Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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It was probably the 300 hp 350 with 10.25 compression. It was the second lowest HP 350 available and was probably available in about any body style that Chevrolet built in that year.
There were at least 2 higher HP iterations of the 350 and the selection of availability in some body styles probably was reduced with these, but recall, They would put most anything you wanted in about anything you wanted at this time if it was on the order sheet.
Same should apply if it was a 327.
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As said above about engine size. There was never an issue with selling Chevrolet V-8's to Studebaker and then Avanti. The 65-66 Canadian built Studebaker's were powered by Chevy engines from the Canadian Chevrolet Plant and then so was Avanti in the non-Stude years with U.S. assembled engines.
My guess is they weren't considering those vehicles as significant enough competition to be concerned. Chevrolet engines were into any number of cars back then including Checker at some point.
It's also my understanding that other than the very early years there was little to differentiate a Chevrolet V-8 from a Corvette V-8 other than the visible goodies like valve covers, air cleaners and published data. So if the valve covers didn't say Corvette, no issue.
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Had my 83 upgraded a few years back, which should be the same as your 44.
I used an Auburn posi setup. You should also replace the bearings when you do this. I believe I used the bearing repair kit from a 72 Scout II with Dana 44.
Cost without new gears would have been about $550 for the posi and bearing kit. Installation would have been another $150 and I'll bet those numbers are on the low side now.
In my 74, I found a cheap used OEM Dana posi unit on Ebay, rebuilt the thing and installed it with a new bearing kit myself. Did it for the learning experience.
If/When you decide to got the posi route, be sure you specify the gear ratio you will be using as the carrier changes about 3:90 to 1. Probably under $225 this way without new gears.
Bob
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Walter
I suspect that you are probably correct about replacement parts but I would think that there are acceptable alternatives.
Let me suggest that you talk to Dan Booth of Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Michigan. He is a great source of parts as well as information. I know a call may not be cheap but I can't think of a better source than Dan.
Info: Address: 47400 Avante Dr, Wixom, MI 48393
I can visualize the 74 and 83 belts because I have both years and there is nothing about them that I could not find in our aftermarket. They are essentially a generic GM belt. Your's may be different but I'll bet Dan has the solution.If Dan can't help, and I be shocked if he can't, take a picture or two and I'll Google the usual suspects in this country for a match.My guess is they look a lot like these.
Bob -
Why not just buy a new one from Ididit or Flaming River. They make collapse-able units and it would be in great shape as in new.
BTW, nice car looks like a blast. Bob
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I'm not sure there is any electronic activation back in that era. The belts usually locked from inertia when the belt is pulled hard. I think the wiring is for the signal to say they are being used. Newer cars/trucks do have an explosive charge to positively lock the belts when the bags deploy. That's was explained to me by the owner of the local wrecking yard when I asked about buying belts with the 2006 seats I purchased. He said it was, of course, a liability issue with any of them but the newer ones were unusable due to the locking issue.
If you give them a hard pull and they don't engage, I'd replace them.
Just sharing my discussion with the local folks.
Bob
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Finally remembered to take the picture of the front wheel well on my 83. A little hard to see but there is a lip at 90 deg to the fender all the way around the opening. It's about 3/4" or so wide.
If your's is missing you might want to epoxy a metal rod around the inside edge of the opening and then glass that in.
Bob
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My 83 is setting on the hoist for winter. It is original as far as I know. I can post a picture or two if you want to compare yours.
BTW, I agree with the 83 is better comment. My 74 is a kit car assembled a high school class compared to my 83.
Bob
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63R3152 is a documented low mileage original Avanti turquoise color owned at one time by Jim McCuan and sold a couple of years back on Ebay. If the owner could be located it could be scanned for color and the formula compared to the original color mixes to see what it was shot with.
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Mike
IIWM, I'd find a paint store that has the instrument that can match what you have on the car. 46 years can do a lot to the color and there is nothing to suggest that it was painted with the flake size or level that a color number might suggest. We all know that there were vast differences in Avanti finishes.
The instrument can generally get both flake size and type pretty accurately if the operator is decent as well as the color mix.
If you were painting the whole car, I just recommend you use the original color number if you can locate it as matching areas is not important.
Bob
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SI has them listed in their catalog, $48/set of 2.
As an aside, they come apart quite easily. I just dis-assembled mine from the 74 and cleaned the contacts. They now work just fine. Just added a little diaelectric grease to replace the goop left from the original assembly. Just open them slowly on a clean sufrace with something to catch what might fall out.
Bob
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If I can't find any does anybody know of a good 3D printing company that can cut them for me?
I'm not sure about printing but I would suspect that a water jet operation could cut them out of stainless steel and make as many as you want for a decent price once they have the program made. They could either then be chrome plated or just highly polished as desired.
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Sounds like the start of a urine trajectory contest. The front brakes do the majority of the stopping but the rear brakes will do in a pinch as demonstrated by the move to the dual brake setup. Drum brakes themselves do not work in reverse as well as forward but they stop the car when in reverse. The Avanti emergency brakes use the same shoes as the hydraulic system so eventually the car should stop better with the emergency brake engaged than not used at all.
