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Avanti83

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Posts posted by Avanti83

  1. Fuel and spark is where I'd start. If it runs well other than slow acceleration be sure you have the float bowl full and the boost reference to the fuel pump connected. 

    Usually, I start with the distributor. Check to see if you have advance and basic timing. Use a timing light.

    If spark check out it's probably fuel delivery under load, weak pump - air getting into fuel lines or a restriction somewhere in the fuel lines or fuel tank.

    BTW, welcome!!!

  2. As I dig through my photos, I did find some that indicate a pair of holes directly above gas pedal, which I filled.

    I finally found the originals owners son and asked him to see if his dad can recall if it came originally with the console. Hopefully, he's still around as he wasn't in great health a couple of years back.

    2v7bA8E.jpg

  3. 1 hour ago, Gunslinger said:

    According to the information I have, the center pull parking brake stated with RQB2325 in 1976.  In 1975 at RQB2263 they began using a Willys parking brake handle which I presume is a different handle or assembly mounted under the dash but the paperwork isn't clear on that.  

    While company paperwork can always be mistaken I would think anything on an Avanti II outside of those numbers could either have been issued paperwork-wise or modified after the fact. Avanti motors did some strange things and they didn't always get recorded or the documentation is unavailable or yet to be discovered.

    I'd like to get to the bottom of this if possible. Here are a couple of shots of the firewall, I have many more, where did the dash mounted e-brake go through the firewall during these years.

    IDfjPMj.jpg

    IjNRelC.jpg

  4. Skip

     I just went back through my paperwork that I received with RQB-2123 and the delivery date is 10/24/74 in South Bend, In. It looks like yours is the last. Why mine has the newer console will probably remain in doubt but it was returned to South Bend about a year after purchase to have the 400 truck motor replaced with a more car-like 350 which it had when I purchased.

    The console looks like an original install as there is no evidence of an under-dash e-brake being mounted. Probably never know but because mine now has the T-56 6-speed and your's is original, so the last one remains original.

    Bob

  5. Just found the same thing, First time I've seen that data during a search. Looks like Skip and I can discuss which is later, 2127 vs 2123 with the floor console e-brake. Interesting that 2136 has the old console.

    Our discussion started when I found out his didn't have the newer console and mine did. I know mine is factory as I bought it from the OP.

    Mine

    cgQKmPh.jpg

     

  6. I spoke with Skip about this 3 months ago and at that time he said he had heard there was another on with a later number but he was still wondering if 27 wasn't the last as they were modified at the factory and not necessarily in the numerical order.

    I could argue that mine is the last one as it appears to be the only one with the later model console with the e-brake mounted behind the shifter. I'll submit the last one was not necessarily the latest number as they were custom built.

    I'd sure like to see a picture of the one you think is the last including door plate, clutch petal and shifter lever in a single shot.

  7. 2 hours ago, PackardV8 said:

    Welcome, Rick.

    Yes, definitely have all the flexible lines replaced.  When that flex line fails, it's possible to leak a full tank of fuel onto a garage floor right next to a gas water heater.

    jack vines

    Exactly what Jack said. Be sure they use fuel injection grade hose as it is resistant to all the things in gasoline that wan't there years ago.

    Even more importantly, be sure they replace the short flex section of line directly under the fuel tank. They will need to drain the tank but if it fails there's nothing stopping the entire contents of the fuel tank from dumping on the floor. It is connected directly to the bottom of the fuel tank.

  8. Hard to believe no one has registered a pre-80's car there before but you should be fine at the next level. Take a picture of your car and a small summary of the Avanti with you. I had a picture of my 83 which had no title as it was from Vermont and they don't issue them at that age. They did issue a document of sale, however. 

    The gal at the local Michigan DMV loved the car and she was very cooperative in making sure it got titled here.

    BTW, the DMV had rules to cover these issues and she just looked it up.

  9. Check the voltage from the solenoid to starter connection when someone turns the key. If you have voltage, which I think you will, tap the starter lightly with a small hammer or pipe to see if that helps. If that doesn't work, probably bad starter. 

    If no voltage, either bad relay or no voltage to relay. Then check the voltage to the solenoid. 

  10. 6 hours ago, Gunslinger said:

    Bob...

    I really can't say...I never thought about it and the car is gone so I can't go look at it.  I know the kit replaced both the heater control valve and heater core as well as the evaporator in the console but where it gets its cold air feed I can't say.  I'm sure Mike can tell you.  Whatever adaptions he made work very well.  

    Bruce

    Thanks Bruce, I'll run mine as it is and modify if necessary. Bob

  11. 1 hour ago, Gunslinger said:

    Mike Myer at Myer's Studebaker installed a Vintage Air kit in the '70 Avanti I recently sold.  He's installed a number of them in Avantis.  I'm not sure if there's a specific kit for Avantis or whether Mike uses components from available kits to work in the Avanti.  It's a complete integrated unit...not separate heating and cooling and works very well.

