Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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1 hour ago, mfg said:
That's it exactly!...He was comparing Avanti's small scale to De Lorean's (then) recent financial trouble!
Well, that took an interesting turn from poor humor to correct answer in a short time.
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How to compete against John DeLorean selling DMC-12's.
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Bill
You peaked my interest as I recall an earlier SDC article on using a early Cavalier R&P unit but your comment about the Omni unit made me look into that one.
This is a post from the Jalopy Journal HAMB that shows using an Intrepid R&P unit along with discussion on the others mentioned. It keeps the long steering arms that may help with steering geometry.
You'll need to pay attention to getting one that's rear steer.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/looking-for-a-short-steering-rack.975355/
FYI, Bob
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I received the Fall/Winter 2017 issue #180 a couple days ago. Let me compliment the editors on the best issue IMHO that has been published. From Loewy to The last Avanti to steering arm removal, the content is exceptional. I'm still reading it and I can't say that about many magazines that I receive.
This is a great example of what a specific brand enthusiasts publication should be like.
Well Done!!
Bob
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You will need to remove the gas line on the bottom of the tank and then remove the 90 deg fitting also. Otherwise, the tank won't move upward. It's a great chance to replace fuel hose with new FI grade stuff. DRAIN THE TANK FIRST. If it's still stuck, it's being held by something sticky which should let go when you gently pry up on the tank with a plastic or wood wedge.
You will need to drain the tank through the Tee under the door, I think drivers side on the Stude issue. You may need to add slight air pressure to the inlet to be sure the gas is out.
When you remove the fitting be sure you are outside as you will have a bit of spillage no matter how well you drain the tank.
I pulled the pipe plug and replaced it with a hose nipple and hose into a plastic gasoline tank to drain the Avanti tank.
OOPS, noticed you drained the tank already.
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Bill
I'm not sure what you plan to use for R&P but there has been a lot of conversation on the SDC Forum about that conversion. Mostly it revolves around "bump Steer" because most R&P units have much shorter arms than the existing steering. One Member, Jerry Forrester, IIRC used a setup from an early 90's Cavalier IIRC again that mounts the steering arms in the center of the rack and not at the ends of the unit.
I'll bet he's the same poster that installed the electric steering referenced above by Jim78.
Just a note to help you as you move forward in the quest. Googling studebaker or Avanti R&P might help if you haven't already decided on your unit.
Bob
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Look at these folks. http://www.leatherique.com/ I sent them a sample of my 83 leather and they matched the color exactly. There other products are also quite good. Be sure you tell them whether it's leather or vinyl. I'm not sure if they do vinyl but if you ask they may know someone. SEM makes great spray vinyl dyes but color choice is limited. I used them on my 74 interior.
Lastly, ask forum member Brad as he'd in the restoration business. http://bezautoalchemy.com/
Bob
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1 hour ago, silverstude said:
The person asking me says just the opposite..... I passed on both links thx
Interesting, because he always calls back the same day unless he's out of town. He might call as late as 8:00 PM but he's always called back. My best advice for your friend is to keep trying.
Good luck, Bob
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I don't think Dan does email. He's very good about returning calls. I don't think his wife is active at the business site but the Ebay idea might bare fruit.
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3 hours ago, mfg said:
Thank you!.............Regarding your first post on this thread;....are you saying that the 'factory 400' camshaft was machined with retarded valve timing?
A fair question but I don't know the answer. The only 74 305 I rebuilt was that way buy not sure about the 400. Google may help if Jack or one of the other folks don't chime in.
Bruce's comments are dead on if you want to get the best performance though. With the 305 and my 383 I talked to several cam manufactures about my needs and came away with good answers. Weiand with the 305 and Voodoo for the 383. You are adding about $200-300 or so for the cam and lifter kit so the cost is building so only you can judge the cost vs performance.
A less expensive option would be to degree the OEM cam and bring it to spec with an adjustable timing set if necessary. Can't speak to the cam performance however.
