different than when I bought it.
Picture is the finished car which I've posted a number of times.
The URL is a youtube video of the engine and passenger compartment.
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I'm also curious as to why he used the Stude box when any number of Saginaw Steering boxes from that era came with splined shafts OEM.
3EE Battery
in 1963-64 Avanti
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Just to be sure, the 3EE battery was used in a number of commercial applications, have you tried tractor etc. dealers about ordering one.