    Bruce, A quick question about the Myer's setup, was he able to use the OEM fresh air intake that is fed from the cowl or did he just install the unit and close off the opening. I'm curious because when I looked at all the units from the aftermarket a few years back, they didn't have a provision for using the OEM opening unless I made a custom one to fit the unit.

    I chose to close the opening and make up any air with the vents in the kick panels. Thx, Bob

  12. Talk to Dan Booth @ Nostalgic Motors in Wixom Michigan. He will know what's available for your car and will probably have some suggestions. In my 74, I tore out everything and replaced the entire heating/ac system. The good news is generic systems that fit Chevy engines are widely available and pretty easy to install if you are a decent mechanic and can find the room.

     

  13. 2 hours ago, Gunslinger said:

    Here's what I did for the '70 Avanti I recently sold...this is a pre-cut piece of rubber made for a '78 Corvette that Corvette specialty companies sell.  It works just fine and folds up neatly behind the gas cap door.

     

    An excellent idea. My 83 came with a similar piece installed by the factory. This is a great solution for the earlier models. 

  14. 14 hours ago, PackardV8 said:

    Hi, Bob,

    So you're saying from experience the last Altman Avanti II was the best in quality and materials?  This begs the question of why essentially the same facility, same employees, same basic design, made a better car in 1983 than they did in 1974?  To what do we attribute the difference?

    jack vines

    Jack

    A fair question. My 74 and 83 both came to me with about 95K miles, the 74 was from the family of the original owner whom I spoke to several times before and after I purchased it so I know it to be original. Any service work was done by Dan Booth and I have some copies of his records. I bring this up only to let you know that there was not a third hand that may have altered the car. To be fair, it was a POS when I bought it but that's doesn't affect the discussion below.

    1- Engine mount bolts had torn the frame apart. Nope not a 400 issue as the engine had been replaced with a 350 by NA because as the OP said, I didn't want a damn truck engine in my Avanti. Cause, no washers on the bolts or nuts. Even a lock washer would have helped. Cracks radiated from the corners of the hex.

    2 - To mount the cow catcher, they needed to cut off the front frame rails. They did with a torch and the dingleberrys were still there from the cutting. The cow catcher was just jammed over the cut with no grinding nor paint added.

    3 - Rear package shelf, It never fit right. I tried to use it as a pattern when I built the new one and had to make it larger and trim it in a number of places to get a correct fit.

    4 - Under dash wiring was just a hod podge. Seemed like it was just hanging where ever it was with minimal tie up.

    There are probably more but this is off the top of my head. Are they major issues, Probably not but there is just a feel of lack of attention to detail on the car. Maybe it was a Friday PM build. 

    The 83 had none of these issues. It just felt and looked like there was more attention to detail but AIS above, it was a $33K car compared to the 74. Everything just felt higher quality.

    Your question was what would I consider the best year and it's 83 because it looks like the originals and it has top end quality materials.

    Personally, I'd ashcan any of the front seats and have a new set from a modern car recovered to match but the later Recaro seats were OK.

    The 83 came with a goofy carb setup and ECM controller. If you chose to go another direction and you will, the wiring harness is essentially a stand alone entity and it can be stripped out leaving the original harness intact.

    If you find a screaming deal on an earlier model, there be no reason to not buy it and upgrade it but the answer to your question for the old body style is 1983 is the best.

    Final thought, if you buy one that has the cow catcher, be prepared to do a fair bit of glass work to repair the opening they hacked in the front fascia. The grill was also cut up to fit it and I know two people that have purchased aftermarket grills that were far from satisfied with the fit. It doesn't mean they are all bad but it's why I chose to repair my OEM 74 grill rather then try to find a old one or try an aftermarket. 

    Bob

     

  15. I can only speak of 74 and 83 but the 83 is quality assembly with high end materials. The 74, I consider a kit car assembled by folks that didn't seem to care as much as the folks that did the 83. Materials are also lower quality than the 83. If I wanted to build a cruiser, I find the best 83 with Recaro seats I could find and start there unless you wanted the later style bumpers.

    Of course, the 83 stickered at $33K so it had a head start on the 74. I'd also agree about the sunroof, mine doesn't leak but I don't open it and it reduces headroom. I'm 6'3" with a 32"inseam for comparison and I can't wear a ball cap in mine.

    When I sent Leatherque a sample of leather from the 83 to match colors, they said it was one of the best leather qualities they had seen from that era.

    JMO, Bob

  16. Bill, That's a very generous offer. One area that those era cruise controls were weak was the disconnect switch on the brake pedal assembly. Test it first by pulling up with your toe on the brake pedal before you engage the CC. If it engages, adjust the switch. A bad switch can be tested by applying 12v or an ohm meter and pushing the switch to get contact. 

    I'm not sure if these are the vacuum type but, if so, apply a vacuum to see if the unit is leaking.

    Just a couple things to try while Bill's gift is en-route.

  17. Had the same thing happen a few years back. Went to a local show sponsored by the local Corvette club at a local apple orchard. I was the 126th car to arrive and they parked the 83 next to the admission entrance. Changed my opinion of my fiberglass brethren. I guess they like t-birds and VW's too.

    9Pm2GTp.jpg

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