One last question, you did say overhauled 400 IIRC. Are you sure the rebuilder didn't add upgrades to help the performance as that's very common around here as it usually requires a cam change anyway.
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I think you know this but you'll need the 400 flexplate and harmonic balancer unless the 400 was internally balanced during rebuild. Also check the flywheel teeth count to be sure they are the same or you will need a starter change. IIRC they were 168 and 153 or close.
Just being sure.
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Bruce has given good input but a couple more points. The 700R4 was standard issue in both large cars and trucks for many years. If it's in good nick, I'd just use it as is. In 83 GM and the other guys were beginning to pull themselves out of the MPG abyss that the clean air regs had created but were still a fair bit away from the mileage we enjoy today. I doubt the 400 would give better mileage but teamed with the 400 is might not be to bad depending on the interior configuration of the 400. The 400's era was the worst mileage part of the EPA regs. If your's was rebuilt with non-reg parts: decent compression, non-retarded improved cam and a decent distributor, it may not be terrible.
The thought on engine heat is real but a good system should handle it. a lot of mid-70's Avanti's did.
IAC, replacing one SBC with another SBC, as you know, is pretty straight forward as everything will bolt up. The only thing the 400 needs to run is power to the starter, gas to the carb and voltage to the coil simplistically speaking.
Personally, if I had a rebuilt 400 with decent internals in my pole barn there'd be black streaks from the engine hoist traveling across the floor to install it. I'd also add a decent four barrel if you are still running the CCC carb.
On my 83 the computer control setup was an add-on, standalone system so if you still have that with the CCC, wiring the 400 would just require a different dissy and hot feed to it.
In summary, nothing ventured - nothing gained. Returning to the 305 isn't rocket science.
Good luck -Bob
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I'm not sure why he'd want to build an LS, just find a good one in a yard. For a few thousand, I'll bet much less than he could build a BBC, he'll have 400 honest HP and a great tranny behind it. The computers can be reprogrammed and there are adapters to use the older style SBC mounts for a direct bolt on to the Avanti/SBC mounts. He'll just need to be sure he gets a rear sump oil pan.
That's exactly what I'll do if I want to re-engine one of mine.
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The major problems I can visualize are hood clearance, exhaust manifold interference with the steering and possible crank pulley issues. It won't be difficult to find the dimensions compared to an SBC and the mounts , etc should be the same.
The exhaust ports on the SBC and Stude engines allow for a stock ram horn style manifold to clear the steering. The even spacing of the BBC outlets will make building an exhaust manifold a bit more difficult.
I'll bet it can be made to fit as Olds engines have been installed and they are large also and even wider.
If he decides to go ahead, please keep us informed. Personally, in today's climate, I'd find a 400+ HP LS engine and use it IIWM.
Good luck, Bob
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I don't think SI has any and they haven't made more recently. I'd call them just to be sure. Just dashes does excellent work but expensive. You may want to check around local upholstery shop or ask locally who does old cars. A local body shop does some old cars and used a local upholster. He did my modified 89 dash for less than a third of just dashes.
As long as you don't want pure stock it's an excellent way to go.
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I'm probably over reading this question but if the engine is running, all the sensors that the computer monitors produce a voltage input O2, MAP, TPS among them. Those are all constant output but variable voltage so the computer can compare them and adjust accordingly. So I guess the answer needs to be "sensors"
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11 minutes ago, Avanti83 said:
SBC's are SBC's are SBC's
The only real difference between them is where they're made. If I read the internet correctly Mckinnion was owned by GM and eventually became GM of Canada.
From Nasty Z28
Engine ID Code Example: V0101CLJ - (V = Plant, 01 = Month, 01 = Day, CLJ = Engine Suffix Code)
Another example: T0830CTY - (T = Tonawanda, 08 = August, 30 = 30th day, CTY = 1970 396 Camaro, 375 hp, 11.0:1, TH400)Code Engine Plant Code Engine Plant F Flint (Motor) S Saginaw Service H Hydramatic T Tonawanda K St. Catherines, Ontario V Flint (Engine) (McKinnon Industries Canada) M GM of Mexico -
SBC's are SBC's are SBC's
The only real difference between them is where they're made.