The bottom line, is the rear brakes alone will stop the car eventually but not as well as the complete system in either direction, so IMHO they will impede progress in either direction.
Would I park on a steep hill with only the emergency brake engaged, nope. I'd also have the car in gear. So it's not a true/false issue but a matter of degree.
IAC, better to have the emergency brakes work than not at all.
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A Paxton would be nice, but I don't hear of those lying around anywhere.
Probably hard to find laying around but if one was interested in purchasing one, Paxton/Novi is still around and providing those little devils.
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Wander over to the Racing Studebaker forum and search around. Those folks spend a lot of time extracting more HP from those engines. In the long run, after watching Harbit, et.al., racing at the pure stock drags, I think the blower idea stated above is an excellent suggestion.
It makes up for a lot of short comings of the original design, adds serious HP quickly and will probably develop more HP at less cost than other methods. There has to be a reason Studebaker went to it and cost vs performance would be my suggestion.
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If you mean rear quarter window rubbers, almost impossible as no longer produced. Everything else rubber wise is available from a number of sources. Bumpers are available new from Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Mi but take out a loan. Good used bumpers are hard to find in good shape but if you look long enough they occasionally turn up.
Latch parts again should be available through Nostalgic.
When looking for parts look for Nostalgic, Myers and a few more. Google Avanti parts and some more will turn up. Parts prices seem high but for a very low number production vehicle the prices aren't bad and we're lucky that they are available.
As a last point, keep an eye on Ebay when looking for parts, they show up there occasionally.
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Generally for these type of questions I go to Bob Johnstones site and scout through the year in question of individual Avanti and look at the pictures of those that look original. http://www.studebaker-info.org/AvantiAAV.html
And here also. http://www.theavanti.net/registry.html
And lastly, just Google 1971 Avanti and see what shows up.
Bob
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Sounds like it's found an excellent owner, keep us in the loop.
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Welcome and good for you. My 74 was in bad shape when I bought it. Hopefully the underside of your's is still solid.
Ask us if there's any thing you need help with and post a shot or two if you will.
There are parts available from several suppliers for the car and because of the Chevy/Dana drivetrain parts for them are very available and fairly inexpensive.
Here's the post from Bob Johnstone's site http://www.studebaker-info.org/AVDB2/avantirqb/73qb1984/73qb1984x23102015.html
Bob
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Ok, it's back on the shelf. See you in February
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Good catch, Bill. I'll bring it down if you want to modify it as well as the helper springs. In a day or so, I'll see what it looks like under mine. IAC, Roadhouse it is, we'll see who buys as my brother will be along also I suspect.
Bob
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Im intrested...call me ...386-466-6434 in florida....sounds like it would save a lot of fabrication work ...BILL
Bill
I'm hesitant to do this as Bruce posted first but I think I owe you one from last year. I have a used hitch from my 74 with the helper springs to go with it. They'll cost you lunch when I'm down in February if you can wait that long. If you want the NOS from Bruce, Not a problem.
They're not perfect but I think they should clean up better than they look here.
It is the hitch installed by N&A on the 74 when new, The OP pulled a boat with it.
Bob
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I have had my emergency brake in for service three times and it always seems to work once and then fails. The first two times it worked for reverse but not forward now it works forward and not for reverse. Someone told me the brake cable has to be disconnected then the brake adjusted then the cable re-attached?
Any a device would be appreciated. Thanks
A83
This is what the setup looks like. The cable pulls the lever behind the left shoe that actuates the rear brakes.
I'd disconnect the cables mainly to see if the cables, actually only one continuous cable, is loose in the sleeve. If it is, I'd lubricate it and put it back on the brakes, after checking they are also functioning properly. Once the rear brakes are adjusted with the drums back on the car and the cable is loose in the sleeve, there's little that can interfere with the application of the emergency brake.
With the above done, adjust the hand brake assembly to just take up most of the slack in the cable and try it. It's important not to get the adjustment to tight as the brakes will drag.
Simply put, if everything in the system is loose and functioning properly, the E-brake should work everytime. It's about as simple a system as you could find.
It takes time to tear it apart which is not cheap if you pay someone else but halfway measures will just keep having problems.
Bob
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Just want to add my 2 cents, with a rear mount battery it is a good idea to run a ground direct to the engine as well from the battery. No one enjoys chasing down grounding issues!
Agree totally. When I relocated the battery in the trunk passenger side I connected the ground cable from the battery negative to the body bolt in the trunk then along the frame to the engine compartment. It was connected again to the frame and then to the engine. It is one continuous cable the whole way.
As mentioned, never to good a ground in an Avanti.
Avanti II engine
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
If you are talking about referencing the casting marks on a 66 head, here is a guide to casting marks vs part numbers.
You can look up the numbers on Google and see what he was referring to in application, quality, performance and uniqueness.