Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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Look like power door or trunk openers. Probably not for door locks as they only function in one direction. I don't recall what my 83 power trunk opener looks like but I'll check when I pull it out of storage.
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I think Gunslinger and Gary have scoped it out. The Turner conversion can be seen at http://www.turnerbrake.com/ Depending on the age of the conversion the caliper will be GM but there are two different ones. The rotor will be late 50's Ford.
Just Google slick street stuff, I'd post a link but the site is down. It was fine yesterday.
I think the stance looks pretty much 63/64. BTW very nice car.
Bob
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Apparently still around. http://www.paragontemperedglass.com/
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The nuts are bonded onto the fiberglass body. The front are threaded plates in the riser that mounts the front bolts and the same under the floor for the rear mounts. Replacing the front ones requires cutting slots in the riser and adding a plate with a threaded hole and using pop rivets to hold it. The opening can be reglassed.
If the bolts are still in the nuts just drill them out carefully and replace them.
One rear bolt can be reached from underneath but the other in obscured by the hog trough. It could be fixed by a rivet nut but that's not strong enough in my book. I'd probably open the floor enough to get a plate underneath with a threaded hole.
In my 74, I just wasn't happy with the OEM rear mounting points for strength when I upgraded the seats so I used the belt mounting holes in the frame and cross member.
You can see one of the original rear mounting holes just above in the floor. I just glassed over it before I installed the carpet.
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As far as double Din, anything can be made to fit but it is hard for me to visualize how to get one in an Avanti dash without major surgery. If you want the screen size, get a single din with a retractable screen.
As far as speakers, 6X9's will fit in the rear package tray by cutting the appropriate holes if you want to go that way. You could put the front ones in the door panel but I refused to do that on mine. I built plates to mount 6 1/2" speakers to the door posts. They block some air flow but much better than cutting the doors. You could also mount the speakers under the dash firing down or use smaller speakers if you think they block airflow.
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47 minutes ago, Gunslinger said:
I had it wrong...according to the documents I have it was during late 1975 when the change to the parking brake lever was made...at car RQB2263. It was a Willys parking brake lever and at RQB2325 in 1976 they changed to a Corvette lever. Why RQB2123 in 1974 has such a parking brake arrangement I can't explain. Maybe it was a test mule for the new arrangement and Avanti Motors ran the line out of original parts while tooling changes were made and parts were sourced.
I talked to the owner of 2127 which is a later "last?" 4 speed (as mine was a 4 speed) 74 and his has the dash mount e-brake. So for whatever reason 2123 does has a factory installed console e-brake. It maybe the only one but it was factory installed. While 75/76 maybe the changeover 2123 was produced in 74 with a console e-brake.
We know they were all factory customs in one way or another so I'll let it rest at that.
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The bottom line is this 74 was delivered from the factory to the original owner with a console e-brake. I spoke with the original owner when I purchased it from his son and the op said it was purchased directly from Nate Altman new in 74.
The ownership chain is unbroken so do with that data what you will.
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Beg to differ, Not the best picture but notice the strange handle wrapped in plastic in the console of RQB-2123 1974 Avanti. 76 is not correct unless only an unauthorized one escaped two years earlier.
When I pull it the emergency brake engages.
Also the original ad from Ebay for the car. http://www.studebaker-info.org/AVDB2/AvantiRQB/74QB2123/74qb2123x0711.html showing the e-brake handle
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I'll guess 74 (2) because I own one with the console location. Can't miss by more than one year.
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I think that white disc is the cruise control disconnect. As far as the brakes, if you can get under it, look at all the connections and wheel cylinders for signs of fluid. One place folks don't look at often is the boot on the master cylinder. Any dampness anywhere could indicate an issue.
If you have Dot3 fluid, it could be worth the time to flush the system as over time it can adsorb moisture. If Dot5, it could be worth bleeding the system as there is always the chance of a small air bubble in the system.
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Lew - Thanks for all you do to keep this site available. Bob
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You'll still need to install the portion of the mount that provides body/radiator support.
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2 hours ago, Dan Boone said:
Just too much play in the steering. And I have a bellcrank kit that I can install. I was told by a vendor that that part typically needs to be replaced on Avantis. I was wondering if tht would have any impact to install that bellcrank kit to help tighten up the steering. Sorry for the confusion. I have to do these posts on the run, and they don't always come out the way I would like. db
I still think the best way is to still put it up in the air and see where the play is as it could be in any number of places including the steering box. Jack stands will work if a lift is not available. A little movement in several places adds up to a lot of steering movement. You'd need to get it up into the air if you were replacing just the bellcrank.