From Nasty Z28
Engine ID Code Example: V0101CLJ - (V = Plant, 01 = Month, 01 = Day, CLJ = Engine Suffix Code)
Another example: T0830CTY - (T = Tonawanda, 08 = August, 30 = 30th day, CTY = 1970 396 Camaro, 375 hp, 11.0:1, TH400)Code Engine Plant Code Engine Plant F Flint (Motor) S Saginaw Service H Hydramatic T Tonawanda K St. Catherines, Ontario V Flint (Engine) (McKinnon Industries Canada) M GM of Mexico -
2 hours ago, DTM1 said:
Thank You- still trying to figure out which chevy engine it has. Can't see the numbers on the back or the front. Exhaust manifold numbers match up to 327. I took it out yesterday and stomped on it - Revved to 7K chirped into 2nd and took off. WOW! The previous owner passed away so info was very limited.
This will give you some reading and info. http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php
Exhaust manifolds are a pretty generic issue on SBC's of the era. Most likely you have the 2" Ram Horns to give steering clearance and they were standard issue on most SBC's regardless of cu. in. The other options were usually just a change in outlet location and 2" outlets.
There were a few years in the 60's when the corvettes ran 2 1/2 in outlets which is what I have on my 83 and 74. It's not easy to tell them apart unless they are side by side.
This is a shot of the 2 1/2 ram horns along with the 2 1/4 in Silvertone exhaust on my 83 for comparison. Somewhere I have a shot of both 2 and 2 1/2 inch manifolds which I'll post if I can find it but the main difference is the outlet size.
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I'm not big on semantics arguments but fuel injection to me is adding fuel through injectors. Gm agrees with that from 57 through current as their systems were all called fuel injection. But limiting it to the 80's and 90's, whether it was TBI or TPI their systems use injectors to atomize fuel into an air stream. TBI through the throat of the throttle body and TPI into the runner of the intake manifold. So unless specified otherwise, most folks think that era's FI is either technology.
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Generally around here, I'll let the blaster suggest what they need to remove the offending material such as paint, rust, undercoating without destroying the substrate. You just need to find the blaster that has a history with cars and not steel tanks.
Where I would worry most about the rust is inside the frame and hog troughs. Whatever gets in there doesn't come out easily I'll bet most rust issues on these cars starts in there.
Our Canadian brethren in the truck world like to use a rustproofing called Krown which I believe is available in England also. You might want to talk to them about doing the inside of the frame and hog troughs.
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I'll guess 1989 as that was the first year GM went to widespread use of it on the V8's, IIRC
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Not sure about being a survivor with $10K worth of paint and $6K worth of interior and new chrome but it is certainly one of the finest of the herd available. I sure wish one like this was available in this price range when I was looking for my first Avanti a number of years back.
Thanks for the post, Bob
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A 7" wheel with a 5" backspacing only leaves 2" showing on the outside of the rim. That's more like a front wheel drive wheel.. About any 7" wheel with 3 to 3.5 in backspacing should fit as long as it has a 4.5 bolt circle. It sounds like your mechanic is turning this into rocket science. Any decent tire store can fix you up with the correct rims.
I'm surprised a 5" backspacing rim will fit as a 4.5" backspace 17" Mustang rim won't fit my 83 nor 74.
LED Tail Lights
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Avanti83
I'll take a shot. You have two options - either the panels sold at avanti.biz or direct replacements for the 1157 bulbs. In either case they would be a direct wireup but you would need to replace the flasher with one used with LED lights.
If you plan to just replace the bulbs, go to Bob Johnstones website as there are some writeups there. I would also strongly suggest that you google led tail light bulb replacement as there are some nuances with bulb construction and color that will make a big difference in how bright your lights will look.
I put a set in my 54K and they are quite bright. Back then I needed to wire in resistors to use the OEM flasher but the new technology flasher should solve that issue.