Now to answer your question. If it's just some slop in the bellcrank I'm not sure you would feel much but the steering arm attaches to the bellcrank with a pinch bolt. If the pinch bolt is loose the you will feel play. It could be a lot. Nothing wrong with replacing it if you have a good one but check the manual as you will need to pull the grease zerk to remove it from the car.
BTW, while you are under there, check the rest of the steering for play.
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Gary
Is this the one. It was just relisted with a BIN on $8K.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Studebaker-Hawk-/323740206634?oid=323729741058
Bob
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A few thought on the other forum. Bob
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Complicated, not so much but I won't lose the 74 to a direct short if something gets cross wise underneath. I like the garden hose idea and personally used 1/2' PVC conduit for the same reason under my 54K.
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As long as you don't mind Chevy powered 74 shots, here you go. Because it's Chevy powered you'll probably want to run everything down the drivers side as the starter is on that side IIRC.
The battery box is installed with a shut off that will have an outside handle when I'm finished and there's a 200 AMP marine fuse located in the power cable also. The wire go through the trunk to the inside of the frame and run down the entire length of the frame separated by about 1 1/2". Where ever the power (Red) cable come close to anything moving I added fuel line to cover the cable to reduce potential abrasion.
When the cables came close to the starter, I ran the red cable directly to the hot terminal on the starter and the ground cable to the engine block. To help grounding I skinned the ground cable and used a metal clamp to secure it and provide a ground to the frame.
Any place you see Zip Ties used, they were for original assembly. All were replaced with metal clamps eventually.
This should give you some ideas.
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If authenticity isn't a factor you might consider moving the battery to the trunk and using your skills to just modify the inner fender to meet your needs. Trunk battery kits are pretty reasonable or just buy the box and appropriate sized cables.
Just modifying or installing a different inner fender won't be enough because IIRC, the change to the smaller battery resulted in glass damage from the weight in that area so you will need to add appropriate reinforcement.
1963R2 also mentioned modifying the hood to accept the support on the other side. I did this modification when I added air struts to my 74 and it is straight forward. You just need a steel plate with two holes threaded 5/16" to accept the strut mount bolts and a pop rivet to hold it in place. It's placed into the hood structure by cutting a slot large enough to slide it in from the inside edge of hood structure. Just replace the piece you cutout and glass, finish and paint the small area.
I can't find my pictures of the plate I made or the cut in the hood but this finished shot should provide some information.
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8 hours ago, super1hawk said:
I bought some mustang wheels for my hawk but they hit the steering link. Do these fit because the avanti has the quick steer links?
Possibly or it could be the wheels. Mustang wheels vary all over the map in Diameter and back spacing. That's why I used the 99-04 Bullitt ones. Here the numbers from my setup on the 74.
Backspacing
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Thanks Ed
Here's some comments on my installation in my 83.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/SOB/sdc46421m.html
Here's some thoughts on my 74.
What you need is a generic 19 X 26 aluminum Chevy V8 radiator and add, any tabs you need to mount it. I either used tabs on the 83 I installed or had a local shop TIG on the mounts for my 74.
Be sure to check the actual dimensions to be sure it fits but you should be able to find them many places. If you need a trans cooler you can find them with them or install a separate one like I did in my 83.
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Can't help with the rechroming shop but CE has new for about $3300. That might be in the rechroming ballpark.
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If all else fails and talking to Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors doesn't get results, I'd be inclined to measure the height and width of the windshield and then cover it with heavy paper and trace the outline. Then I'd head for the closes Pick and Pull and start looking at late 80's to early 90's cars. See what looks close and see if you can find a fit. I'd limit the search to windshields as the rest are tempered glass.
It would be hard to believe Avanti Motors didn't use a standard windshield from a modern vehicle.
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Before you reinstall the wheel, be sure you have the same number of turns in each direction. Otherwise it's not centered no matter what it looks like. Aesthetics shouldn't outweigh correct steering geometry.
Avanti Battery
in 1965-83 Avanti
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Nothing special, It's just like any ground cable you can find at a parts house.
I generally just buy the biggest cable they have and bolt it on. I make my own when it comes to mounting the battery in the trunk but I use soldered connections. The clamp on like you have is very susceptible to corrosion.